Checking out/Buying M109A3 on Friday, what do I need to look out for?

[ironmike4134]

Hi found a 1966 Kaiser Jeep M109A3 from a private seller (he has done a lot of work, brakes, air system, paint, leak repair, radiator, etc.). I am looking at on Friday 1/5/18 and hope to get some pointers on what to check. I will open the air system to drain and check that (he mentioned that he has a leak, so first concern, guage is new so will check that it has and is holding pressure (80)), I plan to check for leaks at all wheels (but brake wheel and master cylinders and brake shoes are all new). Will check out axle boots. He says he did fiberglass and rubber work on the roof of the Van, but he still has a leak. I will be looking for rust (he has never had the panels down, but did redo windows). I will also check underneath for rust (can I see the Van flooring from underneath), in the pictures I just see (from top) what looks like wood flooring in the Van). It appears to be a non turbo motor (assume the LD-465 or LDS-465... how do you tell?). What are other things to check on this year/model?

 

[Jericho]

you have covered it pretty well, on the box look under the floor just behind the rear most set of wheel trucks up into the floor, They like to rust just where the cab walls round to the rear doors, The channels in the exterior walls like to catch water and rust, look for popped rivits. Roof rust on the panel seams and in the reont on the round over transition to the flat roof. Wiring is easy , quick ops check and a multimeter is all that's needed to check out the fuse panel and blower panel, You will be lucky if he has the cable end to plug in the shore power receptical, they are rare , I haven't found one in good shape in more than eight years of looking, finally replaced the van body side to solve it. Box floor tends to rot at the cornrs by the rear doors, For the box thats it, Cab rust likes to work into the cab by the side footwell vents , look from the inside about where your heals would be when driving. Air pressure gauge rubber hose is frequently rotted, just a quick look confirms it, Pull the air brake air tanks and check for rust/condition. , Check brake master reservoir and vent line under drivers floor board for condition, Fluid level . Emergency brake, Does it hold? brakes, good pedal. front wheel drive lock in transfer high low operation, springs, shackles, condition , bout sums it up bought mine off Bolling AFB, drove it home an hour later 28 hours straight thru, no issues, ( fuel and oil filters, CHANGE as soon as you get it along with all fluids!

 

[porkysplace]

Here is a nice pamplet on deuces.

GTA-9-1-1851-8.pdf M35 complete diagram of with descriptions of all components.

 

[cbrTodd]

As far as the box goes, if there was any kind of roof leak, plan on going in and taking out the wood floor if you are planning to fix the rust that it would have created. Mine didn't look too bad from the bottom, but I swept up 8 gallons of rust prior to cutting out all the sheet metal in the floor and replacing it with new. Also plan on taking out the inner sheet metal panels and confirming how much rust is in the walls. I'd plan your cost / time estimate to fix it around it being substantial. Mine had spray foam insulation, which was a real pain to take out, but some have fiberglass so you might get lucky.

You can take a look at my build thread if you want to see what I had to deal with on mine.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?136003-My-Build-Thread-M909-Recreational-Vehicle

 

[ironmike4134]

I bought the M109A3 along with the M105 trailer that come with it. Nice truck. Rust on the floor of the shop van and a little on the walls... definitely need to strip it completely (but that is why I bought it, turning it into a tailgate/party truck). Hope to put seats inside the van as well to take large groups on these outings. Also will eventually cut a path between cab and van. Will probably use an air bladder to maintain a seal. The biggest problem besides the rust that I found was one of the air tanks had leaks (removed and braised and now have 100+ PSI. Brakes are great... drove it 75 miles (at 54mph) hauling the trailer to get home and it rides really nice and straight. This thing pretty much sat for the past couple of years, so next steps are to replace filters and fluids. Also still have an air leak under the dash.

 

[cattlerepairman]

Air leak under the dash is the rubber hose that goes to the air pressure gauge. Common defect. Have a place make you a new hose, a tad longer than the original and you are golden. Also check the air valve in the passenger side foot well; sometimes that gets kicked open.

 

[porkysplace]

I would also look for a replacement air tank , I'm not a big fan of patching air system parts . Brakes are not a area to cut corners on .

 

[ironmike4134]

Got it.

 

[rustystud]

I would also look for a replacement air tank , I'm not a big fan of patching air system parts . Brakes are not a area to cut corners on .

Totally agree here !!! That's why on the extra air tanks I've installed they were all "stainless steel" ! You can find them on eBay all day long.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I have some air tanks if your not worried about stainless, i also have the correct secondary fuel filters with correct gaskets. PM if interested.