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Bypassing the blower fuse

Chevybrit

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I'm looking to bypass my damaged blower fuse port and though I've read a few examples I would like to document it for anyone else with some pictures.. If this has been done I can't find it.

I guess first I'll need to identify the wires on the back of the fuse block (I remembered that Warthog had identified another circuit for someone else and from that I could have counted up to heater fuse #5. ) I've spent the best part of an hour trying to find it. No Joy.

firewall side view.jpg

rear view of firewall fuse block.jpg

Looking at the engine compartment side it looks like it should be the green / blue wires - it seems to be in roughly the right position at the top but I couldn't make out 100% with the wiring diagram

CUCV WIPER WASHER HORN AND HEATER CIRCUITS color.jpg

Thoughts please
 

Warthog

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I'm confused. You want to bypass the bad fuse holder for the heater but are showing pictures of the engine side of the firewall block. The wiring is inside the cab.

Heater fuse will have three wires. Orange power from the ingition switch and two brown wires. One to the heater switch and one to the drivers side GEN1 excitor.
 

Chevybrit

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I'm confused. You want to bypass the bad fuse holder for the heater but are showing pictures of the engine side of the firewall block. The wiring is inside the cab.

Heater fuse will have three wires. Orange power from the ingition switch and two brown wires. One to the heater switch and one to the drivers side GEN1 excitor.
I think i was confused ... the blocks in the middle of diagram F20 are the firewall side of the fuse board?
 

Warthog

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There are three components to the "fusbox". There is the physical block that houses the fuses. Then the interior "firewall" block and the engine compartment firewall block.

The fuse box portion is mounted to the interior firewall block. Remove the screws and separate the blocks. The wires for the heater fuse can be accessed once the blocks are separated.

No need to pull the engine compartment block. But since you have it separated take time to clean the contacts and re-grease them.
 

Warthog

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I think i was confused ... the blocks in the middle of diagram F20 are the firewall side of the fuse board?
The left side in in the engine compartment, the right is in the interior and then the fusebox is mounted ontop of the interior block.

To learn how to read the wiring diagrams read the first 6 pages of Chapter 2 in the TM 9-2320-289-34. It explains what the wires sizes, labels and diagrams mean.
 
Last edited:

Chevybrit

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After my CraigsList Ad failed to turn up a certified Dwarf electrician ... I tackled the fuse box bypass with an in line fuse and it went well. I will upload some pictures after the chiropractor has finished with me ..:)
 

Chevybrit

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So not an oil painting but very happy I've removed the trouble spot on my very fried fuse board ... I guess at some point if I get my workshop built I'll get to strip the board out and replace it ..


Fuse box.jpg

I also used these to replace all the fragile pins that were pushed into the fuse sockets passed the existing fuses

Fuse piggy back tap.jpg

As someone on here has said chip away at the stuff you can return to original ...
As a daily I've got to say I love all the weird stuff about these trucks!

:D
 

Chevybrit

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Oh I forgot to say I also replaced the flasher relay for a more modern one in the pick from Autozone ....
I couldn't stand the crazy old car indicators that flash so quick they look like they're about to self destruct!

Weird but I like to hear that trusty bi-metallic click clunk click clunk when I'm sat at the lights..........
 
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