Can’t get this to start…FIXED!!!

[DaneGer21]

I’ll have a chance to try again this evening. Got everything 100% back together last night, fuel line stuff that is. Tonight I should be able to bleed everything and see what happens

 

[ldmack3]

I know nothing about this subject but am following with interest for educational purposes and just in case!
Is there not someone, like the tractor guy, that you could take the hole assembly to for a bench check?

 

[DaneGer21]

I know nothing about this subject but am following with interest for educational purposes and just in case!
Is there not someone, like the tractor guy, that you could take the hole assembly to for a bench check?

I stopped at another guys house about 20mins down the road where I’ve seen a deuce sitting and moving spots for years. The son wasn’t home but I talked to Dad for awhile and he said him and his son would stop over some day. I traded some of their multi fuel knowledge for them to cut some firewood on our property.

There’s another local here on the forum I can also contact.

And then this newly founded “tractor guy”.


For all I know this truck could be missing a piece/part, and with me purchasing that way and not having experience I would never know the difference.

Tonight I’m going to bleed the fuel system since I have it all together. Then, I’ll see if she’ll start.

 

[ldmack3]

Good luck sir!

 

[Floridianson]

Even if timing was off seems like you should still have fuel coming out one of the head ports. Now with that said I am grasping at straws here and taking on water. When you said valve covers were off and both valves were closed you checked timing. Did you watch # 1 intake drop and then close? Injection Pump Timing | SteelSoldiers

 

[DaneGer21]

Even if timing was off seems like you should still have fuel coming out one of the head ports. Now with that said I am grasping at straws here and taking on water. When you said valve covers were off and both valves were closed you checked timing. Did you watch # 1 intake drop and then close? Injection Pump Timing | SteelSoldiers

#1 cylinder was on the compression stroke, both intake and exhaust valves were closed

Unfortunately last night was just to cold to be in the garage so I didn’t get anything done. Maybe today while the sun is out.

 

[DaneGer21]

I was summoned by the wife today to do leaf pick up. We own 20acres and about 4 of that is our yard, and 90% of our entire property is woods. We have a lot of leaves, which is an understatement haha. She said the leaves were more important and needed to be done, and the truck can wait…yes boss HAHA

Maybe later when the baby goes to bed…

 

[DaneGer21]

Well, good news and bad news.

Good News: The fuel system is 100% leak free.

Bad News: Still didn’t start/stay running.

Here’s what I did tonight….I turned on power. Bleed air from the secondaries bleed valve. Once I noticed a steady stream with no air bubbles for roughly 30secs I closed it. I left power on and grabbed another 5gals of new diesel fuel and dumped it in. There’s roughly 15gals in there now. I then had my wife hit the start button while I sprayed ether. I gave it a constant feed of ether and it was running smooth on that stuff. I had the wife jump from the cab and check my fuel pressure gauge, which is also mounted on the secondaries, it read 40psi, when I gave it a little extra ether the fuel pressure would climb with the rpms. Highest she seen was 60psi. I ran 1.5bottles of ether through it, in one constant run, keeping it running nice and smooth. When the last full can of ether ran out, the engine slowly died. I immediately went to the HH, removed two lines from the top, and had my wife continue to crank the engine. STILL NO FUEL FROM THE HH!!!

Ugh, my head hurts…mostly from the fumes…

This is making no sense. I’ve ran dozers, excavators, tractors, etc out of fuel. Fill with fuel, Crack some lines, crank the engine until fuel, tighten fittings, and they fire right up.

 

[fleetmech]

The deuce fuel system is pretty much self bleeding. Even a substantial air leak wont keep one from trying to run, and nothing but an open and drained line will stop it from flowing at least something. You are not getting any flow through the last stage of the pump, either due to the most stubborn clog ive ever heard of, a completely immobile main plunger or a rack control that is still 'off'. After all, the only thing that stops fuel flow entirely to the discharge ports is the fuel shutdown. Even if the pump was severely worn, mistimed, or getting air, I expect you would still be seeing some fuel or fuel/ air bubble mix coming out the high pressure ports or dv port.

 

[DaneGer21]

The deuce fuel system is pretty much self bleeding. Even a substantial air leak wont keep one from trying to run, and nothing but an open and drained line will stop it from flowing at least something. You are not getting any flow through the last stage of the pump, either due to the most stubborn clog ive ever heard of, a completely immobile main plunger or a rack control that is still 'off'. After all, the only thing that stops fuel flow entirely to the discharge ports is the fuel shutdown. Even if the pump was severely worn, mistimed, or getting air, I expect you would still be seeing some fuel or fuel/ air bubble mix coming out the high pressure ports or dv port.

I have fuel EVERYWHERE, except exiting the HH injector ports. Every port, every valve, every line; even returning to the tank, there is fuel. Before, and after the HH, and on top at the 3/4” bolt. I have tried the original HH and also another from another truck, both resulting in the same situation, no fuel from the HH injector ports.

