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Camper/Motorhome Conversion Thoughts

Opie

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I've been spending idle moments thinking about making the van body of my truck "civilized" and more cozy. Would anyone have any insight on the following:

Is there any insulation between the outer and inner skin for a M109 van body? If so, what exactly is it?

What sort of wood is used for the floors? (And can it be be made to look nice, or why bother?)

I've been peeking at these non-traditional camper sites for inspiration:
http://www.unimog.org.uk/mymog/
http://www.robgray.com/motorhomes/
http://www.sbmcc.co.uk/photo1.php

Probably will never happen, but why not dream a bit? :wink:
 
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WillWagner

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M109 etc. They would make a great camper. Lots of room and I think they are insulated. Mount an RVQ so it swings out, plenty of room for water tanks, nice size beds. There was a post a while back form a guy that turnd a 109 into a livable RV and he and his wife go all over the USA in it. I think he's doing another one now. If he's reading this, how 'bout posting some pictures?
 

rmgill

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I've been thinking about an S280 for this same idea.

My general thinking is along the lines of the following:

2KW Honda Genset up high on the back rear or on a movable mount that puts it on the roof. Perhaps a movable exhaust hose that way I can put the exhaust down stream.

Flat custom potable Water Tank on the roof

Power rack on the right with provisions for a 24 volt water pump, small water heater and UPS system with batteries. I'm thinking sealed batteries would be good, but we'll see. I can use an APC UPS to get a good pure sine wave for the power, I've got several 2200 and 3000 va units here at work that'd work for small computer applications.

Small shower and cartridge toilet on the left as you go in. I'm skinny so I can handle a small shower area, same goes for any lass I'd likely date.

Two Bed bunks on the walls that fold down/up out of the way for extra room with cabinets on one side for storage of food and supplies as well as extra gear.

At the front bulkhead over the cab I'd have a Military AC unit and a Diesel Fired Heater with quick disconnects from the truck's tank for running on low power late at night.

Inside AC and DC powered lights with a DC power system that would charge off the truck's system while driving. Probably a pair of large deep cycle batteries mounted in sealed boxes that vent to the outside.
 
If the 109 is like my M348A2 trailer, the underfloor is fir and the walls are fir plywood. (At least that's what I remember Lane saying it was. The walls and ceiling are fully insulated with yellow fiberglass insulation. My trailer floor had linoleum on it that got destroyed and the floor underneath is very solid. I've got some new stuff to put down, but decided to sell instead.

If you'd like a fifth-wheel trailer military set-up, my trailer has plenty of room, just no windows (they can be added). Already has 110 hookup and 24V DC ceiling lights (don't know how they work, though). Front panels open and can be made a separate compartment for the heat/AC. Back and side doors.

Plenty of room inside-18 feet long main level plus another 8 feet over the 5th wheel plate that's 11 inches up. 79 1/2 inches of headroom at the back, only 68 1/2 at the front. 88 1/2 inches between the side walls. Enough room to make it a jeep hauling camper if you can figure out how to hinge the back end!!

And like a traditional 5th wheel, you don't have to stow everything to drive the towing vehicle to the store for groceries. Each of the front landing legs and the back corners level separately for safety. Room underneath for propane tanks and potable and black water tanks and for generator mounting. $6K for the package. Call before 6PM Wednesday and I'll let it go for $5,500. See my ad in the classifieds.
 

OPCOM

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I seen your 109 and it would make a fine camper. It's nicer and cleaner inside than most I seen. You got rails on the inside to attach fixtures and tabletops to, and lots of room. I could have room if I were willing to get rid of the workbench on the drivers side in the S-280 and I'm still not opposed to some kind of fold-down bedding, as in case you didn't noptice I'm a bit on the wide side for an army cot. I was envious of the large matress you had in the 109, I think you should go with it! I've been working with mine for about 3-4 years, so there's no hurry as you do it and these things take time, only plan ahead for whatever you might want to add in later. Once you have considered the floor plan and the arrangement of any plumbing, the electical system 120/24/12V is pretty easy and your 109 still has the control panels up front I saw.
 

area52

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M109

If the box of a M109 mounts the same as a deuce, then you have a lot of space under the floor for tanks and storage. On a deuce there is at least 3 feet across and probably 4 feet down that runs the whole length of the bed. If the 109 is the same then you could put your fresh water and grey/black water tanks here. That would keep the center of gravity low.

