breaking free stuck lug nuts

[SierraHotel]

The brandy went in the concoction. The drinking came after I was done (Captain Morgans, not the concoction). The information I got was as follows:

"Transmission fluid is a complex lithium soap. The Lithium allows the iron to react with the carbonyl groups in the acetone and soap. Without the lithium it won't react. The reaction is catalytic in nature, so once the carbonyls are gone or hindered from reacting, the reaction stops. The addition of alcohol helps because it absorbs water directly from the reaction and acts as an emulsifier in your transmission fluid-acetone mix. It effectively makes it a transmission fluid, acetone lotion."

Is it correct? Beats me, I'm no chemist. But I can tell you that it did work where nothing else did. The PB Blaster and WD40 Rust Specialist had been on there for two days (multiple applications) and all got a healthy dose of impact to try to get them down the threads. Nothing. Once the concoction was added, they came free...resistant, but they came free.

Yeah, I checked for the L and R...oh, um...about 20 times. I even tried tightening them in an effort to break the rust. I also pondered about 20 times if the L or R was correct and then started doubting I was going in the correct direction (sigh).

As for "scientific methods", I did spray half the lug nuts on each wheel with PB Blaster and the other half with WD40 Rust Specialist. I wanted to see if the WD40 was worth anything...no dice with either one, so I really don't know. By the time I got to the acetone/transmission fluid concoction, all thoughts of experimenting were gone, I just want the **** things off the wheels. I'd love to have an oxy/acetylene set up, a heavy duty professional torque multiplier, 1" impact gun (and the mega compressor to go with it), and about a billion other things...but sadly I am not independently wealthy, so I do the best I can with what I've got. Yep, its a $60 cheap Chinese torque multiplier...I figure I'll never need it again, but the $60 is cheap insurance to make sure I don't need it again.

The point of the original post was to share my experience with 12 very tough nuts, which hopefully will assist someone else down the road. Since I did not see any other posts about the concoction I used, I figured I'd share, rather than keep the secret to my self. Is it brilliant or bull****? Got me, I only know it worked for me.

 

[NormB]

SH, I am glad it worked out for you. I notice you only put one shot of French Brandy into the mixture. You drank the rest, right? I was worried, reading your story, that the resume would be that you forgot about tight hand/left hand threads! Phew!
I use the military lug nut remover (the two-tube contraption) and it always surprises me with how much torque that thing can muster.

Schaefer Manufacturing Penetro90.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JF2LI2...Nw&pd_rd_i=B00JF2LI28&hsa_cr_id=8130685170201


Neighbor of mine in Tennessee swears by Schaeffer products. He buys 'em by the case. He also leaves all his farm implements, tractors, tools out in the elements most of the time where things rust, corrode, nearly fuse. Not judging, just reporting.

He swung by last time I was down and gave me a can of this stuff which I've since had opportunity to use.

I've done the Kroil, the WD40 (which I keep around to hose down exposed chrome on shocks, hydraulics on my tractor, etc., NEVER for a lubricant), PB blaster, other "break free" products, as well as torch (small Bernzomatic oxyacetylene torch I bought about 20 years ago for $50 has been a godsend for plumbing, freeing up frozen studs, occasional brazing of parts on guns and such, even used it to get a drain plug out of my front differential on my HMMWV as it wasn't budging), impact tools, chisels, even, and this is fun, dremel fiber-reinforced cutoff wheels. Get just enough of a cut on either side of a frozen wheel stud nut, pound a chisel into the gap and it opens a hair, enough for more kroil to get inside, makes removal easier.

A plumber's wrench helps too (gets tighter as you add torque, and always keep a 4 foot length of pipe around for a force multiplier (I've built a dozen FN-FALs in years past using this method with a simple breaker bar to get the nearly 300 lbs torque onto the barrel threads and line things up).

I bought an M1102 last week, got a really good look at it before buying. It'd spent some time outside as they all have/do, so before even starting into it, based on experience with the nuts on my HMMWV and other vehicles, I just sprayed each nut with Schaeffer's.

Stuff works. Had no problems pulling nuts. DID chase threads on wheel studs (same on HMMWV) with a die, assembled with moly lube, 110 lbs torque. Do need to hose off threads with brake cleaner and hit them with some self-etching primer so I don't have the same issue down the road.

As with all such suggestions - and there are many - YMMV.

 

[frank8003]

I wrote a nice story with my concerns but the computer ate it.
I will just put pictures for the General.
Yes I did use a torque wrench to reland them.
To get them off I used 10 feet of heavy wall pipe on my Ken Tool.


And all my tools go on an auction site on Friday for sale.

 

[dmetalmiki]

IHe basically was on his knees, picked the wheel up and put in on axle and balanced it on his thighs. BOOM, it went right on. I tried it and it works great.

do not understand this one..So what if you are not a weight lifter? and, When Kneeling,(impossible contortion) You can not place a 20" wheel and tire on your thighs, and 'pop' the assembly on the axle with bad knees, bad back, and AVERAGE old age strength. I have tried to visualise the positions required..No can do. Unless someone posts an actual video of the moves. my 1/2 penne'th.

