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Cab Latch / Latching plate

j_boucher

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So I'm curious if there needs to be some sort of bushing between the mounting plate for the latch and the cab mount ? Mine has some play in there but the bolt is tight and I didn't know if its normal
 

BKubu

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There is definitely a rubber bushing in that spot. It probably eroded, as it did on my 1998 M1078. When I was looking, I could not find the OEM part, so I replaced it with multiple heavy duty large rubber fender washers. The swap seems to have worked out fine as they have been on the truck for several years now.
 
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Primussucks

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Same thing here.. I have an A1R (so it is a fixed cab.. no air or adjustments).
If this is in the TM, I can't find it.
I guess just cut one out of horse stall mat as well? If there is a replacement/part#, please share.

-Gavin

IMG_2981.jpeg
 

GeneralDisorder

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Same thing here.. I have an A1R (so it is a fixed cab.. no air or adjustments).
If this is in the TM, I can't find it.
I guess just cut one out of horse stall mat as well? If there is a replacement/part#, please share.

-Gavin
You need an additional set of the cab support bushings - the A1R stack up uses the same bushings as the front of the cab. I had new one's made by one of the original manufacturers. I have sets for sale. $175 shipped per set. A1R needs two sets and you'll end up with one spare thick bushing. With that bushing failure you have going on there - watch out that the cab doesn't short out on the ether solenoid, or the alternator studs, etc. Very dangerous to have it floating and not secured like that.

It's in the electronic TM's.

I can set you up with the TM's and/or a laptop for diagnostics. Having an A1R - a laptop with the manuals and interface software to talk to your engine, transmission, ABS, CTIS, etc is absolutely mandatory or you'll end up stuck in the back country with a lawn ornament.

A1R Cab Latch.jpg
 

Primussucks

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Well.. Good news.. I already have two 5342-01-371-793 (part #7 above). These are on the shelf waiting to be installed in the front (both of the fronts are dust).
 

Mrgior31513

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Hockey pucks are made from rubber, the dimensions are 1" thick and 3" diameter, and they are super cheap. They're my go to for home made bushings and such.

Haven't tried to do much thinning of them, but a belt sander would probably take some of that thickness off. Probably work a lot longer than rubber horse mats, those are pretty soft rubber.
 

GeneralDisorder

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Well.. Good news.. I already have two 5342-01-371-793 (part #7 above). These are on the shelf waiting to be installed in the front (both of the fronts are dust).
How old are they? They have a hard and fast shelf life due to their construction. They will turn soft and gummy. If you can press your fingernail into the material and it leaves a permanent imprint they are trash. I see "new old stock" one's being sold that are absolutely trash.

And others that are made from Urethane don't have the correct material properties. They were vulcanized rubber for a reason.
 

Primussucks

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How old are they? They have a hard and fast shelf life due to their construction. They will turn soft and gummy. If you can press your fingernail into the material and it leaves a permanent imprint they are trash. I see "new old stock" one's being sold that are absolutely trash.

And others that are made from Urethane don't have the correct material properties. They were vulcanized rubber for a reason.
they are NOS.. expiration date of 2019, but the rubber still feels good.. not squishy or gummy.
 

GeneralDisorder

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they are NOS.. expiration date of 2019, but the rubber still feels good.. not squishy or gummy.
Might be ok for a short time. They have an expiration for good reasons. I wouldn't bother with them personally. That means they were made in 2009 most likely. Like old tires they will disintegrate surprisingly quickly once they start seeing use and flex, etc. Gotta love the surplus scalpers selling expired garbage.....
 

Primussucks

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Might be ok for a short time. They have an expiration for good reasons. I wouldn't bother with them personally. That means they were made in 2009 most likely. Like old tires they will disintegrate surprisingly quickly once they start seeing use and flex, etc. Gotta love the surplus scalpers selling expired garbage.....
I'll keep my eye on it.. got a lot of other things on the 'to-do' list for the truck...
i am interested in your mounts though.. i'd much rather do the driver front cab mount once. :)
Passenger side and cab latch mounts are easy
 

FarmingSmallKubota

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I'll keep my eye on it.. got a lot of other things on the 'to-do' list for the truck...
i am interested in your mounts though.. i'd much rather do the driver front cab mount once. :)
Passenger side and cab latch mounts are easy
I second on not having to do the driver side mount more than once. What a pain in the behind
 

GeneralDisorder

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I second on not having to do the driver side mount more than once. What a pain in the behind
Broke a 1/2" extension doing mine. Breaker bar and a cheater pipe and some swearing. Fortunately my truck was a Kuwait/TX stationed truck and a 2008 so most of my problems are related to mud dobbers and the two dust bowls she lives in. Very little actual rust. I pity the guy that has an A0 Hawaii truck and has to do those bushings. Honestly once the nut busted loose the rest was easy though.
 

FarmingSmallKubota

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Broke a 1/2" extension doing mine. Breaker bar and a cheater pipe and some swearing. Fortunately my truck was a Kuwait/TX stationed truck and a 2008 so most of my problems are related to mud dobbers and the two dust bowls she lives in. Very little actual rust. I pity the guy that has an A0 Hawaii truck and has to do those bushings. Honestly once the nut busted loose the rest was easy though.
I too broke a half inch extension and breaker bar. air impact would not touch it, nor would 2 electric/battery operated. I tried 3/4 but my impact socket was too thick and i didnt have an extension. so bought an extension borrowed a socket from work and sprayed in kroil for 24hrs and somehow came off easily the next day. getting my hand in there to get the nut started was a 3 hour ordeal.finally used vise grips to hold the top down while i got the nut started. so an extra set of hands would be very helpful for that part
 
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