Brake Pedal - Power Assist Issue

[7Dust]

I just got back and I have bought a 3/4" impact wrench, a 3/4" to 1" adapter, and a 1 1/2" - 13/16" budd socket. I'm going to get me a set of the correct feeler gauges now and give it helll!

I'm not driving the truck until I get them sorted out but I DID drive it last weekend to the 24 Hours of Lemons in Houston. I got to use the Deuce as the PACE VEHICLE on the track! I was in front of the cars so I didn't need brakes.

Anyhoo, here are some pics of my car and the Deuce. Also another of the Deuce performing Pace Vehicle duty.

 

[Barrman]

My assistant principal was one of the drivers of some car in that race. I will have to ask him if he had the pink #6 and then make fun of him about it.

Glad you got the right tools to have at it.

 

[7Dust]

Hey - the Pink Number 6 is mine!!! I think it was the coolest car there.

I love that car a lot but driving pace laps in the Deuce was the highlight of my weekend! We have a hot tub in the back of the Deuce and filled it with a hose next to one of the garages on Friday. They made us drain it before we could run as pace vehicle tho.

So far Ive got a wheel off and it started raining - my new tools work great. I'm gonna need a bigger compressor for the future tho. The 3/4" gun is hungry for air!

 

[7Dust]

What is the jamnut size for the major adjustment cams on the bottom?

 

[7Dust]

^^^ in case anyone needs to know in the future, they are 1 1/8"

 

[7Dust]

Update:

5 out of 6 wheels - adjustment completed. Just when I was getting good at it, the last three lug nuts wouldn't come off! I'm going to have a tire shop loosen them for me or get a big azz breaker bar (which might be handy to have in the truck if I get a flat).

On 1 of the 5 wheels I adjusted, I could see I had a leaky wheel cylinder and a polluted set of shoes. Guess I'll have to pull the drum for that one soon.

Verdict:

Even though the job isn't completed, I have a pretty good brake pedal now. Next step is to get the last wheels off and finish the adjustment and then shop around for a wheel cylinder and set of shoes.

 

[Barrman]

Wheel cylinder rebuilt kits are less than $5.00 each. OD Iron, Rapco, ABLinn and many other suppliers. New wheel cylinders are in the $25 each range. Way to cheap to drive with one leaking. Fix them all before you drive.

 

[7Dust]

Got the last set of wheels broken loose by a tire man with a 1" impact - even the tire guy had to hammer on the wheel for a while to loosen it up.

I adjusted the final wheel and I have a high pedal that throws you into the windshield if you mash it down.

I put the wheels back on my truck with my 3/4" impact so I can manage them myself next time.

Looks like all I have to do is find the time to work my way back to the single leaky wheel cylinder and polluted pads. I'm pretty sure I'm going to need to buy more tools to get the rear drum off. Geez. What socket sizes am I going to need?

I haven't noticed the level dropping in the master cylinder from a leak so if the wheel cylinder is still leaking after I adjusted the shoes, it must be a really slow one.

 

[RangerDave]

I thank you for your persistence!!! I blew my brakes doing a safety check this spring and have not gotten around to fixing them - got the parts though. But before the problem began, I had the same symptoms you were describing. And yes, I also experienced the same issues of endless searching of threads with hard to find resolutions to problems. But may friendly folks are always willing to point you in the right direction.

 

[Barrman]

You only need a 9/16 to pull drum off once the tires are removed. However, I doubt the drum will come off once the nuts are all removed. It will be stuck to the hub.

OTC part number 1911 is the socket you need to pull the hub off. Which is the better way to go. You get to check your gear oil, outter oil seal, bearings, repack bearings and inner oil seal this way plus your brakes. Much more fun.

 

[7Dust]

I'm not scared.

SO - the nuts that run the circumference of the drum (1 of them holds the inspection plate) are really all that secure the drum to the hub?

I really don't need to check my gear oil. I figure when it stops dripping out of the differential onto the ground its probably time to add some more.

I'm resigned to the fact that the truck is going to leak. So far I have quite a concoction that collects in drips under the truck - motor oil, antifreeze, gear oil... Brake fluid is the first fluid leak I'm going to fix.

 

[Barrman]

Yes, those 12 I think nuts are all that hold the drum on. You really should look through the -20 for the M44 series trucks. It takes you through the brake inspection process and hub removal with pictures and everything.

One important reminder is this. The bearins on a M35 are supposed to be lubed by grease, not the gear oil in the axle. That is why there is a outter oil seal next to the bearings. However, there is a key way for the seal and lock plate to be held on. The manual tells you to put cork in that keyway to keep the oil out. You can use that or silicone if you clean things good first. Either work. Leave that step out and the gear oil will wash the bearings clean of grease. Which will lead to bearing failure.

Just remember that these trucks are easier to work on with amazingly good manuals for free than just about anything produced in this country for the last 60 years. Just a few big heavy parts. If you can work on a normal vehicle, this will be easier, simpler and funner.