• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Buying a bobbed deuce, price discussion

DevRev

Member
49
0
6
Location
KY
10k

1967 Am general, jeep,

condition: good
cylinders: 6 cylinders
drive: 4wd
fuel: diesel
paint color: green
size: full-size
title status: clean
transmission: manual
type: truck

Bobbed military deuce! Runs and drives nice! Whistler turbo, multi-fuel diesel! 5 speed, 4x4 sprag t case, comes with a complete air shift t case! Like new 46" mrap wheels and tires with the run flat still inside, hard top, heater, bed racks with tarp! Eye catcher! Never been off road!!! $10,000 ....




Was wondering if this was a good price. It's all stock, not even spin on oil filter but he says nothing is wrong with it. It would be a 3 hour drive one way to pick her up but I'm willing. I'm 50/50 on this whole idea. On one hand, it's a unique, fun vehicle that I'd drive a lot...the second half is screaming if this truck motor goes out then it's a dead truck. Any major repair would be a nightmare. It's a 50 year old truck. Something going wrong with it is inevitable.


I have a normal car to drive, so the truck needing work wouldn't stop me from doing anything else I needed to do, but I just have this nightmare that the motor might just pop. I've read threads of a few people daily driving deuces for months to years and they never made comments about the motor going out.

Thoughts?
 
Last edited:

98G

Former SSG
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,921
4,066
113
Location
AZ/KS/MO/OK/NM/NE, varies by the day...
You're going to catch **** for posting a link.

Cosmetically it looks good, and I'm not even into bobbers.

If I were selling it, I'd be pricing it at the $10k. If I was buying it, I'd be interested around $7k ***if*** the fab work is done right.

The thing about a bobber is the quality of the fab work. Done rigjt it's a value enhancer. Done wrong, it's a parts truck. Insufficient data to say on that one.
 

98G

Former SSG
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,921
4,066
113
Location
AZ/KS/MO/OK/NM/NE, varies by the day...
Keep the rpm below 2200 and the motor should be fine if it's OK now. A motor swap isn't that big of a deal in the scheme of things. $2-$3k for a NOS crate multifuel.

The sprag transfer is less desirable, but having the air shift to swap offsets most of that. I'd run it with tje sprag transfer and swap only of problems.
 

DevRev

Member
49
0
6
Location
KY
You're going to catch **** for posting a link.

Cosmetically it looks good, and I'm not even into bobbers.

If I were selling it, I'd be pricing it at the $10k. If I was buying it, I'd be interested around $7k ***if*** the fab work is done right.

The thing about a bobber is the quality of the fab work. Done rigjt it's a value enhancer. Done wrong, it's a parts truck. Insufficient data to say on that one.
I edited out the craigslist post and just copy pasted and uploaded images :)

I'm going to try and see if I can't bring the price from 10k down to 8500-9000. I do need to find out about who bobbed it, and how they bobbed it as I know there are some shortcut bobs out there. Thanks for your info

Keep the rpm below 2200 and the motor should be fine if it's OK now. A motor swap isn't that big of a deal in the scheme of things. $2-$3k for a NOS crate multifuel.

The sprag transfer is less desirable, but having the air shift to swap offsets most of that. I'd run it with tje sprag transfer and swap only of problems.
Definitely gonna keep those RPMs low. First thing I'm going to do is add spin on oil filters and do a thorough check of the brakes and everything when I first see it and spend a even bigger amount of time going through everything when I get it home. That's not a bad price at all. With little electrical components I'm sure the engine is easier to pull out. I think I can follow the TM pretty good to pull the engine myself, even though I've never done that before.

I think keeping a good maintenance schedule will help a lot as well as following the startup and shutdown procedure.

I know about the sprag, it was almost a deal breaker to me but since he's going to include the air shift I figured just what you said, run until there's a problem.
 

daytonatrbo

Member
320
3
18
Location
Tricities, TN
Spin-on filters are a big upgrade for a truck that gets driven a lot. They almost eliminate the "dry start" issue with the oil drain down on the stock setup. That's going to allow you to shorten the start-up routine without killing the turbo or bearings.

If you have big enough tools, these trucks aren't bad to work on. Like you say, they are super simple.

The engine has a couple of big wires for the starter and alt, a small trigger wire for the alt, cooling system, and fuel lines. That's about it as far as what you have to disconnect to pull it. But you will need a crane that can lift a cubic yard of iron D:
 

DevRev

Member
49
0
6
Location
KY
Spin-on filters are a big upgrade for a truck that gets driven a lot. They almost eliminate the "dry start" issue with the oil drain down on the stock setup. That's going to allow you to shorten the start-up routine without killing the turbo or bearings.

If you have big enough tools, these trucks aren't bad to work on. Like you say, they are super simple.

The engine has a couple of big wires for the starter and alt, a small trigger wire for the alt, cooling system, and fuel lines. That's about it as far as what you have to disconnect to pull it. But you will need a crane that can lift a cubic yard of iron D:
I've luckily got a tractor so I can definitely lift that motor out of there :) thanks for the info!
 

Floridianson

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,390
2,439
113
Location
Interlachen Fl.
Not just the motor your going to pull if you do. Motor/trans and radiator in one shot. Everything makes it out the front just need adjustable sling. Slips out between the head lights. Easy even done it by myself but it is good to have help. I have two OTC one 1500 and the 4k and I use the 4k. got it off Eray 200 bucks. So cooling system stays intacked. Just do jackshaft to transmission/leave it connected to transfer. 2 front motor mounts two rear, some Elect. wires, fuel line, tack cable, compressor output air line and IP linkage plus stick shifter, clutch linkage. Front grill just loosen the 4 bolts and the top arms slide up and the bottom of the grill slides out. One hour job using air tools no rusted bolts/nuts.
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-1806-Capacity-Load-Rotor-Positioning/dp/B00063WG08
 
Last edited:
Top