I gotta walk out to the garage and turn off the lights and pick up a few things.

Are there any pictures you would like me to take quick?

 

[DaneGer21]

Here is my fuel shut off with cover off and rod still attached…

- YouTube

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The HH that is currently on the truck, and shown in this video, is NOT the original. It is the one I picked up so I’d have something for comparison. But, it ended up being cleaner and “tighter”(less wear on plunger is what i thought) than the one that came on the truck when I purchased it, which I would assume is the original.

 

[DaneGer21]

One edit to this next video; it’s 1:28AM haha!!!

I will explain in the morning what I found because, one, I’m tired. And two, my wife’s gonna kill me when I crawl in bed at 2am haha.

Im so excited I don’t even know if I’ll be able to sleep!!!

 

[frank8003]

You get a big "Attaboy" for Sticktoitnifines

 

[Elk1111]

Congratulations!!! I bet you went to sleep with a huge smile on your face last night..

 

[ldmack3]

Congrats man!

 

[DaneGer21]

Ok, here’s what I found. I wish I would have taken pictures but I didn’t so I’ll explain it the best I can. I’m sure I’ll catch some slack or a few I told you so’s.

I decided to fully remove the fuel shut off assembly after I posted that first video last night, even though it’s been apart a dozen times haha. I stared at it for about 15mins and then went to YouTube to watch some videos. I came across a video about HH orings and he showed himself installing the fuel shut off. He explained the easiest way to “align” things and how the assembly should look for installation. I rewound his video about a half dozen times because I noticed a difference!

When showing his shut off, the connecting “arm”(what connects to the rod inside) his was at the 6o’clock position compared to the mounting flange, and then the little nipple on the end of the shaft was at the 9o’clock position. If that makes sense. What I noticed about mine was that I FINALLY seen some marks on the little tab lock down washer thingy. Like someone had removed the “arm” mounting nut.

So, I bent out the tabs, removed the nut and “reclocked” my arm because it was NOT at the correct spot. If you’ve ever removed that arm, you’ll notice that shaft is splined and that arm can be clocked in different positions. So apparently a previous person had that apart and didn’t put it back correctly. Which meant when I was CORRECTLY installing and operating the fuel shut off, it wasnt at the correct angle inside, if that makes sense.

Long story short, I realigned the arm on the shaft, reinstalled everything, and then powered it up. I hit the start button and within about two engine rotations it fired up!

Without having the experience of some, to me it was visually correct as not having anything to compare experience wise.

I can’t thank you guys enough. Not only the time you gave me but your knowledge you shared, it is priceless and I truly appreciate it!

Thanks!
Dane Brillhart

 

[DaneGer21]

Don’t mind my crude drawing…

***picture is for visual only, and may be exaggerated, but depicts the issue***

 

[DaneGer21]

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

youtube.com

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

youtube.com

 

[Elk1111]

Through all of this you’ve gained a lot of knowledge and cleaned up everything else in the fuel system so that’s a plus. Now on to brakes, wheels, axles and everything else these trucks need. Keep up the great posts and enjoy it...

 

[frank8003]

Ok, here’s what I found. I wish I would have taken pictures but I didn’t so I’ll explain it the best I can. I’m sure I’ll catch some slack or a few I told you so’s.

I decided to fully remove the fuel shut off assembly after I posted that first video last night, even though it’s been apart a dozen times haha. I stared at it for about 15mins and then went to YouTube to watch some videos. I came across a video about HH orings and he showed himself installing the fuel shut off. He explained the easiest way to “align” things and how the assembly should look for installation. I rewound his video about a half dozen times because I noticed a difference!

When showing his shut off, the connecting “arm”(what connects to the rod inside) his was at the 6o’clock position compared to the mounting flange, and then the little nipple on the end of the shaft was at the 9o’clock position. If that makes sense. What I noticed about mine was that I FINALLY seen some marks on the little tab lock down washer thingy. Like someone had removed the “arm” mounting nut.

So, I bent out the tabs, removed the nut and “reclocked” my arm because it was NOT at the correct spot. If you’ve ever removed that arm, you’ll notice that shaft is splined and that arm can be clocked in different positions. So apparently a previous person had that apart and didn’t put it back correctly. Which meant when I was CORRECTLY installing and operating the fuel shut off, it wasnt at the correct angle inside, if that makes sense.

Long story short, I realigned the arm on the shaft, reinstalled everything, and then powered it up. I hit the start button and within about two engine rotations it fired up!

Without having the experience of some, to me it was visually correct as not having anything to compare experience wise.

I can’t thank you guys enough. Not only the time you gave me but your knowledge you shared, it is priceless and I truly appreciate it!

Thanks!
Dane Brillhart

This thing must live, as a stickie somehow someplace!?