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Cleaning out a sludgy fuel tank?? How?
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clinto
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Radiator shops can do it, but it isn't cheap. I priced a local radiator shop to do one and they said it was $225 to boil it out and reseal the inside.
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I took mine to a semi truck repair shop just down the road that did it for 27$. 
devilman96
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I've done a heap of tanks over the years... muratic acid... took about 3 gallons to do the deuce.... add acid and water 50/50... roll around... add acid... roll around... let sit... roll around... (30 or so minutes of this) rinse... repeat as needed...
Check for leaks before reinstalling... If you have rust pin holes this (or any) cleaning process will find them for you in a hurry... You can solder the tank easily with acid core if anything comes up.
Check for leaks before reinstalling... If you have rust pin holes this (or any) cleaning process will find them for you in a hurry... You can solder the tank easily with acid core if anything comes up.
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The tanks have two baffles inside and it's very difficult to clean the baffled off areas. I cut access openings in the tank I'm preparing for the xm757. The tank comes from an M52A2 5-ton tractor and will receive a heating coil and temperature sending probe(s) as well.
The circular access holes are 4 inches in dia and I use a Scotchbrite pad for scouring the insides by hand.
The holes are sealed with plates from a "donor" tank for material compatibility.
The circular access holes are 4 inches in dia and I use a Scotchbrite pad for scouring the insides by hand.
The holes are sealed with plates from a "donor" tank for material compatibility.
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$225 seems high.Perhaps the shop was busy or not very interested.One near me uses a heated caustic liquid.Results may be disappionting but I have only rad exper here.I have dumped a cans of gumout and laquer thinner,let sit a day, then used a pressure washer with hot water. Works but messy and fire hazard.
Muriatic acid (~40% HCL-hydrochloric) is cheap. Never tried that but devilman has, sounds like a winner.
I have a 5 gal bucket for rust removal. Full strenght. Note it is also VERY dangerous. My bucket was left inside with the lid loose.A year later I was shocked to see most every thing in the garage made of Aluminum has turned white.The face on A/C welder nearby- unreadable...most chrome all has green tint... even 40 ft away stuff on shelfs show signs of corrosion. Never had that before...Bucket now resides outside.
It's cheap($5/gal??) at Home depo ( they may have just stopped carrying it) maybe Lowes, or a pool supplier.
Both carb cleaner and HCL can ruin parts when least expected. A pal left a motorcycle cyl in overnight(carb cleaner) and in the morning found it almost gone.
Check the tank for galvanized surface.I think mine is, on the outside anyways.HCL will take it off in seconds.
Save the used stuff for rustly parts. Leave bucket outside. Plastic pail only. Make sure kids don't get at it.
JimK
Muriatic acid (~40% HCL-hydrochloric) is cheap. Never tried that but devilman has, sounds like a winner.
I have a 5 gal bucket for rust removal. Full strenght. Note it is also VERY dangerous. My bucket was left inside with the lid loose.A year later I was shocked to see most every thing in the garage made of Aluminum has turned white.The face on A/C welder nearby- unreadable...most chrome all has green tint... even 40 ft away stuff on shelfs show signs of corrosion. Never had that before...Bucket now resides outside.
It's cheap($5/gal??) at Home depo ( they may have just stopped carrying it) maybe Lowes, or a pool supplier.
Both carb cleaner and HCL can ruin parts when least expected. A pal left a motorcycle cyl in overnight(carb cleaner) and in the morning found it almost gone.
Check the tank for galvanized surface.I think mine is, on the outside anyways.HCL will take it off in seconds.
Save the used stuff for rustly parts. Leave bucket outside. Plastic pail only. Make sure kids don't get at it.
JimK
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Stuff a dry towel in hole and turn upside down.Rock a bit and let sit a while. A wet surface won't be a problem just mop up anything that puddles. Let sit in sun if it makes you feel better. JimK
rmgill
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I dried my 2nd tank after rinsing it with water to get loose crud out of it after it sat for a year and dried out. I used a catalytic heater aimed at the outside to heat up the metal and warm it up.
