Broken starter bolt, with a twist...

[Gradient]

I've spent some time reading through the threads on how to extract a broken bolt, all of which have been helpful (learned some tricks).

However, I believe my situation is unique in that the previous owner used RED LOCTITE on the bolts because they kept falling out and he didn't know about the support bracket. I bought the truck knowing full well that this was the case and am now trying to remove this darned thing.

The bolt sheared off right above the threads on the knurled section, as recommend I used a milling bit to flatten the surface for a center punch. I used a transfer punch set to mark the center and began drilling, however it did not center exactly and I didn't realize it until it was too late. From what I can tell, I am dangerously close to the threads on the block but I did manage to hollow out the bolt (as far as I can tell) and get a cone style extractor in (I may get the straight extractor set recommended in another thread if this doesn't work).

My questions:

• It's not budging and I'm thinking of using a torch on the block to help. Thoughts?
• If this fails where do I go from here? Drill it out an helicoil? How can I helicoil without oversizing the hole and negating the effect of the knurled bolt?
• Any other suggestions are welcomed.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Mg84648]

I'd keep going with the EZ-out but warm up the area with a heat gun or torch to melt the loctite. if it breaks you wont be able to drill a new hole through tooling steel so you'll have to weld a nut onto broken bolt.

 

[Gradient]

That's what I'm afraid of, but I won't be able to weld a nut to it since it broke deep in the bore. Think I'm gonna wait for the flute style ez-outs I just ordered.

 

[ridenby]

heat is your friend with red loctite.

 

[frank8003]

Next larger size threads you will be going to and bore the thru hole small amount,
It all will work out.
You want to know about the tools and sizes,
Lots of people on here can answer.

 

[cucvrus]

I have no defined method. I have done it many times. It is a patience thing. Take your time and don't get in a hurry. It is patience and heat that will help you out. I have pulled an engine for this once. I bought one from GSA that had low miles and 2 broken starter bolts and the support bolt was broken off. It was 2- 8 hr days and it was running at the end of the 2nd day. Much easier with the bolts upside down in your face. But be patient you can get it. GOOD LUCK.

 

[Gradient]

I have no defined method. I have done it many times. It is a patience thing. Take your time and don't get in a hurry. It is patience and heat that will help you out. I have pulled an engine for this once. I bought one from GSA that had low miles and 2 broken starter bolts and the support bolt was broken off. It was 2- 8 hr days and it was running at the end of the 2nd day. Much easier with the bolts upside down in your face. But be patient you can get it. GOOD LUCK.

I've got two of these m1009's, just bought the one with the broken bolt because it's not rusted out like my other one. Was going to swap the engines anyway, but have never done that before. So I have a question about pulling the engine, can I do it without taking the transmission out with it? I seem to always see videos where they pull both at the same time, but I'd rather not mess it.

 

[cucvrus]

Yes you can pull the engine only. I use a jack and a piece of 2 X 10 or plywood and support the transmission. Make sure you leave the torque converter in the transmission. It is very easy to change an engine in a CUCV. Very little wiring and easy to get in and out. I would NOT pull the engine and transmission together unless I had the cab off or I was scrapping the truck. That is a lot of heavy hard work.

 

[PJL]

http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/how-to-remove-red-threadlocker/

Here is a link for you. 550 degrees is the magic number.

 

[cucvrus]

http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/how-to-remove-red-threadlocker/

Here is a link for you. 550 degrees is the magic number.

RED Hot is the magic number to me. It is a cure all. I also found the steel bolt melts a long time before the cast iron block.

 

[Gradient]

http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/how-to-remove-red-threadlocker/

Here is a link for you. 550 degrees is the magic number.

Thank you! I had it all wrong as I was heating the block for expansion. I should have just googled it, but thank you.