 

[rustystud]

The brandy went in the concoction. The drinking came after I was done (Captain Morgans, not the concoction). The information I got was as follows:

"Transmission fluid is a complex lithium soap. The Lithium allows the iron to react with the carbonyl groups in the acetone and soap. Without the lithium it won't react. The reaction is catalytic in nature, so once the carbonyls are gone or hindered from reacting, the reaction stops. The addition of alcohol helps because it absorbs water directly from the reaction and acts as an emulsifier in your transmission fluid-acetone mix. It effectively makes it a transmission fluid, acetone lotion."

Is it correct? Beats me, I'm no chemist. But I can tell you that it did work where nothing else did. The PB Blaster and WD40 Rust Specialist had been on there for two days (multiple applications) and all got a healthy dose of impact to try to get them down the threads. Nothing. Once the concoction was added, they came free...resistant, but they came free.

Yeah, I checked for the L and R...oh, um...about 20 times. I even tried tightening them in an effort to break the rust. I also pondered about 20 times if the L or R was correct and then started doubting I was going in the correct direction (sigh).

As for "scientific methods", I did spray half the lug nuts on each wheel with PB Blaster and the other half with WD40 Rust Specialist. I wanted to see if the WD40 was worth anything...no dice with either one, so I really don't know. By the time I got to the acetone/transmission fluid concoction, all thoughts of experimenting were gone, I just want the **** things off the wheels. I'd love to have an oxy/acetylene set up, a heavy duty professional torque multiplier, 1" impact gun (and the mega compressor to go with it), and about a billion other things...but sadly I am not independently wealthy, so I do the best I can with what I've got. Yep, its a $60 cheap Chinese torque multiplier...I figure I'll never need it again, but the $60 is cheap insurance to make sure I don't need it again.

The point of the original post was to share my experience with 12 very tough nuts, which hopefully will assist someone else down the road. Since I did not see any other posts about the concoction I used, I figured I'd share, rather than keep the secret to my self. Is it brilliant or bull****? Got me, I only know it worked for me.

You don't need to be "independently wealthy" to have good tools. Yes I bought most of mine since I was a heavy equipment mechanic for 45 years, but I see good tools on "craigslist" and "eBay" all the time for pennies on the dollar. Old mechanics like myself selling their tools after they retire. You can find "screaming" deals all day long. What I was trying to impart to you is the need for these tools if you plan on maintaining your truck. Unless you plan on having a shop do the work for you.
Without the proper tools you will just damage the truck or more likely damage yourself. Either way is not good. You where able to save money to buy the truck, now save some money to buy the tools.

 

[aleigh]

For whatever it's worth, my LMTV caused me to buy a Miluakee M18 and I can't say enough good things about it. 1100 lb/ft removal, impact. Looks just like a cordless drill and people laugh when you get it out, "that thing?", but it's been my experience that whatever the fastener is condition is, it backs it off, including some seriously rusted steel wheels. I'm able to mount a couple of tires on wheels (all the bolts around the outside), both dissasemble and assemble, on a single charge. I keep it in the truck to get the tires off if I have to change a tire. TBH it's kind of like a forklift - never thought to buy one but now can't do without it. I don't even get out my air impact guns anymore.

 

[rustystud]

For whatever it's worth, my LMTV caused me to buy a Miluakee M18 and I can't say enough good things about it. 1100 lb/ft removal, impact. Looks just like a cordless drill and people laugh when you get it out, "that thing?", but it's been my experience that whatever the fastener is condition is, it backs it off, including some seriously rusted steel wheels. I'm able to mount a couple of tires on wheels (all the bolts around the outside), both dissasemble and assemble, on a single charge. I keep it in the truck to get the tires off if I have to change a tire. TBH it's kind of like a forklift - never thought to buy one but now can't do without it. I don't even get out my air impact guns anymore.

I've been planning on buying the new Milwaukee 3/4" drive impact myself. It has the latest designed motor producing the highest torque on the market right now. It's a little pricey, especially now being on a "fixed" income, but I'll save up for it.

 

[aleigh]

And here it is in use...

 

[frank8003]

Is this that one? No air no wires! No problems.
M18 FUEL™ 1/2" High Torque Impact Wrench with Friction Ring (Bare Tool) (2763-20)
Please elaborate with actual tool identification.

For whatever it's worth, my LMTV caused me to buy a Miluakee M18 and I can't say enough good things about it. 1100 lb/ft removal, impact. Looks just like a cordless drill and people laugh when you get it out, "that thing?", but it's been my experience that whatever the fastener is condition is, it backs it off, including some seriously rusted steel wheels. I'm able to mount a couple of tires on wheels (all the bolts around the outside), both dissasemble and assemble, on a single charge. I keep it in the truck to get the tires off if I have to change a tire. TBH it's kind of like a forklift - never thought to buy one but now can't do without it. I don't even get out my air impact guns anymore.

