Breaker Panel Location M35A2

[saddamsnightmare]

November 24th, 2009.

Gentlemen:

I know that the M35A2 is supposed to have a breaker panel behind the dashboard on the firewall. "Saddam's Nightmare" is a 1971 Kaiser Jeep M35A2
standard cargo deuce, and either the panel is much different or smaller then a standard pickup panel, but I have yet to locate it.....
AND it's not on the forward side of the firewall either....????? No Cab heater so I don't have to look around that, but it's just not leaping out at me....!

The other thing I am looking for is a convoy beacon mast unit for the M35A2 as I may be doing a lot of over the road driving shortly, and I'd feel better with a working beacon. A wiring diagram for either one or two beacon circuit would be appreciated, particularly as to which circuit breaker to tap.

Thanks again,

Sincerely,

Kyle F. McGrogan

 

[WillWagner]

Hey Kyle,
I don't think there is a panel like in your car. It should be just the CB on the firewall.

 

[saddamsnightmare]

November 24th, 2009.

Thanks Will:

I guess I onlty have one then, from what I can see. Now I have to figure out how to tap in the heater when I get one, and the convoy light when I mount it, as it has a 1 to 2 wire splitter included with it. By comparison, the Swiss S404.114 Unimogs have about 10 different circuit breakers on their panel under the hood, with space for more. I also have to figure out how to reset that beasty. If you're going over to the deuce junk yard any time soon, keep an eye out for an auxilliary panel toggle switch for the deuce, as I will need one for the convoy light and Saturn wants between $18-20 for one. Normally I wouldn't kick, but right now I am between jobs in N.E.Texas and not sure if I qualify for unemployment. This is probably the worst state to be unemployed or poor in, as they have little use for either type of people. I'm also looking for a convoy beacon light mast for the M35A2, or drawings of one, as I plan to be doing considerable over the road hauling with her, and a convoy light might just keep me from getting run over.

Thanks again for the many kindnesses, and have a Happy Thanksgiving and a safe Holiday Season with the Wagner family & friends,

Cheers,

Kyle F. McGrogan

At least I'm not stuck in Britian or Ruissia or where that !@#$$^$%# was that hijacked my E-Mail address! I'm wishing him a warm holiday in a very hot spot!

 

[Ferroequinologist]

There is only a couple of breakers on a stock M35. On is under the hood on the firewall directly in front of the driver. The others are in the light switch itself.

They will reset when they cool down. I was driving one night right after I put the convoy light kit on my truck, and every so often I would loose all the lights. Then they would come back on a few minutes later. The convoy lights were originally supposed to be fed from the headlight circuit, but either my switch's breaker was weak or the set drew too much power. I put a seperate 20amp breaker on the firewall right next to the other one.

 

[WillWagner]

I think the CAD drawing is here,

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/3843-peter-bogs-cad-deuce-schematic.html

 

[Jake0147]

Modern stuff has fuse boxes and breaker panels. Fire prevention is good. Deuces have one step better, You can burn one to the ground and still drive it home with a push start.

One breaker on the engine side of the firewall.
One breaker contained within the light switch.
One fuse at the fuel pump.
That's all they give you.

 

[saddamsnightmare]

November 25th, 2009.

Thanks WillWagner, Ferro, and Jake0147:

I noticed the breaker on the firewall in front of the driver (engine side), but as there was no evidence of a reset button, I figured I had the wrong item. The Swiss S404.114 Unimogs have about 10 breakers on their panels, all with a reset button. So Uncle opted for thermal resets? My headlight switch was replaced with one of the more modern push button units, with no problems there in a year or more of service. I guess when I put the convoy light(s) on her I am gonna have to fit another breaker to the front of the firewall to cover that circuit. Do the hot water cab heaters get tapped off the same breaker on the firewall? I'll look the diagram up in the 2o & 30 manual, but I figure someone has a deuce with a hot water heater.

Ferro, how goes it in SC, if I remember right, you are the engineer for one of the regionals? I was gonna put in for a USNavy 5737 Locomotive engineer at Crane,Ind, but they had open only to present Gov't employees, not returnees like myself.

