Buying Help

[Shaffert]

I am looking to purchase a CUCV and I am wondering on advice from anyone. I know you guys probably see these posts about 17x a day; but any help would be appreciated. I check the Government liquidation sites, found a place that auctions them about 2 hours from my house. Checked craigslist and found a nice truck (not sure what that model is called 1009?) for $2,000. I would like to hear any type of past experiences from anyone, expert heads ups, ect. They seem like perfect winter trucks and all around BADASS.

Thanks for any answers!

Tom

 

[WILDBOY6X6]

HI the craigslist one is a good price if runs good need to go test drive it , if it is a blazer then its a M1009 a pickup its a M1008 most likely.
A g/l or auction one need to try to get one that they can start, a non running one may end up $$ ing you deep, not so bad if can work on it your self. The things to look for on them and the craigslist one too is make sure when you look at it its cold, this will tell you if the glow plugs are working and it starts good, this is important because if its hot they will not need to come on then you might not see a problem till you buy.
I would check the oil, water, and trany fluid also the front hubs for side play in bearings, and the normal things like braking when driving it.
The best way is it lightly hold the wheel and hit the brakes, look for pulling to left or right also pedal travel push on it and hold see if it bleeds down this is a sign of a bad master cylinder. Another thing is play in steering while driving see if it drifts any, and when standing turn wheel side to side see how far it turns before wheels respond. I hope this helps you a bit, feel free to pm me if you like too.


Steve

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Welcome!

Once over lightly: The M1009 is a Blazer. The M1008, M1028, M1028A1, A2, and A3 are pickups. The pickups are different because of suspension differences, mostly, and in the case of the A3, it's a dually. There's also an M1031, which is the pickup with a mobile service shop on it instead of a regular bed. If you want to dive into the nitty-gritty of the exact differences, you can find that in the TMs and the Wiki, I think.

If you buy from an auction, plan to trailer it home, even if it's listed as running, and have a video of it moving around. It might be drivable after a jump start, but the batteries are probably shot, and what will you do if you have to stop on the way home? OR what if it does not shift properly? That was my case - it was a running vehicle, but the vacuum lines were rotted and it would not shift out of 1st gear. That isn't going to work on the Interstate!

Plan to drop a grand into into it to make it reliable. Just plan on it. Factor that in to your purchase decision. These things are 30 years old, and have not been well taken care of in many cases. It will need rubber stuff (door seals, vacuum lines), basic maintenance, and probably will have some electrical problems. Rusted connectors and grounds, if nothing else.

Don't buy one thinking you are buying a "ready to hit the road daily driver" unless you are buying it from a private party that has taken care of it.

 

[Warthog]

I am looking to purchase a CUCV and I am wondering on advice from anyone. I know you guys probably see these posts about 17x a day; but any help would be appreciated. I check the Government liquidation sites, found a place that auctions them about 2 hours from my house. Checked craigslist and found a nice truck (not sure what that model is called 1009?) for $2,000. I would like to hear any type of past experiences from anyone, expert heads ups, ect. They seem like perfect winter trucks and all around BADASS.

Thanks for any answers!

Tom

Welcome to the site.

A little house keeping. You need to edit your your profile to list your State of residence. The US is not a State.

Second. These trucks are 30+ years old. While they are tough old birds, I don't know if I would call the BADAZZ. (part of the site rules asks you to watch your language). They are just plain Jane trucks that have been rode hard and most put up wet.

With that being said I really like them. KISS. Keep it SIMPLE

I agree with Marcus and all his points. Plan on at least a grand to get one running and more $$$ to do any upgrades.

Buying from any auction site is not for the faint of heart. Only bid as much as you are willing to loose. I have bought great runners and I have bout boat anchors. On truck I bought had a bent frame. Didn't see that in the pictures or description.

A private sale is your best bet for a single purchase. You can kick the tires and look it over with a fine tooth comb.

 

[Drock]

Agree with all the comments, But I'll have to say it's more like $2000.00 to $3000.00 if you really want a primary ,daily driver. For a first time buyer I recommend NOT buying one from GL. Instead buy a runner from ah guy that's already put the time and $$$ into getting drivable for you. Even then I'm sure you'll still spend that $2000.00 to $3000.00. Remember these things have sat for 20-30 years. They need EVERYTHING RUBBER!, All fluids, Some electrical, and Brakes, don't forget BRAKES! On my M1028 when I pulled off the rusted on, no longer flouting calipers the pads were crumbling apart in my hands. Same with the rear shoes. And the rubber flex lines were gone. All this and mine was ah runner I bought off Ebay and drove 50 miles home! All this being said I love my truck and people do too. I get lots of thumbs up, and questions at gas stations. And if the opportunity presented it's self I would buy another. So expect to be bitten buy the O.D. bug like the rest of us

 

[Al Harvey]

Welcome,
Another thing not mentioned yet, do you want it to be military? If so you need to make sure it still has two batteries and two alternators. Also if buying from an individual, find out what all they have done to it so you will not have to figure it out the hard way. I concur with the above post of at least a grand to bring it up to par. I replaced all the U-Joints, brakes, tie rods, fluids, filters, etc on mine after I got it to prevent and issues. Another thing to keep in mind is the military trucks have a 6.2L Diesel in them, some on craigslist have been converted to 350 gas burners. If that's what you want that's fine, but the resale value on them is low compared to the diesel, just something to keep in mind.

Good Luck and be fore warned that there is no cure for the OD disease.