 

[aleigh]

Yeah, so what I personally own is "M18 FUEL 18-Volt Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 1/2 in. High Torque Impact Wrench with Friction Ring Kit". It's the tool, couple batteries, charger, case. $429 right now at a certain orange home improvement company, no idea if that's the best price around. Part #2763-22.

The nuts come off so hot sometimes you can't hold them in your bare hands!

 

[silverstate55]

Yeah, so what I personally own is "M18 FUEL 18-Volt Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 1/2 in. High Torque Impact Wrench with Friction Ring Kit". It's the tool, couple batteries, charger, case. $429 right now at a certain orange home improvement company, no idea if that's the best price around. Part #2763-22.

The nuts come off so hot sometimes you can't hold them in your bare hands!

I bought this very set last year during Black Friday online specials from Acme Tools, I use it like crazy. I've also bought additional batteries from Acme, as well as other cordless Milwaukee tools that use same battery....I highly recommend them (free shipping) for those who don't have access to brick-and-mortar stores to purchase these tools from.

I've only encountered a few nuts that wouldn't break free with this tool; those were barely able to spin off with my 1-inch impact gun (with a 60-gallon compressor and 150-psi for proper volume).

Bottom line, I recommend this tool. I also store it in the carrying case with various deep-well impact sockets that match truck & trailer lug nut sizes for whatever vehicle combo I'm operating, as it makes short work to change a flat on the side of the road.

 

[frank8003]

10 feet of pipe on a Ken Tool and the labor when financially starved had to work for me, and it did.
I recommend those tools, never having used one, but sounds really nice, like if I got done with that job then I could fix something else.

 

[rustystud]

10 feet of pipe on a Ken Tool and the labor when financially starved had to work for me, and it did.
I recommend those tools, never having used one, but sounds really nice, like if I got done with that job then I could fix something else.

When I was still young and full of vigor, I would have just used a large pipe extension also. Now I'm old and tired and need lots of naps ! So the nice electric tool can do all that hard work for me !

Oh. I forgot to tell you Frank. The steering gear came. Thank you !

Doghead had edited my post so I put it back to it's more original meaning.

 

[SP5]

I'am on a forum where the main subject is the restoration of old/ancient woodworking machinery. As many of those 50>100 year old tools are pretty well frozen-up with rusted fasteners/shafts, that becomes a big issue.
Everybody there swears by the acetone/atf mix as being superior to any of the store-bought, (and expensive,) stuff.
I've only tried it a few times, but it worked,, and it's cheap.

 

[CMPPhil]

Hi

Agree completely on acetone/ATF as being the best rust breaker, add vibration and time. With wheel lugs and rim bolts that don't yield to impact wrench, I soak them with the witches brew turn down the impact wrench vibrate the nut soak down the nuts again and walk away for day. Come back in the morning turn up the impact wrench and have at again. Will admit that some times this process needs to be repeated for several days.

Cheers Phil

 

[rustystud]

I'am on a forum where the main subject is the restoration of old/ancient woodworking machinery. As many of those 50>100 year old tools are pretty well frozen-up with rusted fasteners/shafts, that becomes a big issue.
Everybody there swears by the acetone/atf mix as being superior to any of the store-bought, (and expensive,) stuff.
I've only tried it a few times, but it worked,, and it's cheap.

You don't add the alcohol ?

 

[SP5]

You don't add the alcohol ?

No, for the times I used it, I only needed a small amount, and didn't have any alcohol on hand. If you want to add alcohol to the mix you should use 100%, (200 proof,) stuff if you can.

 

[Robo McDuff]

Milwaukee just released the 2767-22, a wee bit better than the 2763. Unfortunately, they don't deliver it yet in Europe, so I have to do with our version of the 2763 (nought it last months). Tried it out on the nuts of the bumper and winch, which are even more rusted in place and painted over as wheel nuts. It took a bit of effort, but until now every nut was loose within a few minutes.

Getting older as well, and not so enthusiast anymore about jumping on top of 6-feet steel pipes to break nuts loose, this tool is the ultimate for the single-working soldier A close to or well beyond the "use before" date.

 

[Floridianson]

The new 2767 if you read right up about them they say if rusted or bad corrosion you might still need to get out the air powered bad boys. Looks nice but for 400 bucks I will fire up the compressor when at home or if just one tire in the field I will use my truck four way and the cheater bar.

 

[rustystud]

The new 2767 if you read right up about them they say if rusted or bad corrosion you might still need to get out the air powered bad boys. Looks nice but for 400 bucks I will fire up the compressor when at home or if just one tire in the field I will use my truck four way and the cheater bar.

Yeah at home I would just use the compressor since I have a very nice 1" impact that will take any nut off or break the stud. On the road I have the military breaker and a "Tank track" torque multiplier that will go up to 5,000 ft Ibs. If that doesn't break it loose I'm leaving it !