Say what we will about the deuces, they do seem to be forgiving beasts in their design, I was talking to a US Army Reserve guy the other day at Home Depot, and he said he would much rather have the deuces back versus the FMTV's, as the latter trucks aren't as resilient.

Have a Happy and safe Thanksgiving and Holiday season,

Thanks,

Cheers,

Kyle F. McGrogan

 

[stumps]

The M35 has only a couple of standard breakers (firewall, and light switch)... It frequently will have others salted around wherever the "kit" said they should go. One favorite place is just above the right rear corner of the battery box, nestled in the frame sheet metal of the body tub.. All of the breakers are of the self resetting thermal variety.

-Chuck

 

[Heavysteven]

Stumps,
So if my heater blower is not working there is no way of just reseting the circuit? Next step would be to verify it's getting power I guess.

 

[kc5mzd]

I have a truck that came with a convoy light. They just ran a wire to the battery to get power.

 

[stumps]

Stumps,
So if my heater blower is not working there is no way of just reseting the circuit? Next step would be to verify it's getting power I guess.

If your heater blower isn't working, it is most likely the heater motor, not the breaker. The breaker will reset itself after a few minutes.

My heater blower worked when I first got my deuce, but during the trip home, it stopped. I found that the internal ground connection in the motor had become open circuit. I took the motor apart and found that it was built stupidly. The internal ground lug for the motor's field winding was attached to one of the bolts, that hold the two motor shell halves together, by a plastic piece, and a nut. The nut loosened, and the ground connection was then intermittent.

Now comes the really stupid part: The internal laminations that form the field were not riveted together, so the stack was loose. The only thing holding it together was the tape that protected the field winding, and the one bolt that had the ground connection. That allowed the stack to fan out on the unfastened side, and made it nearly impossible to remove the motor end caps without damage. Plus, the shaft end was enlarged slightly from the factory hitting it with a hammer to seat the bearings. It was too large to pass through the bronze sleeve bearing on the shaft end.

So, first verify that power is getting to the motor. You can do that by separating the rubber connector on the motor's lead. When you find that power is there, remove your motor from the heater box. You will have to remove the blower squirrel cage before the motor will come out of the heater box.

Next take a file and make sure that the last 1/4 inch of the motor shaft is really 1/4 inch, and not made larger by a hammer blow.

Remove the nuts that hold the bolts that fasten the shaft side end bell. One bolt will be removable, the other won't. Remove the shaft side end bell. Don't let the shaft come out, or you will break your brushes, and the plastic oil slinger that protects the commutator from bearing oil. You might need to stick a punch, or something into the hole in the front end bell (where the bolt was removed), to compress the field laminations...

Tighten the nut that holds the ground lug to the bolt you couldn't remove, and replace the bolt you could remove. Put a nut and lock washer on that bolt to squeeze the field laminations back together. It should have been there from the manufacturer.

Replace the shaft side end bell, put the nuts back on, and then take a plastic hammer, and wack the shaft sideways from a couple of different directions. This will align the sleeve bearings so that the motor spins freely.

Test the motor, it should work now.

-Chuck

 

[jimm1009]

I would advise anyone finding a wire without protection to add it. A wire that has not protection via fuse or circuit breaker can catch stuff on fire and / or melt the wire into another wire or wires and really screw stuff up.
A generic in-line fuse holder can be purchased at 98% of all auto parts supply houses. A smiple multi-meter can tell you about the amperage required for surge and normal running of the unit.
Protect yourself with a fuse and you will be happy.

jimm1009

 

[aspann]

Newbee here. When I got my M35A2 the horn and heater didn't work. It was the ckt. breaker behind the dash. It wouldn't reset. I even put it in the freezer and checked it. Still bad. Anyone know the current rating of these breakers. According to the TM mine has two ckt. breakers and they are the same. Does anyone know where I can get a ckt. breader?

 

[Ferroequinologist]

Try Saturn surplus, they have them in several amp ratings.

 

[aspann]

Thanks alot Ferro. Good luck on your Alaska trip.

 

[steelandcanvas]

I might be a little late, but here is the link for your circuit breakers:
Saturn Surplus

 

[aspann]

Thanks Steelandcanvas

 

[steelandcanvas]

Thanks Steelandcanvas

My pleasure!