 

[gungearz]

Agree with all the comments, But I'll have to say it's more like $2000.00 to $3000.00 if you really want a primary ,daily driver. For a first time buyer I recommend NOT buying one from GL. Instead buy a runner from ah guy that's already put the time and $$$ into getting drivable for you. Even then I'm sure you'll still spend that $2000.00 to $3000.00. Remember these things have sat for 20-30 years. They need EVERYTHING RUBBER!, All fluids, Some electrical, and Brakes, don't forget BRAKES! On my M1028 when I pulled off the rusted on, no longer flouting calipers the pads were crumbling apart in my hands. Same with the rear shoes. And the rubber flex lines were gone. All this and mine was ah runner I bought off Ebay and drove 50 miles home! All this being said I love my truck and people do too. I get lots of thumbs up, and questions at gas stations. And if the opportunity presented it's self I would buy another. So expect to be bitten buy the O.D. bug like the rest of us

And don't forget... if you plan on using it as a daily driver, then plan on a secondary vehicle as a backup (you will need it) and always take a fare amount of tools with you for roadside servicing.
My Brother inlaw bought a 1009, looked like it was in showroom condition... no hacked wiring and only 26k miles on it, ran extremely well for 4 months... until problem after problem kept occurring with the 6.2 engine.... then last summer he had enough of the engine (with over a grand in it) and I dumped a fresh rebuilt 350 tbi sbc in it.... it has never had a hiccup ever since....

 

[o1951]

If you fill in your location, then you can find out if there are people familiar with what you want to buy near you. If so, suggest you compensate someone to look over any planned purchase with you.

I am a very experienced mechanic who has rebuilt/ repaired just about everything. I still would pay someone who owns/works on the specific vehicle I was considering. Second pair of eyes may cost me a little and save me lots.

 

[Skinny]

If you fill in your location, then you can find out if there are people familiar with what you want to buy near you. If so, suggest you compensate someone to look over any planned purchase with you.

I am a very experienced mechanic who has rebuilt/ repaired just about everything. I still would pay someone who owns/works on the specific vehicle I was considering. Second pair of eyes may cost me a little and save me lots.

Agreed! No one ever wants to pay a technician to fix something but everyone complains when they realize they bought a lemon

 

[Shaffert]

Thanks for all the advice and sorry for the late reply. The thing is this would definitely not be a primary vehicle it would be something I can from time to time take off road or through the snow (if they are not good in snow then I will probably not be purchasing one). I don't mind a project I have access to lifts and tools because my family owns a shop and I found out a family friend of ours used to buy these all the time and fix them and sell them so hes another guy I can talk to for sure. I'll put my location in now haha (Pennsylvania). But thanks again, I will stay away from GL's from all the things you guys are saying and I'll stick with checking Craigslist. What attracts me to these was the whole thought of these being cheap and it could turn into a project and something fun to take out from time to time. I already have a daily driver just need something for snow.

 

[o1951]

If you have someone who is very experienced with these vehicles, you do not have to stay away from GL. A thorough pre purchase checkout by someone like your friend who has worked on and is familiar with what you plan to purchase should weed out the ones beyond economic repair. Then you bid on the ones that within your price range and skills, knowing that with any of these vehicles, no matter from who you purchase, there can always be unexpected repairs. If you know what you are doing, you can get a great deal this way. Parts are available.


Personally, even if it looks good, I would not drive it away. I would flatbed it to a place where I can pull wheels, check brakes, hoses, service it, give it a thorough going over before I put it on the road.

 

[Shaffert]

I will definitely trailer it, I have a lot of connections in the car business after working for a few dealerships, my family owning a mechanic shop, and having family and close friends that are motor heads just like me. Getting one from an auction no matter how good they say it is will only be towed home. I have been through **** and back with the BMW for it being well, an old BMW. I think I could tackle one of these. I heard they are a pretty easy diesel to work on, if I can't fix it then I know a lot of people who would help me out just for a few bucks or just help because they enjoy fixing cars. I am definitely going to take precautions on these cars. I just have to ask to some of the professionals I know to help me check them out.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Sounds like you're good to go!

 

[Skinny]

That would be an interesting poll, who has been able to drive all the way home successfully without any repairs from a GL purchase?

Even private sales are questionable because many people have different ideas of what mint, driveable, and good condition are compared to me. When my M1031 showed up on the car carrier, I imediately realized the $1300 it cost me was money well spent. Diesel fuel, time on the road, possible tow bills, extra time for repairs, etc. would have been well above that seeing the hidden things that lurked in the truck. All it takes is a brake caliper to lock up in the middle of nowhere and your budget could be screwed. Sure you could clip the hydraulic line pull the caliper, bend the brake line over, and limp it home. One, who has time to do that? Two, this could happen in a rather sketchy neighborhood and not legal to carry a gun in those communist states. Three, you open yourself to liability if you ever were to get in an accident.

Get a tow bar, trailer, or professional carrier and never look back. Nothing is for free and eventually stuff just happens...

 

[Shaffert]

I will definitely keep all of that in mind. I definitely do not want to drive it home because chances are the tires are dry rotted and Pennsylvania roads are not the greatest in the world. Possibly the worst.

 

[Skinny]

Have you been up I84 right at the NY border? I think the DOT on both sides have lost there minds...

If that doesn't get you, the calcium slurry in the winter will eat a brand new car in about 3 years. Chances are you won't make your trip home

 

[Shaffert]

No I haven't. I try to stay as far as possible away from NY. Last winter ate my bmw pretty bad. still doing rust patching in some areas.

 

[GM72K10]

Welcome . Right up the road from you near Hatfield Pa.