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Excellent, thanks! Sounds just like what I did a few years back when I had to get an old Cat D-4 running. I may be getting ahead of myself here because I haven't checked to see if the engine is free. But, if it is, I'll try it.FWIW, my M543A2 had sat for over a decade. I simply tossed in new batteries. Turned the switch on (but didn't turn my hand loose) looked for smoke, saw none. Got out, opened the bleeder screw on the primary filter, got fuel there (Nasty fuel I might add). Then moved up top and purged air on the secondary filters. Then I cracked the injector lines and bumped the starter a few times. Got fuel there too. Tightened the lines back down. Then went in to bump the magic button again. It roared to life.
I did have brake issues, and the turbo was rusted siezed up. But a cleaning up of the turbo and some brake work has it rolling again.
No snakes. Just wolves and grizzly bears . . .Wow, hope there were no snakes.
Paint is white. The other trucks I'm working on (M220 and Boyce Reman threads in Early Deuce) came from Boyce Equip in Utah. Haven't determined yet where this one came from, but Boyce is a good guess. Seems that a lot of trucks came into this area from them.Looks like a heck of a project, but not really that far gone!
What color is that paint? It seems done correctly as the dash date plates are on the outside of the paint, but in my limited(very) experience on here I havent seen that color yet.
Excellent, thanks for the tip. I've been doing some homework on bleeding the system and it looks like it's a bit more complicated than just cracking open a few lines. I can see I've got some more learning to do. The CD sounds like a good resource.Give it a chance with fresh fuel and a bleed as suggested, and don't forget to clean the air inlet path; could be critters living in there after all these years, too. Wouldn't crank it until checking the sludge in the crankcase, too. Hopefully you'll have good luck with it.
Military Vehicles Magazine has a CD called 'Military Vehicle Restoration', which has articles like 'Calling up MV Zombies' by Steve Turchet and many others. Being new to the game of MVs, you might find it a useful read.
Wow, hope there were no snakes.
Hate mice, da#$ old car/truck wreckers! We don't worry too much about rust out here, but the mice can do some serious damage. Love snakes!Snakes are good, they eat the mice!![]()
Wow, excellent! Copied into word doc and it's going in the truck log.this might help
Lights
The numbers are standard, even NAPA knows them:
Running lights - 623
Dash - 1829 (1873 or 1860 are brighter)
Turn signals - 1683
blackout lights - 1251
You can use the blackout lights as running lights in a pinch...pretty dim.
You can also use the running lights, or blackout lights as turn signals in a pinch.
FUEL FILTERS
Primary = NAPA Gold # 3511
Secondary & Final = NAPA Gold # 3512 need 2ea
The wix numbers are the same as NAPA with a extra number in front.
33512 need 2ea and 33511.
I found the wix primary fuel filter was a bad fit but it has worked well so it’s not all bad.
OIL FILTERS
Wix# 51133 need 2ea
NAPA# 1133 need 2ea
Radiator hose lower:
Gates/Carquest, # 20611.
Dayco# 70689
NAPA# 7423
Excellent reply, that's what I needed.TM 9-2320-361-20 has what you're after.
Section 3-28 is primary filter maintenance
Section 3-29 is secondary and final filter maintenance.
Someone else will have to chime in about sources but I believe they are available from numerous sources.
(I'm pretty sure when I got mine, I got them from Troy: Contact Us )