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Bypassing the master light switch??

Jons999

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So the push button light controller shorted out on my 63 deuce and half. I took the controller apart and found some melted components inside. I have 2 questions. I ordered a new switch but i would like to drive the truck before it gets here. Can i jump any of the pins to make at least the brake lights functional? Second question, although im sure these switches are prone to failure on there own, are there and common problems that may have caused the failure, like high current draw through the switch? I dont want to burn up the new one. I searched the forums but didnt come up with much.

Thanks!
 

doghead

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You can use a jumper from wire# 15/pin F, to wire #75/pin A. That should get you brake lights.

If that is too difficult, you can just unplug the brake light switch and resupply the brake switch with a 24v+ and jumper the other side of the switch to the plug you unplugged. You only have 2 choices which one to plug the jumper into.

To figure out which one to plug into, poke the 24v+ wire in and see which one lights the brake lights. Thats the one you want to jumper out of the switch to.
 
Last edited:

gimpyrobb

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I agree, get a 3 lever switch, but if you intend on using the push button johnny, make sure you have an external ground wire going to it. Some of them have been known to be faulty without the extra ground strap. I thought it was just the older ones, but it can't hurt.
 

papakb

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I've had the electronic light switch in my HMMWV since they first started showing up and have never had a problem with it. After reading all the horror stories about them though I carry one of the old 3 lever switches with me as a backup.

The electronic switch looks sexy but you have to look at the darn thing to operate it. The 3 lever switch can be operated by touch. Even though I've never had a problem with the electronic switch I'm considering going back to it because of the reliability of the units. One of the things I've learned over the years though is that there are about 4 variations to the 3 lever switch meaning components inside can be different making them iffy to repair.

Kurt
 

gimpyrobb

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One of the things I've learned over the years though is that there are about 4 variations to the 3 lever switch meaning components inside can be different making them iffy to repair.

Kurt
I have opened up a few dead ones. Your name would have to be Merlin if you were able to fix one!
 

NDT

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Funny story: Coming home late one moonless night without a flashlight, my 3 lever switch failed. In complete darkness, I cut all the wires going to the switch, stripped them, and twisted them together to get my lights on. I was not always well prepared back in the day.
 

cranetruck

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Don't know about that particular flux capacitor, gimp, but do keep in mind that the push button switch is an electronic device and should ideally be out of the circuit (=off) when the engine is cranked due to possible damaging voltage spikes.
Many a regulator has blown when a loose battery connection caused just that. Add an on/off switch, so that the power to the push button switch can be turned off. Don't know the circuitry, but that is the way it should be, IMHO.
 
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