Brake problem - frozen anchor pins

[frank8003]

Being military and shipyard with access to every "freer upper" inside and outside the system, and working on gettin things apart that others could not, and then finding Kroil.... I find there is only one maybe better.
Get the acetone and ATF and maybe and add 2% DOT 5 or DOT 3 and have at it.
Assure your tools are still as design. Heat is a welders solution, sometimes even works, but all the stuff I have worked on was special and one could not change metallurgy properties. Disallowed in ships and subs and aircraft.

In any case is the original poster problems resolved.

 

[Crazyguyla]

Nope, whole bunch of nope.. lol at least I have more information and options to get these anchor pins free. I want to thank everyone for their contributions. I've used the acetone/ATF mix on frozen pistons. I have three of six pistons free. Probably going to wire brush around the pins before trying to soak the pins again. At least the truck had a full brake job before getting pastured.

 

[rustystud]

That guys test was interesting but not totally scientific. There was no way to determine the amount of "seizure" of each bolt.
All that aside. I've been able to "unseize" stuck engines with different types of "release" agents. Be they "Blaster this" or "Blaster that" . The engines on themselves would not "unseize" themselves so that means the "release agent" used worked.
No other methods was used ie: heat, or hammer or anything else. Simply using an release agent, and letting it sit for a few days (By the way, this guy did not let those bolts sit for a few days to give the agents time to work properly) .

 

[Crazyguyla]

That guys test was interesting but not totally scientific. There was no way to determine the amount of "seizure" of each bolt.
All that aside. I've been able to "unseize" stuck engines with different types of "release" agents. Be they "Blaster this" or "Blaster that" . The engines on themselves would not "unseize" themselves so that means the "release agent" used worked.
No other methods was used ie: heat, or hammer or anything else. Simply using an release agent, and letting it sit for a few days (By the way, this guy did not let those bolts sit for a few days to give the agents time to work properly) .

It's been about a week or so going out, spraying the anchors from both sides, soak then tap. Think I'm going to use two nuts, lock them against each on the anchor, and try using rotational forces to break the anchors loose.

 

[rustystud]

It's been about a week or so going out, spraying the anchors from both sides, soak then tap. Think I'm going to use two nuts, lock them against each on the anchor, and try using rotational forces to break the anchors loose.

With "severe" rust issues you might need to up the game a bit and get a torch on them. Not a small butane torch, but an Oxy-Acetylene torch. Of course I once let an engine sit for three weeks with "penetrant" before it would finally turn. Don't know what your time frame is though.

 

[Ajax MD]

With "severe" rust issues you might need to up the game a bit and get a torch on them. Not a small butane torch, but an Oxy-Acetylene torch. Of course I once let an engine sit for three weeks with "penetrant" before it would finally turn. Don't know what your time frame is though.

Sorry for the thread drift but you obviously have the knowledge-

I'm not a welder. I don't have an oxy-acetylene rig, nor am I likely to get one in the near future. I do have one of those small, two-bottle, oxygen-MAPP gas torches that you can get from Home Despot. MAPP is a little hotter than butane but cooler than acetylene. Do you think that would get hot enough for this sort of thing?

Also, I don't have a really good handle on how to know when I'm applying too much heat and damaging things, changing the properties of the metal. Any advice?

 

[13ronin]

I still think you should try the paraffin wax method. In my personal experience its amazing. I've had 2 in nuts that a 3/4 rattle gun wouldn't remove even after 10 minutes of rattlingHeat it up with a torch hot enough that any oil smokes off... heat around the fastener as much as possible while putting as little direct heat on the fastener as possible. Heat it up enough so that when you apply the wax around the gaps it boils and smokes some. Give it a minute or two to cool a bit then try again. I'm telling you its amazing. Like I said 15 min with a rattle gun for nothing then go grab a rig and wax it and boom. First hit. You can get the wax at the grocery store. Worry a try. And your MAPP oxy kit should produce plenty of heat for that. Just go slow. Add heat a little at a time if your first attempt doesn't work. Too much heat can distort your fastener and either make your problem worse or weaken it so it cannot be reused.

 

[Ajax MD]

I still think you should try the paraffin wax method. In my personal experience its amazing. I've had 2 in nuts that a 3/4 rattle gun wouldn't remove even after 10 minutes of rattlingHeat it up with a torch hot enough that any oil smokes off... heat around the fastener as much as possible while putting as little direct heat on the fastener as possible. Heat it up enough so that when you apply the wax around the gaps it boils and smokes some. Give it a minute or two to cool a bit then try again. I'm telling you its amazing. Like I said 15 min with a rattle gun for nothing then go grab a rig and wax it and boom. First hit. You can get the wax at the grocery store. Worry a try. And your MAPP oxy kit should produce plenty of heat for that. Just go slow. Add heat a little at a time if your first attempt doesn't work. Too much heat can distort your fastener and either make your problem worse or weaken it so it cannot be reused.

Scrounger recently told me about the paraffin wax method in case I happen to snap off a fastener. I'd never heard of this before. Since you're the second person to sing its praises, I will certainly give it a shot if I find myself with stuck or broken fasteners.

 

[Bulldogger]

View attachment 753300

I got out my can of Kroil oil and it is actually called "Aero Kroil" from KANOLABS.

My Aero Kroil is just plain Kroil now, for smoe reason the cans always lose pressure well before they run out of juice... Maybe it was just the lot my can was in. I've been meaning to get a pump bottle for it, but am worried it will eat through anything I use...

BDGR

 

[frank8003]

"But I am worried it will eat through anything I use..."
One may put in any regular spray plastic bottle. Good stuff.

Here is MSDS
View attachment KroilLiquid2013.pdf

According to the MSDS for Kroil:
1.) Crude oil (Petroleum Base Oil )
2.) Naptha
3.) Mineral Spirits (Aliphatic Petroleum Distillate)

 

[rustystud]

Scrounger recently told me about the paraffin wax method in case I happen to snap off a fastener. I'd never heard of this before. Since you're the second person to sing its praises, I will certainly give it a shot if I find myself with stuck or broken fasteners.

Yes the "wax" method works, just make sure it is hot enough for the wax to flow all the way down the bolt (or anchor) .

 

[Tracer]

I've been using PB Blaster, and it's loosened up some nasty rusted hardware. I also agree heat should be applied, and with an oxy acetylene torch.

 

[Crazyguyla]

I haven't been able to get the pins loose yet. I'm going to finish inspecting the rest of the brake assemblies and see if all the pins are frozen and work from there. I have to replace all the wheel cylinders too. I will update soon.

 

[davidb56]

If anyone here is worried, or wondering if they under/over heat something, the local welding store should sell a "crayon" called Tempistick. They have different melting ranges to choose from. Draw a line on the metal and if it melts, then its reached that desired temp, if not, apply more heat. most common is 250-300F, but they have other temp ranges available.

 

[tobyS]

I haven't been able to get the pins loose yet. I'm going to finish inspecting the rest of the brake assemblies and see if all the pins are frozen and work from there. I have to replace all the wheel cylinders too. I will update soon.

I have some of the wheel cylinders but they have the wrong pistons in them. Do you already have your cylinders? I would like the pistons from your old ones if they are salvageable. I'm not going to use them for my truck, I'm going to 1 1/2" but I would have complete cylinders if I locate the pistons.