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Broken budd nut

V8srfun

Well-known member
417
524
93
Location
Altoona pa
So I broke a budd nut while removing the wheels off the rear axles. I am not totally sure that I understand why it broke but at this point I guess it doesn’t matter why. At first I tried to save the stud by drilling the budd and then I was going to attempt to split it in half. This idea was a major failure and I ended up destroying a couple drill bits doing this. Now I am not play any more and just decided to drill the stud until it was really thin and break it with the sledgehammer. I should have just done this to begin with it went quick and was totally effective. 6C1ACA85-4E96-40B0-ACF0-73550F19F383.jpeg
D41307B4-08E7-4918-B446-AAA17B6F3178.jpeg
6C507CDC-E457-4CC1-8548-3464A6D9453A.jpeg

5E7BE4B3-1FB7-4521-9362-538800908F25.jpeg
 

V8srfun

Well-known member
417
524
93
Location
Altoona pa
next time heat it with a cutting torch and then put a pipe wrench on it.
Thanks I would have tried that but no cutting torch in my garage yet. That is a tool that is on the list of want to buy but can’t justify the cost at this time.
 

NY Tom

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
510
761
93
Location
Riverhead, NY
It's possible a regular propane torch or MAPP gas bottle job would be enough. Not expensive but handy.

Overpriced link at Grainger here. If you had already tried it with one of these please disregard.
 

V8srfun

Well-known member
417
524
93
Location
Altoona pa
Honestly it was so tight that I don’t think it would’ve been possible to get a firm enough grip on it. Even with the heat wrench I just don’t see how I could’ve gripped it well enough to turn it. In this situation I honestly believe that drilling the stud was my only option. If you look at the pictures it was a fresh clean break. I think it was over tightened with a large impact and when I went to remove it with my hand crank torque multiplier it just could not handle the load.
 
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