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changing fluids, fliters & chasing down leaks

jesusgatos

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on the road - in CA right now
I started this thread in order to ask a few more specific general maintenance questions without taking another thread (about service manuals) off-topic. I was asking for help finding service manuals that addressed changing fluids and filters (oil, fuel, coolant, etc.). Recovry4x4 directed me to LO 9-2320-209-12-1, which was helpful - but I've got a few more questions.

For example, I know that changing the engine oil should be pretty straightforward, but I nearly missed the one diagram that points out the drain port below the oil filters. And the filters that I ordered from OD Iron included more seals than I know what to do with. There are two large seals (the diameter of the oil filter cans), but one is narrow and one is wide (I found a remark someone posted in an oil filter thread, saying to use the wide one). And then there's one small seal that I thought would replace the seal under the nut that holds the oil filters down, but it's too small. I guess I can't expect the TM's to answer all these questions for me, but I haven't found any good 'how-to' threads on this topic either.

In spite of all these questions, I'm making pretty good progress.

The axles are almost done: I've flipped the hubs, greased the bearings, installed new seals (except the the pinion seals because none of them are leaking), installed all new wheel cylinders, and changed the oil. Just waiting on some new wheel bearings and brake shoes for the front axle, then it will be back on six wheels.

I've changed the fluid in the transmission and drained the fluid in the transfer-case, but I just found out I need a new transfer-case, so that just turned into a bigger project. Anybody know where I can find a complete air-shift setup?
EDIT: FOUND A TRANSFER-CASE.

Drained the oil from the engine, and now I'm trying to figure out what those little seals are for so I can install the new filters and fill 'er back up.

Just found out that the drain port below the oil filters is seized. Looks like I'm going to have to siphon the oil out of that galley. I've drained the pan (both drain plugs) and removed the oil filters. Is there anywhere else oil collects? Reason why I'm asking is that I'm switching all the fluids over to Amsoil synthetics, so I'd like to purge all the old fluids and sludge.

The other important thing to mention (related to draining the engine oil), is that the dipstick read full, but the 5 gallon bucket that I've been draining into is only a little less than 3/4 of the way full.


EDIT: Adding more pics and questions.

I'm going to steam-clean the entire truck before I sandblast and paint it, and wanted to take some pictures of the condition that it was in. Partly to document the build-up, but mostly to poet here and ask some question about which of these things I should be concerned about. If you guys could let me know what I might need to do about any of these things, I'd like to tackle as much of this stuff as I can while I've got it down/apart right now.

The underside of the hood is developing a heavy film of oil, back toward the hinge.



Pretty sure this is no big deal, but looks like an easy fix. Gasket or RTV?



The whole driver's-side of the block is a little bit wet (oil), mostly towards the back. Doesn't concern me too much because it's not even leaking enough to drip, but I'm worried that the read main seal might be going out. Is that a 'drop the transmission' job in these trucks?







Passenger's-side is leaking a bit down by the pan too.



This is what the underside of the pan looks like. Pretty wet towards the back. Also wondering if that 2nd drain hole is supposed to have a plug in it.



Looks like I definitely need to take care take care of this sooner than later. The underside of it is oily and drips a little bit of FUEL!?!



 
Last edited:

jesusgatos

Active member
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28
38
Location
on the road - in CA right now
That's the thing - there's not going to be a 'next' oil change. At least, not any time soon. I am going to be running a Spinner II centrifuge though, so maybe you're right. Maybe I shouldn't sweat it.
 

stumps

Active member
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Maryland
If your dipstick reads "FULL" after your engine has been off, you are a good gallon low. It is supposed to read "FULL" warmed up, 60 seconds after you cut it off. Cold, it is supposed to be 1-1/2 inches above "FULL".

-Chuck
 

jesusgatos

Active member
2,689
28
38
Location
on the road - in CA right now
Oops. I was reading the dipstick cold. I'm just getting into the service manuals now, as I'm, er, um, getting around to servicing it. I thought I was attending to the basics, but that makes me feel like kind of a dummy.

I edited my original post to add some more questions and post some pictures (related to my questions).

Thanks for all the help with this so far. Really appreciate it.
 

bassetdeuce

New member
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Location
Orange City, FL
jesusgatos, I have no idea why these filters always seem to have incorrect washers. Are there any kits out there with ALL of the correct washers and gaskets for the fuel and oil filters?
 

stumps

Active member
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Location
Maryland
Regarding the two drain holes on the bell housing, there is only one drain, the other hole is for storing the drain plug. The plug is to be put in the "leaky" hole whenever you plan on driving through high water, or mud.

-Chuck
 

jesusgatos

Active member
2,689
28
38
Location
on the road - in CA right now
jesusgatos, I have no idea why these filters always seem to have incorrect washers. Are there any kits out there with ALL of the correct washers and gaskets for the fuel and oil filters?
Huh. So what am I supposed to do about replacing the seals under the bolt-heads? Have to order those separately? Seems like the best solution might be to order Jatonka's spin-on adapters...
 

jesusgatos

Active member
2,689
28
38
Location
on the road - in CA right now
I found a complete air-shift transfer-case (actually someone just saw my posts and gave me a heads-up via. email). I gotta go pick it up in Portland, but it's complete with the dash-mounted air-shifter and even includes a hydraulic PTO unit. Super-stoked to have some parts lined-up to fix this thing. Not nearly as excited about the prospect of actually having to remove & replace it. I'll never complain about D300's and Atlas' again, that's for sure...

Anyway, thanks again to everybody for the PM's and offers to help!
 
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