Charging Failiure

[ramdough]

I just did the conversion to a Delco 33I alternator, 24v and 100amps. I already had a Bussman 100A converter/equalizer that I was using to equalize the two batteries (as soon as they were connected in series, the one battery would drain the other down). Rather than an ignition switch, I installed a keyed switch that turns on batteries remotely through an electronic disconnect and I also installed one between the two batteries. Now when the key is off, no electricity can flow anywhere, including between the two batteries. So the equalizer has been unnecessary since I did that, but when my regulator stopped working on my last trip, I decided to look for alternatives and since I already had the converter, it worked out great.
The new alternator has much narrower lugs, so I machined a slot for the rear lug in the original mount and machined a bushing to fit between the fwd lug and mount, to give it the correct back spacing.
I was also able to get rid of the PPD sinView attachment 896485View attachment 896486View attachment 896487View attachment 896488ce the Bussmann unit already has it inside. I can happily report that it's working great!View attachment 896485View attachment 896486View attachment 896485View attachment 896486View attachment 896487

What disconnect did you use?


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[ramdough]

I just did the conversion to a Delco 33I alternator, 24v and 100amps. I already had a Bussman 100A converter/equalizer that I was using to equalize the two batteries (as soon as they were connected in series, the one battery would drain the other down). Rather than an ignition switch, I installed a keyed switch that turns on batteries remotely through an electronic disconnect and I also installed one between the two batteries. Now when the key is off, no electricity can flow anywhere, including between the two batteries. So the equalizer has been unnecessary since I did that, but when my regulator stopped working on my last trip, I decided to look for alternatives and since I already had the converter, it worked out great.
The new alternator has much narrower lugs, so I machined a slot for the rear lug in the original mount and machined a bushing to fit between the fwd lug and mount, to give it the correct back spacing.
I was also able to get rid of the PPD sinView attachment 896485View attachment 896486View attachment 896487View attachment 896488ce the Bussmann unit already has it inside. I can happily report that it's working great!View attachment 896485View attachment 896486View attachment 896485View attachment 896486View attachment 896487

Looks great! What disconnect did you use?


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[Ronmar]

I just did the conversion to a Delco 33I alternator, 24v and 100amps.

Besides being commonly available, another good thing about that series of alt is that they also have a remote sense input. This allows you to run a sense wire to the battery + terminal so the alt can adjust its output to deliver its rated voltage AT the batteries. Because of losses on heavily loaded lines between alt and battery, the actual charge voltage being delivered to the battery can be a little low. The sense line having no load on it can accurately relay the actual battery voltage to the alt for its regulator to use as a reference.

This would be a good thing if batteries are a long way away from the alt(ours are a little ways away), or in a heavily loaded system, such as one that is also feeding energy to house batteries…

 

[CONJIN]

Looks great! What disconnect did you use?


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Thanks. Painless wiring p/n#30204. They have been working great.
I have 2 extra of them if you're interested

 

[CONJIN]

Besides being commonly available, another good thing about that series of alt is that they also have a remote sense input. This allows you to run a sense wire to the battery + terminal so the alt can adjust its output to deliver its rated voltage AT the batteries. Because of losses on heavily loaded lines between alt and battery, the actual charge voltage being delivered to the battery can be a little low. The sense line having no load on it can accurately relay the actual battery voltage to the alt for its regulator to use as a reference.

This would be a good thing if batteries are a long way away from the alt(ours are a little ways away), or in a heavily loaded system, such as one that is also feeding energy to house batteries…

I did see that, but haven't looked into it. I do have some LIFpo house batteries on a tray under the bed, for camping, but they're only 200ah. I was planning on changing them, when on the road, using the 24v system and attaching it to the solar charge controller, instead of the solar panels. So I guess the sense line would be a good idea.

 

[ramdough]

Thanks. Painless wiring p/n#30204. They have been working great.
I have 2 extra of them if you're interested View attachment 896527

Sent you a PM


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[CONJIN]

Besides being commonly available, another good thing about that series of alt is that they also have a remote sense input. This allows you to run a sense wire to the battery + terminal so the alt can adjust its output to deliver its rated voltage AT the batteries. Because of losses on heavily loaded lines between alt and battery, the actual charge voltage being delivered to the battery can be a little low. The sense line having no load on it can accurately relay the actual battery voltage to the alt for its regulator to use as a reference.

This would be a good thing if batteries are a long way away from the alt(ours are a little ways away), or in a heavily loaded system, such as one that is also feeding energy to house batteries…

Came across this 24v A/C compressor while researching cheaper A/C systems. It says 60 amps and now Im wondering if the Delco 100 amp alternator would run this and charge the two group 31 wet cell batteries (plus the regular things)? Sure would be a lot easier to install and cheaper!

 

[Ronmar]

Well worst case a 100ah group 31 wet cell bank will try and draw 25A. If it is charged, the load will be nothing significant. Lighting load is 10-15A@24V. Not sure what the rest of the loads total up to @24v... so best case probably within its limit, worst case slightly overloaded...

 

[CONJIN]

Well worst case a 100ah group 31 wet cell bank will try and draw 25A. If it is charged, the load will be nothing significant. Lighting load is 10-15A@24V. Not sure what the rest of the loads total up to @24v... so best case probably within its limit, worst case slightly overloaded...

Thanks Ron. The lighting load should be even less since it's all LED now and my plan would be to remove the evaporator from the unit and slide it under the heater core in the original unit, if it will fit.

 

[Ronmar]

There isnot much room in there. Was going to make a center console for mine to put tge evap in front of the intake, and add a drip pan...

 

[CONJIN]

There isnot much room in there. Was going to make a center console for mine to put tge evap in front of the intake, and add a drip pan...

yes, it might be too thick. I can't do a center console because my kids sit in the middle

 

[coachgeo]

I just did the conversion to a Delco 33I alternator, ... The new alternator has much narrower lugs, so I machined a slot for the rear lug in the original mount and machined a bushing to fit between the fwd lug and mount, to give it the correct back spacing....View attachment 896488ce the Bussmann unit already has it inside. I can happily report that it's working great!

nice mount mod. question for us that do not have ability to machine this nicely.... what about just cutting across the bottom with sawzall then use grinder to compete the mod. Essentualy just removing the area in the red rectangle and grind small notch to final align hole in the alt's rear ear to brackets hole. ? Would be easier than tying to slot the bracke this nice. Or do you feel that would weaken bracket too much, especially after adding the spacer infront to bump the Delco type alt. further forward to align the pulleys

 

[Ronmar]

nice mount mod. question for us that do not have ability to machine this nicely.... what about just cutting across the bottom with sawzall then use grinder to compete the mod. Essentualy just removing the area in the red rectangle and grind small notch to final align hole in the alt's rear ear to brackets hole. ? Would be easier than tying to slot the bracke this nice. Or do you feel that would weaken bracket too much, especially after adding the spacer infront to bump the Delco type alt. further forward to align the pulleys

View attachment 902698View attachment 902698

You could do either with a sawsall or a portaband in just a few minutes. Cleaning up the notch with a die grinder. I like the handheld bandsaw for this job as the cut is more precise/controllable. I would make the front and rear cuts straight to depth, and then cut inside those lines and remove the center metal in a series of triangles. The handheld bandsaw has the edge here also as it has a thinner/narrower blade...

You could also drill a hole ~width of the notch to form the bottom of the notch and make 2 precise cuts to intersect the edges of the hole, then cleanup with a die grinder or hand file...

Woukd take longer to get the mount off than to do the mod...

By leaving the rear piece intact you still have an option to re-install a mil alt...