Budd nut from ****

[mightymanx]

At the truck shop where I worked as a kid when the impact was stalling out we used to hit the socket with a 5 pound sledge (AKA Thor) after about 3-5 whacks the nuts always zipped off sometimes throwing sparks as then went.

We went with the copper antiseze instead of the molly crap, copper seemed to work much longer in my experience molly turns to glue after a few years.

 

[ODw/envy]

Apparently, he uses 6 feet worth of copper anti-seize.

Sorry I had to.

 

[panshark]

when I was looking to single out, I had 3 options: buy 3, 5, or 7 tires. I know I'm probably going to catch all sorts of guff for owning up to considering all 3...

If you buy 3 of the super singles you're looking at, you can put the bigger tires on the front, and still have a spare for the front (and back). This option may work if adding your 2 front tires to your set of 8 in the back allows you to replace the tires that are worrying you.

If you buy 5 then you can super single out the back, and have a spare for the back. You then have a lot of spares for the front.

If you buy 7, you're singled out, and you only have to carry one spare (as opposed to both sizes for the hodge-podge method.)

If you replace tires in this fashion, 6-wheel drive should be out of the question, except in extreme situations.

 

[BadMastard]

Oh, I feel your pain. On the F-4 we had a 8 foot bar with a 1"socket setup on the end for tightening the wing pylon. It just doesn't seem right when you have three guys walking a wrench around to tighten a bolt.

Ok, not that I WANT to say this, but I have had the joy of trying to remove a very, very, very stuck lug nut before. All the advice and methods you have been given may work. One I didn't see yet was to put the other lugs back on, and tighten them. Once tight, try removing the "stuck" one. It's worked for me a few times. but after reading this thread, I'm heading over to harbor freight. I watched them put the lug nuts on my MV with the big air wrench. I'm a little scared now.

BadMastard

 

[Gunfreak25]

Holy crap that required some thinking. I won't be ready for super singles anytime soon but when I do it will be as easy and swapping rubbers since I like breaking them down myself. I am just going to remove the 4 bad tires and run the rears "dish out". As somebody stated in another post the wheels are still bolted in the center line of the bearings so there shouldn't be any more stress put on them compared to duallies. The downside is your carrying capacity is dropped in half, but I think this is a good compromise for what I intend to use the vehicle for.

You should see the bad tires on the truck now. 2 sidewalls are almost completely peeled off and 2 of them are almost split in half down the middle of the tread from dry rot. I am not sure but I think I can see the tube on all 4 of them. :lol; The rest are all quite good. No, the truck has not been driven with these tires.

 

[panshark]

which capacity is cut in half? payload, or gross weight? Truck weighs 13k lbs, 10k on-road carrying capacity. That's 23k lbs.

By removing 4 tires, let's assume that you're reducing capacity by only 40%. So we should be ok to carry 60% of 23k lbs, or 13,800 lbs. If your truck has a winch, it may be argued that a large cooler in the bed would put you at your max weight.

I'm not trying to win a math game, I'm just making a point that the 9.00's wear out surprisingly quickly when they are singled out. It's no wonder, if the truck is at a modified maximum weight at all times. If I was close to you I'd make you a fire-sale deal on the 9's I've still got.

 

[Gunfreak25]

I would assume payload, but the chances of me ever putting any more than even 3000lbs in the thing anytime in the next 10 years are probably nil. I have not had the truck weighed yet but with the 455 Olds powerplant and single tires i'd say it's a couple thousand less than the original factory weight.

 

[nk14zp]

All I had was a little blow torch to do the heating. I too was surprised by the copper pipe, it has a sight bow to it but it's pretty darn thick, not the first time it's been used for leverage purposes. About $60 worth of copper.

While we're on the subject of wheels. Does anyone have any opinions on this?

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/11539-these-singles-without-hub-flip.html

I am on a budget as it is and I need to pickup 4 new tires for the truck before it even hits the road. For the time being, can I just torque the thimbles back on and run the outer wheels? That would solve my tire issue, and it's less rubber to deal with. I don't plan on doing any heavy hauling or trailblazing. I think it looks pretty good too, a lot better than just running the inner wheels.

Use the thimbles to hold your rim on dished out.

 

[91W350]

Front axle weighs 6400 without winch. If both rears.were.carrying 6400, we would be at 19,200. I doubt I will ever put 6,000 in mine. Singled 9.00s just look wanting or naked to me. Glen

 

[73m819]

when we are talking HEAT, PLEASE, PLEASE REMEMBER the EXPLODING tire vid, that is on site

 

[Gunfreak25]

I've seen it, the wheel I was working on was deflated.

 

[Kohburn]

get one of these any never worry again

NEW TORQUE MULTIPLIER LUG WRENCH TRUCK SEMI BUS TRACTOR | eBay

mechanical advantage of almost 60-to-1

has effortlessly removed all lugs including ones that the 6' bar had trouble with.

 

[Economist]

Thanks for the link. I just ordered one of the wrenches. Given the amount of time and money I have spent trying to get the lug nuts off, I hope this solves the problem. I will let you know when I give it a test run.