Check your front wheel studs

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73m819

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Guys check your front wheel studs for cracks, could be a real seat grabber if you loose a front tire. This SHOULD be part of your PRETRIP inspection.

1-- Some of our trucks ( a lot) have the ORIGINAL BUILD studs, some as old as 60 years (though new studs are also at risk), EVERY time a wheel is changed the stud is STRETCHED, after time the stud will start to crack. Some company's change the studs every time a brake job is done just for this reason.
2-- A lot of guys are putting BIG tires on the front, a lot of times the ORIGINAL stud is used, these big tires put a HE11 of a load on the studs, EVEN NEW STUDS. You guys with the super single 900 5tons, and the a3 deuces, check you studs real close, that is a LOT of tire load on the standard stud.
3-- A bad or loose bearing will cause a vibration that can cause the studs to crack.
4-- Not having the rim TIGHT against the hub WILL cause the stud to crack.
5-- A BENT rim WILL cause the stud to crack
6-- Just because they look ok does not mean they are, take a 3 lb. or so hammer and hit the stud/nut, listen for a tone change, if you here the different tone, it is cracked and if 1 is cracked change all 6/10
7-- If a lug nut seem to want to come loose, suspect a cracked stud.
8--REMEMBER THE WHEEL STUD IS THE ONLY CONNECTION BETWEEN THE TRUCK AND THE ROAD.

The reason I posted the above is that I discovered a few cracked studs on the m819, so figured that since I had a few, others would have some.
 
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bill2444

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I have a commercial International that is having a problem with loosening nuts after new tires this year. I'm going to check the studs now, thanks for the tip.
 

USAFSS-ColdWarrior

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Has anyone reading this every experienced a front wheel jettison?

Many years ago (I was 17, circa 1975), while riding shotgun in an International Transtar Cabover tractor-trailer, we jettisoned the left front wheel and tire on a Pennsylvania Interstate somewhere near Harrisburg. Had a partial load of bundled newspapers in the front of the trailer which probably helped the front of the tractor from dipping too drastically. As we watched the wheel cross the median, the driver was able to nurse the rig gently to the righthand shoulder. No one was "hurt" but the PTSD Flashbacks of the Driver's "@#$$%%^&#*@" exclamations still ring in my ears whenever I think about the event.

Road Service was called by the State Police and we were back on the road in under 2 hours.

-----------
 

Jesse6325

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One really does NOT want to find out what kind of damage a tire/wheel can do to whatever gets in it's way after it parts company with the vehicle.
Not to mention the fun ride if you have either singles or it's a steer that lets go.
 

ARYankee

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I, for one, really appreciate the reminder. These threads are really good for everyone. I'll be taking a closer look at mine now.
 

gringeltaube

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Good reminder-thread, Ron! (since most of us don't inspect them regularly - if ever......)
Now, that wasn't on the RH front axle hub of the "Flying Wrecker"....?:p


On a serious note, especially for the front wheels: besides hitting a curb or large obstacle; even minor front axle (death)wobble; wheel/ tire unbalance; ... all that means extra-stressing those studs! Such condition should be addressed ASAP!

The only good thing is that the OEM studs (NOT some of the cheap aftermarkets!) can actually take a lot of abuse before letting go - and they never fail simultaneously; the REAL BAD thing: no red warning lamps for this....!

So YES, keep a good eye on those studs/nuts while "on the ground" and stop driving immediately if you feel any abnormal vibration...!


G.
 

3dAngus

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That's a good post Ron. Very professionally written.
I'll check mine, but not sure how to do it fully. Would I have to remove those 400 pound wheels? Magnifying glass?

Any further recommendation on how one would go about making a cursory look without removing all wheels.
I'm sure all people won't be doing that, but I do want to do all I can do without a days worth of work involved. I will check them thourally the next time wheels are off, or, better yet, replace them with new ones I purchased and have on stock. I've already had the rears replaced when the hubs were reversed.

Keep up the good work Ron. These kinds of posts are gratifying to read here on SS. Good to have the "Flying Wrecker" :driver: back in service.

Remember that old lady.... "Now THAT was some GOOD DRIVING" [thumbzup]
 

73m819

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That's a good post Ron. Very professionally written.
I'll check mine, but not sure how to do it fully. Would I have to remove those 400 pound wheels? Magnifying glass?

