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Charlie's Deuce Thread

Charlie175

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VA 22849
Started my own thread for my Deuce(s)

This one is my main focus right now. it's a 1970 M756a2, last of the line per the serial # check. Fire Co had it from 1996 to 2009 and then turned it in for a A3 model. Sat around until 2019 when Gov. sold it. I got it from the guy that bought it, still the same mileage from the sold certificate.


Changed all the engine fluids, fuel filter o ring was a pain to get at so I removed the housing to look at it better. It was stuck in there tight. My Carquest O rings didn't match so I ordered the NAPA compatible ring set. Waiting on them to come in. Maybe one day I will do the conversion...
 

Charlie175

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Yes I drove it home (10 miles). Took a bit to get it going (Me learning to trouble shoot the issues), plus the in tank pump wasn't working and the tank has a pin hole (I thought this was lucky as all the bad fuel drained out). Epoxied the hole, primed the system and got it running. It was weak coming home on the hills but ran OK otherwise.
Hopefully now with a fluid change and filters and the in tank pump functioning it runs better. I bypassed the FDC also.
 

Charlie175

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Removed the old canvas top and installed a slightly used one that I got from a member here (Thanks
Tehachapi Guy)

. It's a insulated vinyl one that I hope gives me years of protection.
Went on easy enough, only issue is the passenger side forward snap does not align. Might have to add another snap to get it to work.
 

Charlie175

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Assuming my windshield hasn't been moved since the stone age, am I getting into something bad trying to lower it? My shop door is 8' and the only way I can see to get it in is to lower the windshield, remove the mirrors and upper stack. As well as the bed rails.
 

SCSG-G4

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Do NOT leave canvas/vinyl tops on 24/7/365. They will deteriorate if in the sun or exposed to extremes of weather. If you can park in a garage, away from the blazing sun, the pouring rain and the howling winds, you can get decades of use. Exposed to the elements it will be two years to show deterioration and four to require replacement.
 

Charlie175

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VA 22849
Do NOT leave canvas/vinyl tops on 24/7/365. They will deteriorate if in the sun or exposed to extremes of weather. If you can park in a garage, away from the blazing sun, the pouring rain and the howling winds, you can get decades of use. Exposed to the elements it will be two years to show deterioration and four to require replacement.
Drat. I have no inside storage for a truck of this size.
 

SCSG-G4

PSVB 3003
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Drat. I have no inside storage for a truck of this size.
Put a larger sacrificial tarp over it to keep the sun and rain from getting to it. I generally keep my cargo covers in a container unless using them, and have almost finished converting my fleet to hard top cabs. I have a tan cargo cover that was on for a year, where it has been exposed to the sun, it's pink! YMMV.
 

HDN

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Finger Lakes Region, NY
Do NOT leave canvas/vinyl tops on 24/7/365. They will deteriorate if in the sun or exposed to extremes of weather. If you can park in a garage, away from the blazing sun, the pouring rain and the howling winds, you can get decades of use. Exposed to the elements it will be two years to show deterioration and four to require replacement.
For what it's worth, my truck has had the same vinyl tops on it for at least the past 10 years and has always sat outside, mostly next to a barn well away from trees. As its new owner I started putting a tarp over the cab for winter storage. That said, the insulated cab top is in better shape than the bed top, which has started leaking a little bit this past year. When I get a new top for the bed I may consider removing it and the bows for the winter.
 

BKubu

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Gaithersburg, MD
Assuming my windshield hasn't been moved since the stone age, am I getting into something bad trying to lower it? My shop door is 8' and the only way I can see to get it in is to lower the windshield, remove the mirrors and upper stack. As well as the bed rails.
You can lower the windshield frame. Just hit the fasteners with some PB Blaster or similar. While it is down, you may want to change the rubber seal under the A-pillar. You should be able to find something suitable at Home Depot.
 

Charlie175

Well-known member
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63
Location
VA 22849
Evening update. I will try and remember to get the gopro out next time.
Installed a boost gauge so I can see what it is doing since I bypassed the FDC. I didn't change the fuel screw yet. Right now at full throttle I am getting 8 to 9 PSI. I think this should be safe zone. Truck has more power since redoing the filters. Need to get it on the open road yet to get a better feel.
Idle was much higher after the bypass so adjusted that down to 800. Seems happy there.
trouble shot the oil pressure issue, the gauge does not register when unplugged from the sender with power on. Next engine run it pegged at 60 psi and then eventually went to 0 and never came back.
 

Charlie175

Well-known member
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Location
VA 22849
Forgot to ask, I have the soft cab. The loops at the bottom for the super cord are below the cab hooks. How does it tighten down?
I stuck a 1/2" wood dowel thru the loops and in the cab hooks to help some for now.
 
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HDN

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Location
Finger Lakes Region, NY
Forgot to ask, I have the soft cab. The loops at the bottom for the super cord are below the cab hooks. How does it tighten down?
I stuck a 1/2" wood dowel thru the loops and in the cab hooks to help some for now.
The insulated vinyl top on my truck does not go past the loops on the back. Perhaps the top on your truck has stretched, or there's something off with the roof bows?
 
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