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Civilian Plug Wires?

Baron3-6

New member
62
2
0
Location
KY/TN
So after trouble shooting fuel, air, and spark since September....I've come to the conclusion that it's either my plug wires or the previous owner who had reassembled my engine block that's causing weak or inconsistent spark. I'd like to do the wires before I tear it all apart.

Are there any civilian plug wires that will work? Something I can rig up under $100? My original military wires look good....but the ohm readings are iffy.

All I can get is a series of pops, coughing, and backfire. Even wired directly from the battery to the coil tonight, 24.8+V is getting there.

Everything else I've done:

Engine @ TDC when first cranked (checked #6 piston hole on head), distributor and oil pump installed as per rebuild TM. All fluids correct amount. Last owner told me he had aligned the timing marks when assembling the block.

Fuel: New Carter fuel pump, pumping great now with good pressure. Fuel getting to carb. Original Carb just rebuilt by M-Series, almost factory new.

Air: Intake / exhaust manifold disassembled, cleaned, mounted with new gaskets. Air filter has not yet been put on carb for start-up.

Spark: New coil, New rotor, new dist cap, fresh 14 gau wire running from coil to ignition switch (line filter removed). New petronix pointless ignition set installed. New battery lines and ground. 2 new 12v batteries. 6 new autolite plugs gaped to spec.

Oh and not to mention: Water pump tore apart, cleaned, resealed; new thermostat, new hoses, new belt, radiator bench flush "best 60 year old radiator I've ever seen" (fellow who drove M-37's in the 1960's worked on it).

Now I'm to the point of aua
 

Baron3-6

New member
62
2
0
Location
KY/TN
Well, I finally got the truck started yesterday......and after all the work, she is a strong runner!

Here was the issue: When I reset the engine to TDC to install the oil pump and distributor, I used the hole over the #6 cylinder to find TDC (as #6 is up at the same time as #1). Problem is, #6 was on it's compression stroke, while #1 was actually on the exhaust! This put the timing 180 degrees off....the fact I was actually getting the engine to cough sputter despite being 180 out was what was confusing. Removing the valve covers and looking them over was the key. Thanks to Charles over at M-Series Rebuild for the help in figuring out the problem!

Now on to more stuff to fix up!
 

pwrwagonfire

New member
652
5
0
Location
Central Massachusetts
What did you end up with for plug wires?

I tried to get a new set of civilian ones from the local auto parts store (my buddy's parents own it). The parts I was sold are the EXACT perfect match, except they are way too short.
 

Baron3-6

New member
62
2
0
Location
KY/TN
My original set proved to be good. My suggestion would be to email the manufacturer of the wires that are too short and see if they have a part number for the same fittings, only longer. I recall someone in the large M37 picture thread had posted a picture of their M37 with blue civie plug wires....I'm guessing your civie PW does not have the screw-down type military plug lines as the M37? That'd make fitting it easier...

I ran your 1957 W300 3/4 ton through napa.com and got this set:

NAPA AUTO PARTS
 
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