Any further recommendation on how one would go about making a cursory look without removing all wheels.
I'm sure all people won't be doing that, but I do want to do all I can do without a days worth of work involved. I will check them thourally the next time wheels are off, or, better yet, replace them with new ones I purchased and have on stock. I've already had the rears replaced when the hubs were reversed.

Keep up the good work Ron. These kinds of posts are gratifying to read here on SS. Good to have the "Flying Wrecker" :driver: back in service.

Remember that old lady.... "Now THAT was some GOOD DRIVING" [thumbzup]
1-- Hit the stud/nut with a hammer, the tone changes with a cracked stud, If you find ONE cracked stud, REPLACE them ALL.
2-- Check the tightness of the nuts (don't over tighten), if the nut seem loose just a bit and comes back loose, find out why, look for a cracked stud.
3-- Look for a just a bit of a angled nut (not seated square), a cracked stud most likly the cause.
4-- Just looking, a crack is HARD to see, wire brushing, cleaning, ect. helps but unless it is a blatent crack, you WILL NOT see it, the stud needs to be UNDER LOAD (stretch) to see it. Magnifiying glass?, I guess?, they do make crack detection kits that have a spray dye and a special light, either way the studs need to come out to do the test/look, might as well just replace the studs with GOOD new ones and start over fresh.
5-- The crack can be anywhere in the stud from right past the pressed in part in the shank to somewhere in the thread, can be in the nut portion of the stud threads (even pulling some nut threads)
6-- Again on of the best ways to check for cracks in almost anything is lightly smacking the item to be tested with a hammer, a crack gives a DIFFERENT tone.
7-- Just because the FRONT WHEEL STUDS are new, does not mean that they won't crack because of wheel and use DYNAMICS
8-- There is NO REASON not to check your FRONT WHEEL STUDS everytime you take the truck out, that minute or so of time it takes could save yours or someone elses life. If nothing else, will save the cost of the visit to the butt doctor to have the seat removed
.
 
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m1010plowboy

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Check you studs and your nuts

Seemed like the right thread to bump for a weekly safety blurb. The OP had everyone in his thoughts when he posted this.

We just did a rim and tire swap on the M1010 and took the time to inspect each stud. Good advice! We just checked the wheels after 50+ miles of rallying and most needed a re-torque back to 140ft lbs. Spent another hour with tools torquing u-bolts, drive shaft mounts and anything with a nut.

The stud, nut check thread.
 

73m819

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I know, old thread, but I figured we could use a reminder...
I noticed one of my front lugnuts was loose when doing some bodywork. I put the socket on to tighten it, and the stud broke off from the weight of the socket/breaker bar. Thankfully I was parked in the driveway when it came off!

Just finished replacing all 6 on that wheel, and made a little how-to:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiWspxJ7ns4&feature=youtu.be
Look REAL good at the offending hub and tires, look for WHY the cracked stud, just old age to bad/pitted bearing, cupped tire, hit a major hole at speed, there is 100 & 1 reasons for a cracked stud, TRY to find out the reason for your cracked stud, then FIX it
 

m1010plowboy

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Check your nuts! I did a winter tire swap recently following bolt-up pattern and torque on every wheel, I'm positive. I had to post because I lost a wheel nut by the time we hit the farm 40 miles away. Checking your studs at the same time you're swapping wheels out is just good advice...or at least yearly...or after operation intervals. I don't think it was a broken stud that caused the lost nut rather this stud was just broken and didn't count to 32 when I changed tires.

P6091556.JPG

I discovered the missing nut on the pre-highway re-torque before I yanked a Bobcat back to the City. Naturally, looking through appropriate old thread titles to bump good information forward, I find Ron's thread. RIP sir. I had a sense he might have been standing behind me while I looked for a replacement nut in the bush and re-torqued all 95 nuts I had remaining.
Fortunately, or designed by intent, the wheel nuts on the trailer fit the truck and the wheel nut on the Bobcat fits the trailer so I was rolling.

P6091557.JPGP6091558.JPG

This isn't something I'd normally notice so thanks to all for the good advice over the years........." stop smashing the top of your shiny nut-caps when you ram the socket on them"......." those trailer rims are only two years old so that's the last time you'll by cheap rims".

P6091555.JPG
 

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