Changing Tires

[Lextreme]

I did few searches and still no luck. I am trying to take out my rear right tires. On the Passenger side the nuts are the standard thread (Lefty Lucy and Righty Tighty). I have the questions about the stud. It used 7/8" square. I would assume the loosen it would be counter clockwise. Please let me know if I am wrong. I tried to use a 1/2" impact gun with adapter and still no luck. I just want to make sure I am not turning the wrong direction to loosen the wheel studs.

 

[moving chicane]

Yes Lefty loosey. otherwise you wouldn't be able to torque the nut.

 

[Lextreme]

I driver side is opposite thread....

 

[PETE BALLARD]

Note when working on BUDD wheel configuration both inner and outer nuts tighten and loosen the same way or direction. But do not mix the parts side to side as all parts are side specific - note the l and r markings somewhere on the nut itself. all units marked "L" are on the left side and all "R" are on the right. All marked "L" come off opposite direction the ones marked "R"

 

[RAYZER]

Yes. And turning them toward the back of the truck on either side loosens them.

 

[PETE BALLARD]

One last word of advise, you WILL need a larger impact. I have found that sometimes even with a 1" impact I cannot loosen them without shocking the square head with a 5 lb hand sledge, just enought to flex it and break the corrosion between the inner cone nut and the mounting stud. Do not use heat as you will destroy the temper in the metal and never heat the rim with the tire under pressure. You might want to go to a tire shop to get these loose if you don't have the correct equipment.

 

[Lextreme]

Great....... greatly appreciate your inputs.....

 

[MWMULES]

Just making sure you have removed the 1 1/2" Budd nut first. For duals 1 big nut first,2 outer wheel,3 Budd stud/thimble, 4 inner wheel. I hate to say it that way but have seen it happen before in the Army.

 

[doghead]

As silly as it sounds for a grown man to read a manual on how to change a tire, it works.

I would think it's easier to read the TM, than to post a thread.

Will you be posting another thread when you need to figure out how to and how much torque, to tighten the lug nuts and thimbles too?

So far, this thread was about lug nuts and thimbles, why not title it appropriately. Had you, you probably would see the other similar threads on the same topic. (we covered this in the last month, iirc).


here are just 2 that come up with a search for wheel stud (both would have helped you)

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...heel-stud&highlight=lug+nuts+left+hand+torque
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...ghlight=lug+nuts+left+hand+torque#post1298212

 

[PETE BALLARD]

One other item related to this subject that is not noted in the TM is that sometimes both the inner cone nut and the outer nut will come loose at the same time. If when loosening and this happens you will need to work your way around the hub assembly loosening each one a little at a time so you do not force the wheel studs out of the hub assembly. When you get the wheel off the inner and outer fasteners will need to be seperated, the tool most tire people call it is a "porkchop" don't know why unless it is a Midwest expression. It is merely a devise that holds the outer nut solid so you can drive the inner out out with the square socket.

 

[doghead]

The hand gear lug wrenches are good for that as well.

 

[Ford Mechanic]

The hand gear lug wrenches are good for that as well.

+1 just got mine! Works great!

 

[KsM715]

Just making sure you have removed the 1 1/2" Budd nut first. For duals 1 big nut first,2 outer wheel,3 Budd stud/thimble, 4 inner wheel. I hate to say it that way but have seen it happen before in the Army.

I have run into some guys that wrongly assumed it would be easier and faster to just remove the inner thimble and leave the dual wheels bolted together and remove them as one unit.

 

[rammer64]

Tighten to the front loosen to the rear.

 

[Lextreme]

Got it done yesterday. Purchased a 1" impact gun from HF and did the job with flying colors.... Thank you everyone.

 

[41cl8m5]

I was bending bars trying to to loosen my lugs and some just would not budge on my M35a2. I able to acquire a calibrated 3/4" torque wrench that was due for resert and I increased to setting until the lugs came loose. It was in the area of 600 - 650 ft. lbs. Twice as much as the required 325 to 350 torque the TM says to have. By the way, the torque wrench was recertified without needing adjustment afterward. The Maintanance unit that did the last service must have used a 1" impact and ratteled it for some time to get the lugs that tight. I'm glad that I did not have an issue on the road, like a flat, I would have been there for awhile and the cost, don't even think about going there.
I got a 3/4" ratchet wrench off the internet that is 24" long but will extend to 41", along with 3/4" extentions and a socket that does both sizes, also got a electronic torque measuring device, 3/4" male on one end and female on the other. Had it checked for accruatcy and it was only off 1 ft. lbs. at 350 ft. lbs., good enough for me. I try not to get stuff from China but for something that will sit in the Duece's tool box until its needed and the price for all of it at $200 give or take. Just having to get a 3/4" torque wrench is a heck of alot more than that. Its good insurance along with marking the lugs to see if there is any movement.

Got all the "stuff" from that site that starts with a "E" and ends with "y" did I do that?


Hope this info helps someone.

 

[Rambling Wreck]

I use a 10' long steel pipe on a my 3/4" drive, 20" breaker bar and it works quite well. The socket I use is an impact socket (1 1/2").