Cleaned M1078A1 Power Distribution Panel (PDP)

[hike]

@GeneralDisorder and @Ronmar both shared solid suggestions to clean our PDP and update the circuit breakers and relays.





We found a mix of their suggestions and other sources to clean and replace our aging electrical bits and pieces. We used compressed air, a small paint brush, and a micro fiber cloth; then DetoxIt to prepare the connections.



Then we replaced all the critical circuit breakers and relays while reusing some of the older relays in slots we expect to either not require or may need in the future.



This 'placeholder' circuit breaker is interesting.



After doing this I wonder if using standard ATO blade fuses rather than waterproof circuit breakers would have been better? I can look to see if an ATO blade is bad, how do I know if one of these is bad?

All in all we are happy with the results, hopefully they will last another 20 years. Next is to figure out why the ABS dash warning light came on once we replaced the battery disconnect relay—

 

[Ronmar]

Mmmm Purty…

you will need a voltmeter to see if they are passing voltage

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Mmmm Purty…

you will need a voltmeter to see if they are passing voltage

I prefer to use an incandescent test light (scope on a rope) and a power source. This proves they can carry amps not just pass continuity.

Everyone that's inclined to troubleshoot and repair their own vehicle should have a test light (and a DVOM) and know the basics on how to use them.

I quite like these and keep one in each vehicle:

https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003798001-Circuit-Tester/dp/B003C54934

 

[hike]

Mmmm Purty…

you will need a voltmeter to see if they are passing voltage

I have one, though I should have followed your advice and just gotten common ATO blade fuses. These weren't expensive, though will certainly be more time consuming to check—

 

[hike]

I prefer to use an incandescent test light (scope on a rope) and a power source. This proves they can carry amps not just pass continuity.

Everyone that's inclined to troubleshoot and repair their own vehicle should have a test light (and a DVOM) and know the basics on how to use them.

I quite like these and keep one in each vehicle:

https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003798001-Circuit-Tester/dp/B003C54934

I have a test light in my bag, too. One from NAPA though that Hella unit looks well built—

 

[GeneralDisorder]

I have a test light in my bag, too. One from NAPA though that Hella unit looks well built—

Just make sure it's not an LED or "digital" test light as those are basically worthless since they can't apply an actual load.

 

[Ronmar]

Yea there is a couple ways to fry the fish. Loading the circuit is definitely a good thing to be able to do….

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Yea there is a couple ways to fry the fish. Loading the circuit is definitely a good thing to be able to do….

I've run across an alarming number of relays over the years with burnt contacts that would pass a cursory voltmeter check but wouldn't carry any load. And plenty of circuits where 12v or 24v was present on a DVOM but when load is applied the voltage goes away due to corrosion somewhere in the circuit, etc.

The concern I would have with auto-resetting circuit breakers is they are only good for so many trips before it affects their blow curve and they could stop carrying their rated load without nuisance tripping, etc. On the other hand you have no chance of resetting a blown fuse so...... I would carry spares of each size and also fuses as backups.

These are useful if you are inclined to test circuit amperage draw:

https://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Specialties-Fuse-Buddy-Mini/dp/B083TCDQBH

 

[Ronmar]

I've run across an alarming number of relays over the years with burnt contacts that would pass a cursory voltmeter check but wouldn't carry any load. And plenty of circuits where 12v or 24v was present on a DVOM but when load is applied the voltage goes away due to corrosion somewhere in the circuit, etc.

The concern I would have with auto-resetting circuit breakers is they are only good for so many trips before it affects their blow curve and they could stop carrying their rated load without nuisance tripping, etc. On the other hand you have no chance of resetting a blown fuse so...... I would carry spares of each size and also fuses as backups.

These are useful if you are inclined to test circuit amperage draw:

https://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Specialties-Fuse-Buddy-Mini/dp/B083TCDQBH

Exactly, voltage isn’t good until tested under load. I feel the same way about CBs in automotive applications. Prefer fuses, but the CBs can be handy when chasing a intermittent overload issue. I kept the best in each size from my panel when I started going thru it and installed fuses…