• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

class 4 trailer hitch m1008

M1009 Fiend

New member
213
0
0
Location
Costa Mesa/Corona, Ca
Get a "step bumper hitch" they are cheap, and you can bolt it under your bumper.... You will have to drill some more holes or get a welder but it is all you really need. Mine works great.
Can you post some pictures of your setup i like the idea but cant see how or/what you are mounted to in my head.
Thanks
 
41
16
8
Location
Virginia
Sorry to revive an old thread. I see folks talking about having to cut parts and remove rivets to get a hitch to install. My truck was rear-ended when a previous owner had it and it appears to be missing some of the bumper supports (#3 in picture 2) so I am reluctant to install a step bumper hitch or a pintle on the bumper. I also don't see any rivets that should need to come out. Everything including the lift extensions appear to be bolted in place. What specifically needs to be cut?

Rear Frame.png
Rear Frame 2.png
2020-06-28 11.49.33.jpg
2021-11-16 12.44.29.jpg2021-11-16 12.45.17.jpg
2021-11-16 12.44.34.jpg
 

M813rc

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,047
2,679
113
Location
Near Austin, Texas
Here is how I did mine on my M1028A2.
The hitch itself came off a friend's junk M1008 (with his permission!) and was on it when he bought it at auction off Fort Hood.
We basically copied what the military had done, but welded an additional plate to the hitch to add a tad more strength to the tow shackles, since part of their support had been cut off.
Since the Army put this hitch on, the installation can be termed "military correct". :)
Everything is bolted on, so removable if needed.

Note - in the second and third pictures, the first cut was vertical, then angled as needed to fit.

The hitch itself had a Uhaul sticker on it, but no manufacturer tag, so I don't know what model it is.

The only drawback to this installation was that the spare tire no longer fits under the truck, just barely not enough room now. :cautious:

Since the light output from the 1028 is 12v, I made a simple adapter cable that uses the military plug. I used butt connectors in case I wanted to take the civvy end off and replace it with a different type. After that photo was taken, I put a heat-shrink tube over the connectors.

Cheers


20170731_114334b.jpg20170731_114407.jpg20170731_114427.jpg20170731_123216.jpg20170731_135138.jpg20170731_151353.jpgThe end product - before heat shrink.jpg
 
Last edited:

rspring

New member
5
1
3
Location
Fayetteville NC
I ended up building a custom welded and bolted on hitch for mine. It is extremely strong and easily surpasses the capability of the trucks' brakes. I won't pull more than 5k pounds on a routine basis anyway.
 
41
16
8
Location
Virginia
I actually took the bumper and bumper reinforcements off today to try to wrap my mind around what needs to be removed. As far as I can tell there are two welds I can cut and remove the lower section in the bottom two photos.

If I chop the bottom tube which is the best part number for a no-drill hitch installation? Class III or IV is fine.

PXL_20211216_211636280.jpgPXL_20211216_213606500.jpgPXL_20211216_220213221.NIGHT.jpgPXL_20211216_220226329.NIGHT.jpg
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks