Changing the Harmonic Balancer Questions any advice or comment?

[Jozseph]

I am changing the Harmonic Balancer, ordered a Fluidampr, from reviewing posting it is best to also change the;

Front Seal -
Key - GM part number 106751
Bolt -

I already order the M16 X 1.5 puller bolt.

Anyone know off hand the GM part numbers for the front seal and the attaching bolt?

I am changing the bolt as the instruction from Fluidampr state ;

"BOLTS ARE TORQUE TO YIELD, NEW BOLTS MUST BE USED EVERYTIME."

Any advice or comments?

Thank You
Joseph

 

[ken]

I'm surprised it does not come with a new bolt. The stock replacement HB comes with a new bolt. The bolt is not long enough to be used to press the new balancer on. You will have to tap in on a ways before you can finish pulling it on with the bolt. I don't like hitting a crankshaft my self. So I made a step washer on my Lathe so I can use the bolt for the whole installation. You will need to remove the flywheel cover and use something to jam in it to keep the engine from turning over while tightening the bolt. Otherwise you will just spin the engine and never get it tight. The new front seal is ACDELCO 29601. I don't have the bolt PN. I have pondered swapping to a Fluid Dampr myself. Let us know if the engine seams smoother with it.

 

[Jozseph]

SNIP..... "So I made a step washer on my Lathe so I can use the bolt for the whole installation"......SNIP

Ken could you post a photo of the wahser you made?

Thank You

Joseph

 

[Sharecropper]

When I got my M1028 it had 12,338 original actual miles, however there was a little vibration I didn't like, so I purchased and installed a Fluidampr. The vibration immediately disappeared and now it is smooth as silk. The Fluidampr is kinda pricey but much cheaper than an engine overhaul later on. I truly believe most folk fail to recognize the importance of the HB, which is nothing more than 2 rings of steel vulcanized together with rubber. These trucks are over 30 years old and as the rubber becomes hard and brittle, it loses its ability to dampen the harmonics of the 8 explosions per engine revolution.

If I remember correctly I went to Tractor Supply and got a longer Grade 8 metric bolt and flat washer to pull the HB up on the shaft unil the new bolt could be threaded in several threads.

Hope this helps.

 

[Barrman]

Just use the puller shaft with a washer on it and turn the puller "block" to press the balancer on. It works fine.

 

[ken]

The puller I have does not screw into the crankshaft threads. It has a flat plate that goes in the bore of the balancer and pushed on the crankshaft face. On the washer I made, I made the bore big enough to clear the socket. With the step deep enough to let the bolt threads start into the crankshaft. On the back side I turned a boss to fit inside the bore of the balancer. I have a few 6.2 and 6.4 powered trucks so I have used it a lot.

 

[Tinstar]

This has been covered in detail several times.
All the part numbers and bolt sizes are included.

I bought the longer bolt and large washer for install and it worked perfect.
Installed a new ACDELCO HB and it's been flawless.

 

[honda]

I have pondered swapping to a Fluid Dampr myself. Let us know if the engine seams smoother with it.

One of the five best improvements I made to my truck. A bit pricey, but in my opinion, well worth the coins.

 

[dc_cucv]

This has been covered in detail several times.
All the part numbers and bolt sizes are included.

I bought the longer bolt and large washer for install and it worked perfect.
Installed a new ACDELCO HB and it's been flawless.

The problem with your "this has been covered in detail many times" slogan (that i see on this site wayyyy too much by the way), is that THIS SITE IS FULL OF DEAD LINKS. Not sure if at some point the site structure changed, but literally half the time i search for stuff I am led to a dead link.

If you don't want to answer someone's post, DON'T RESPOND TO IT.

It literally does no one any good to hear "it's been covered before". Waste of your time for replying and ours for reading.

It's a real turn off as a somewhat new member to see this so much is all these posts.

If coming here to ask questions is frowned upon then why have the site? I'm sure most people who post questions on here have already tried to look for the answer themselves, hence asking for help on here.


Question for Fluid Dampr owners:

Now, with that said, I am also dropping the 500 doll hairs on a fluid dampr, but am a little confused about the bolt not fitting.
Would i need a different size crank bolt altogether? Could someone give the size/part number/etc?

Thanks!!

 

[ezgn]

The problem with your "this has been covered in detail many times" slogan (that i see on this site wayyyy too much by the way), is that THIS SITE IS FULL OF DEAD LINKS. Not sure if at some point the site structure changed, but literally half the time i search for stuff I am led to a dead link.

If you don't want to answer someone's post, DON'T RESPOND TO IT.

It literally does no one any good to hear "it's been covered before". Waste of your time for replying and ours for reading.

It's a real turn off as a somewhat new member to see this so much is all these posts.

If coming here to ask questions is frowned upon then why have the site? I'm sure most people who post questions on here have already tried to look for the answer themselves, hence asking for help on here.


Question for Fluid Dampr owners:

Now, with that said, I am also dropping the 500 doll hairs on a fluid dampr, but am a little confused about the bolt not fitting.
Would i need a different size crank bolt altogether? Could someone give the size/part number/etc?

Thanks!!

I think on a fluid damper you use a spacer with the same original bolt.https://leroydiesel.com/products/fluid-damper-for-ds4-or-db2/

 

[dc_cucv]

I have :
800191 as the Fluid Dampr part number for the HB.
GM 296-01 for the seal
GM 106751 for the woodruff key

Any idea what the bolt part number is? Honestly if I'm going as far as to spend close to $550 in the parts above after it's all said and done, I'd want to go ahead and replace the bolt too.

 

[dc_cucv]

ok found it if anyone else ever needs it
GM, Bolt, 14022672

800191 as the Fluid Dampr part number for the HB.
GM 296-01 for the seal
GM 106751 for the woodruff key
GM, Bolt, 14022672

 

[Tinstar]

The problem with your "this has been covered in detail many times" slogan (that i see on this site wayyyy too much by the way), is that THIS SITE IS FULL OF DEAD LINKS. Not sure if at some point the site structure changed, but literally half the time i search for stuff I am led to a dead link.

If you don't want to answer someone's post, DON'T RESPOND TO IT.

It literally does no one any good to hear "it's been covered before". Waste of your time for replying and ours for reading.

It's a real turn off as a somewhat new member to see this so much is all these posts.

If coming here to ask questions is frowned upon then why have the site? I'm sure most people who post questions on here have already tried to look for the answer themselves, hence asking for help on here.


Question for Fluid Dampr owners:

Now, with that said, I am also dropping the 500 doll hairs on a fluid dampr, but am a little confused about the bolt not fitting.
Would i need a different size crank bolt altogether? Could someone give the size/part number/etc?

Thanks!!

Point taken

I did a search just now and found all the information and part numbers needed for items discussed.

Took 5 minutes.

The point of that post is the information is almost always available in older post.
This keeps the forums from having dozens of identical threads asking the exact same question.

I do agree about the links as I’ve clicked on many dead ones myself.

 

[kraut83]

I put a fluidamper on 3+ years ago and will never look back. Truck runs much better than before. I had a shop available so I welded together a longer bolt to do the pressing then installed a new bolt for the final torque down. I did have the motor out and replaced any rubber part I could get me fingers on while I had the space available for easy access. Feels good to have the peace of mind knowing that all the rubber is now only 3 years old.

 

[dc_cucv]

Point taken

I did a search just now and found all the information and part numbers needed for items discussed.

Took 5 minutes.

The point of that post is the information is almost always available in older post.
This keeps the forums from having dozens of identical threads asking the exact same question.

I do agree about the links as I’ve clicked on many dead ones myself.

Did Steel Soldiers at some point change website host or developer to cause older posts to not link correctly? Ive only been on here a year.

 

[Mullaney]

Did Steel Soldiers at some point change website host or developer to cause older posts to not link correctly? Ive only been on here a year.

.
I believe the best source for that answer would be @patracy

 

[patracy]

The problem with your "this has been covered in detail many times" slogan (that i see on this site wayyyy too much by the way), is that THIS SITE IS FULL OF DEAD LINKS. Not sure if at some point the site structure changed, but literally half the time i search for stuff I am led to a dead link.

If you don't want to answer someone's post, DON'T RESPOND TO IT.

It literally does no one any good to hear "it's been covered before". Waste of your time for replying and ours for reading.

It's a real turn off as a somewhat new member to see this so much is all these posts.

If coming here to ask questions is frowned upon then why have the site? I'm sure most people who post questions on here have already tried to look for the answer themselves, hence asking for help on here.


Question for Fluid Dampr owners:

Now, with that said, I am also dropping the 500 doll hairs on a fluid dampr, but am a little confused about the bolt not fitting.
Would i need a different size crank bolt altogether? Could someone give the size/part number/etc?

Thanks!!

Did Steel Soldiers at some point change website host or developer to cause older posts to not link correctly? Ive only been on here a year.

This thread started back in 2017. If there's external links, there's bound to have dead links in 5 years. There's no way around link rot for external links.

We have a rule about "RTM" type responses. The one you responded to was again 5 years old. I'm not sure when that rule was put in place, but it's likely after that. The other statements you made is why the rule was in place. But consider the fact an age of a thread before bringing this up.

The site has been in existence for decades. It's gone through several changes over the years. There most certainly are some dead links. If it's a internal link to something for the steel soldiers domain, please report the post and we'll see about correcting the link. If it's something external, you can report it as well, but unless it's for a fresh link to the same/similar info, the post/link would just be deleted to clean things up.