brake pedal to the floor

[DanJP2]

I have an M35a2 last week had to change the brake light switch and little fluid came out. topped it off with dot 5 when I was done. Now it seems like the brake pedal isn't firm and i have to push it to the flloor little scary. Drain the 2 air tanks little water came out not much. Brakes are something i don't want to mess with unless it could be an easy fix.

Thanks guys and happy fathers day

 

[OpieNoTool]

You need to bleed the brakes there is a bleeder on the air pack

 

[bguy193]

When you removed the switch you probably introduced some air into the system which is typical whenever you open a brake system. Now you need to bleed the brakes and things should go back to normal.

 

[cattlerepairman]

Brakes are something i don't want to mess with

Dan, you already messed with the brakes as soon as you took that switch out. As the others said - bleed the brakes (while you probably get away with just bleeding the air pack, you really should bleed them all around). On the Deuce, brake bleeding is something every owner should be able to do, simply because it is a maintenance item on many seldom used trucks. Use a pressure bleeder and it is easy and quick.

 

[dw9339]

Hi - Similar situation for me. Just received a deuce and the brake pedal goes straight to the floor. I opened the master reservoir, and added about 10 ounces of DOT 5, put the top back on, and the pedal still goes straight to the floor. In the manual, it mentions pumping the pedal three times, then holding it down to bleed at the wheels. Since I added the fluid, I'm thinking GL drained the system.

My question is: when pumping should I expect the pedal to start getting stiff or will it continue to go to the floor until I bleed the system?

 

[cattlerepairman]

Hi - Similar situation for me. Just received a deuce and the brake pedal goes straight to the floor. I opened the master reservoir, and added about 10 ounces of DOT 5, put the top back on, and the pedal still goes straight to the floor. In the manual, it mentions pumping the pedal three times, then holding it down to bleed at the wheels. Since I added the fluid, I'm thinking GL drained the system.

My question is: when pumping should I expect the pedal to start getting stiff or will it continue to go to the floor until I bleed the system?

No. Adding fluid and pumping does not do it. While you can bleed the old fashioned way (need 2 people) I recommend a pressure bleeder. Plenty of info on this site. Bleed the airpack first, then start at the furthest wheel (right rear rear).

 

[dw9339]

No. Adding fluid and pumping does not do it. While you can bleed the old fashioned way (need 2 people) I recommend a pressure bleeder. Plenty of info on this site. Bleed the airpack first, then start at the furthest wheel (right rear rear).

Ugh, thanks for information. I don't think my wife will allow me to spring for a pressure bleeder right now, so I am thinking about the two-man method. I looked at the rear wheels, and saw the valve on it. But, I couldn't get any of my wrenches to fit. Do I need a socket?

 

[rlwm211]

bleeding brakes

Hi;
The bleeders are tight against the backing plate of the brakes and can be a pain to get to. I loosen mine with a socket and the operate them manually to loosen and tighten in order to bleed them.

As others have pointed out this is something any deuce owner needs to know how to do. It is not rocket science and can be done by anyone who is methodical.

If you are bleeding the brakes the "Old fashioned way" with two people,

REMEMBER TO REFILL THE MASTER AFTER EVERY WHEEL!!!!

The master cylinder does not hold very much fluid to begin with.

Short anecdote: I had my son helping me, and he was 'supposed' to check the master as we went along as he was the one operating the brake pedal. After going around once with no improvement, I checked the master myself, and low and behold, it was empty. I will not elaborate as to what I did to express my "disappointment" with my son.....

Hope this helps...
RL

 

[dw9339]

Refilling the master is not all that simple for me, so maybe I'm missing something. Do I need to take off the hose fitting (which is a pain in itself because there is only maybe 2" of wrench room to work with), unscrew the cylinder lid, add fluid, put the cylinder lid back on, and finally add the hose fitting, which again takes a while. Do I need to wear my patient pants while I work on the breaks?

 

[rlwm211]

I have found the most useful tool for accessing the master cylinder is a 6 inch adjustable crescent wrench. A regular wrench will not swing very well under the floorboard and you will have to take it in little bites to take it off. I found a 6" crescent swings very nicely under the floorboards and clears all the interferring things while you take the cap off.

Loosen the upper breather tube. It is usually 3/8ths. You may have to use a regular 3/8's wrench to get it loose.

The master likely will have a square plug and most likely will be 3/4 inch. Loosen the master fill plug and the breather should swivel on its tube as you loosen the main fill plug. Once it is loose, swing the plug out of the way but make sure you keep the angle it is at the same. That makes starting the threads on the plug easier when you reinstall the plug.

The fill plug will hang very nicely on the breather tube.



Just my two cents

RL

 

[Westex]

One of the best things I ever did was rebuild the master cylinder. It was a pain to remove, but paid off big time because the thing stops on a dime now. You can still get the rebuild kit, including pistons and cups for about 30 bucks in most major cities. Mine (rebuild kit) was purchased in San Antonio.