You could also put trapdoors in for extra storage space below.

Of course if it doesn't mount this way then this post is useless :shock:
 

gimpyrobb

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This is what I'll be doing if my 109a3 deal goes through. I've been watching these ebay auctions:

260048645760
170046335737
290045592277
270051403947
 

Opie

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I spent Sunday playing in the back of the truck. Current challenges are as follows:

Need to review the TMs to find where the 24v power runs from the cab/chassisto the van body, as now only the shore power option is working.

The metal plate (rather than wood) area over the wheels is really large, so it looks like I'll have to just build those spots up and go with linoleum or laminate flooring over those spots rather than strip and finish the floor.

My walls and ceiling are sheet metal attached to the body by flathead screws.

The boxes for the electronics (particularly for the vent fan) are kind of deep (10 - 12") and might bear being replaced by something more slim, or better yet, somewhere else.

The van doors are a beast to swing open and likely need the nylon bushing treatment a la Diablo truck.

Will need to fab a sturdy railing for the boarding ladder to the truck itself on at least one side, as the spouse is equilibrium impaired.

Aah, to dream!
 

Recovry4x4

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I'd love to do a shopvan camper conversion. Only thing is, my wife can only deal with about a 5 minute ride in any of the trucks. That means it would only be myself and the 4 yr old. Considering that, all I would need is a matress or cots, a cooler and a hole in the wall for a funnel (urinal). Seriously though, if I ever got my hands on another M146 (kicking selfs butt), it would be converted. For this that don't know what they are, its a semi trailer that looks just like the shop van except its 10' longer and has a curbside door. I bought a really nice one and sold it to the neighbor and have been bitter ever since.
 

rizzo

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Re: RE: Camper/Motorhome Conversion Thoughts

Opie said:
Need to review the TMs to find where the 24v power runs from the cab/chassisto the van body, as now only the shore power option is working.
I think it is by the fuel tank. I pulled my shop van off. The only things I unhooked was the trailer plug, fuel line for heater, ground and single wire next to the fuel tank and ground wire. I never tested it, but it has a wire number on it.
Using the skills I learned from Sherlock Holmes, I deduced that it is the power wire.
 

Recovry4x4

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I'm not quite in a position to buy anything more than Ramen Noodles right now but thanks.
 

OPCOM

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For sure install a decent size 24V cable and a DC circuit breaker preferrably the magnetic type for lowest voltage drop. Nortex Electronics has the good used standard electronic equipment mount type ones for cheap, in sizes from 5 to 100A or more. I used #6 wire for hot and ground and a 100A breaker on the hot line. Believe me the first time you short it by accident you will be glad you have a brealker, and there are no fuses to buy. The lugs for the wiring are crimp-on, and soldered. You will be glad to have soldered them a few years down the road after they have gotten humid or wet or been vibrated. Lockwashers are used on every electrical stud and lug. I should have given you a few DC breakers when I was there, I have a bag of them!
 

Opie

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P.,
I guess I'll need to take a road trip some winter to visit and to get some breakers! :driver: (These trucks can handle the blast furnace heat of the Lone Star State in summer, but this driver can't.)

The fuses in the van are about the size of a roll of pennies. Big!
 

Joaquin Suave

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I hope you guys don't mind if I added my $.02....

Though I don't have any experience with making Deuces into Campers, I have built and have made several re-models of Casa Azul over the last 10 years and am in the plannig stages of building a "expedition" box of my LMTV.

The #1 item of concern is weight! Anything you can do to reduce the over all weight is worth doing!

The next item is...Keep it simple. When a person decides to make an expedition camper, they usually make a list of all the tech gagets they want. In a lot of cases, they are a waste of money, space, mass, and the labor to put them in. My suggestion is to take your camper out and stay for a week (even if its in your back yard), then see how confortable you are. When the glaring need for something arrives...Then fill it. Not only will this approch save you money, it will give you more road trip time!

Make sure that you seperate your motor electrical bank from your home bank. My openin is go solar to charge your home bank (in addition to alternator) and then just use a jumper cable if your motor battery bank ever fails to turn the motor over.

Use top load reefers or make sure you have a safety latch if you use side open reefers.

 
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