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and of course that "clump" of airlines totally obstructs the view as well as any working room from below..
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Changing the front cab mounts on the 1078A1
- Thread starter Kambaku
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Agreed. I replaced mine and the easy way to get access to the top is to remove the grille. That helps a lot...
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how did you attack the bottom bushing components?.... I can't even fit my hand in there !
Third From Texas
Well-known member
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I had the bumper off my truck awhile back and I said to myself that when it came time to do the bushings on this truck I would pop the grill AND bumper. The bumper is super easy to pull/install if you have a friend with you for two minutes..
As to "how to" there are a few YouTube vids out there with various tips.
As to "how to" there are a few YouTube vids out there with various tips.
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Went out there a bit ago - and when I came back - I discovered @Third From Texas 's post about removing the bumper. I did the same. Reason was that mine on my M1089 was bent all to heck and I removed and replaced the old warped thing I had. Made it even better to access.
The grille on my truck was "fuzzy" with "fiberglass hair" all over it. Being cheap, I used some rattle can bed liner on it - and dang it looks good! Been about nine months and it still looks as good as the day it was done.
It took a 6ft cheater pipe to get the passenger side off mine but the bumper being on helped i put the extention thru the round hole beside the big square hole in the bumper kept the ext straight
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A handful of cleverly used extensions, universal joints, etc.
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Well.. that was fun.. NOT.… started with passenger side because consensus agrees that it’s the easier of the 2…
- plenty oh PB Blaster for a week
- raised cab to get the bolt as perpendicular to the ground granting the most access to the 30mm nut
-M18 w/30mm 6Pt impact socket…. Nada..
-3/4 air impact - nada.. started the round the captive bolt head on top though
-30mm mega wrench with 3 foot cheater…nada…(great cardio work out though)
torch it until cherry red…. repeat the 3 above steps…..nada..
something about the definition of insanity keeps playing in my head at this point..
since all 4 OEM cab bushings are MIA , as a stop gap I used 3 hockey pucks with a 30mm center hole…. I then cut the puck , splayed it open using a piston ring spreader and shoved it around the 30mm sleeve/bolt for both the upper and lower passenger side and upper only on the god awful drivers side, place a SS “zip tie” around the puck for IDGAF at this point . Thus far it seems to “work” for an unholy cob job…
my intent is to cut the sleeve/bolt mid point, after “securing “ the cab so it won’t shift, remove the pieces/parts, and since I dont have the means to raise the cab to remove the intact bolts, I’ll use new M20 1.5 x110mm bolts/ nuts and insert the bolt from the bottom with the nut on top now being “captive”…. In theory this should be less of a PITA…. Of course the drivers side will be the death of me…
- plenty oh PB Blaster for a week
- raised cab to get the bolt as perpendicular to the ground granting the most access to the 30mm nut
-M18 w/30mm 6Pt impact socket…. Nada..
-3/4 air impact - nada.. started the round the captive bolt head on top though
-30mm mega wrench with 3 foot cheater…nada…(great cardio work out though)
torch it until cherry red…. repeat the 3 above steps…..nada..
something about the definition of insanity keeps playing in my head at this point..
since all 4 OEM cab bushings are MIA , as a stop gap I used 3 hockey pucks with a 30mm center hole…. I then cut the puck , splayed it open using a piston ring spreader and shoved it around the 30mm sleeve/bolt for both the upper and lower passenger side and upper only on the god awful drivers side, place a SS “zip tie” around the puck for IDGAF at this point . Thus far it seems to “work” for an unholy cob job…
my intent is to cut the sleeve/bolt mid point, after “securing “ the cab so it won’t shift, remove the pieces/parts, and since I dont have the means to raise the cab to remove the intact bolts, I’ll use new M20 1.5 x110mm bolts/ nuts and insert the bolt from the bottom with the nut on top now being “captive”…. In theory this should be less of a PITA…. Of course the drivers side will be the death of me…
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Wow, that's quite an adventure.
When I had mine apart, I did take measurements of the sleeve, if you need to make a new one. Mine was pretty rusty and nasty, but it should be close enough to figure something out.
If I remember, the bolt is almost impossible to find new, for some reason. Maybe it's a high grade bolt, or has a special thread, but I couldn't find an exact replacement anywhere (e.g. McMaster, Fastenal, specialty bolt manufactures, etc.). I think I even looked for the next closest size, but wasn't able to use it because it was only partially threaded and wouldn't have tightened up far enough. Ugh. If you find a source, please share.
Great thinking outside the box and maybe use a stainless hose clamp around it just because its wider ! And i wasnt kidding on the looong cheater pipe i just knew the 3/4 ratched head was going to explode but she finally poped the nut loose !
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Also, I know everyone has their own pet penetrating oil, but I have gotten the best results from Kroil. It tends to do very well in any "torture test" videos/articles out there too. I put it in a tiny needle dropper bottle, and try to get it inside anything I can (e.g. washer gaps, nuts, exposed threads, etc.).
Applicator Bottle with 25ga Stainless Steel Needle - 6 Pack: Hair Color Applicator Bottles: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Applicator Bottle with 25ga Stainless Steel Needle - 6 Pack: Hair Color Applicator Bottles: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
smile.amazon.com
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- Daytona, FL
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Fastenal Industrial Supplies, OEM Fasteners, Safety Products & More
Fastenal is the largest fastener distributor in North America. Shop our huge selection of OEM, MRO, construction, industrial, and safety products.
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I totally agree theres nothing like that red stuff and they make it here in Nashville