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Do a final rinse with alcohol, that will take care of any left over moisture even mix with the fuel and burn it harmlessly. See "Heet" and other winter fuel treatment products.
guner51
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fuel tank
I had one that I pressure washed were I could get to it .Then Tied it to my tractor tire so it would rotate and put in a gal. can of nuts and bolts , then headed for the field .
After about half a day the rust scail was gone . Cleaned everything out put 4 Qts.
of tank sealer and out in the field I went (only for a few rounds) drained the excess
and dried it. Did the sealer thing a few times and it turned out great.
I had one that I pressure washed were I could get to it .Then Tied it to my tractor tire so it would rotate and put in a gal. can of nuts and bolts , then headed for the field .
After about half a day the rust scail was gone . Cleaned everything out put 4 Qts.
of tank sealer and out in the field I went (only for a few rounds) drained the excess
and dried it. Did the sealer thing a few times and it turned out great.
devilman96
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RE: fuel tank
Man guner... It was ether be cleaned or be beat to death hu? LOL
Man guner... It was ether be cleaned or be beat to death hu? LOL
Did your tank looked anything like this? I ended up buying a 5 gallon bucket of Berryman's Carb Cleaner and letting it soak overnight. I turned the tank over and let he cleaner clean each side. I filtered the cleaner after I was done. A good preasure washing finished the job. Since your carb needs work also you can kill two birds at the same time (clean the carb first)
One word of caution. The stuff stinks
and your better half may make you sleep on the couch for a couple of days. Speaking from experience....LOL
One word of caution. The stuff stinks
and your better half may make you sleep on the couch for a couple of days. Speaking from experience....LOLAttachments
Last edited:
Crash_AF
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I have the same problem on my 53 gasser deuce. My only problem with Muratic Acid is finding an environmentally friendly way to dispose of it after it's been contaminated with fuel residue. Any suggestions? (BTW, the radiator shop near me wanted $175 to clean the tank)
Later,
Joe
Later,
Joe
dabtl
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I am going to speak to some radiator repair folks. I think they deal with sludge problems and such daily.
I understand there is coating applied to tanks which have been cleaned to prevent rust.
Rust is the enemy! I hate rust!
OK, now I feel better. I still think rust is the major problem. Sludge in the bottom of the tank is not in the fuel system. I think?
I still think rust is the major problem. I will check out what the radiator people say and report back.
Did I mention I hate rust?
I understand there is coating applied to tanks which have been cleaned to prevent rust.
Rust is the enemy! I hate rust!
OK, now I feel better. I still think rust is the major problem. Sludge in the bottom of the tank is not in the fuel system. I think?
I still think rust is the major problem. I will check out what the radiator people say and report back.
Did I mention I hate rust?
randyscycle
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A lot of fuel tank cleaning depends on what the actual problem is.
If it is dried, crusted and rotten fuel, then something of a solvent is the best thing. Carburetor cleaner (the real caustic stuff in a 5 gallon bucket) works for this to dissolve and remove the old fuel. Follow this with a good detergent and you should be fine.
If it is rust, then the best thing is a weak solution of phosphoric acid and hot water to clean the inside of the tank converting the rust to a black surface ready to be sealed.
There is also a process using washing soda and a coathanger or bolt, along with a battery charger to remove the contaminats via electroalysis. The coathanger, or bolt in some cases acts as an anode and the tank becomes the cathode. It works, but take a bit of vigilance to keep changing out the coathanger/bolt as it gets contaminated with the material removed from the interior of the tank.
No matter what, muriatic acid isn't the best choice. It will work, but almost the instant you drain the tank, it will begin to rust that quickly. It is very caustic, and will find any weak spots in the tank. Neutralizing it is also a problem as well.
If it is dried, crusted and rotten fuel, then something of a solvent is the best thing. Carburetor cleaner (the real caustic stuff in a 5 gallon bucket) works for this to dissolve and remove the old fuel. Follow this with a good detergent and you should be fine.
If it is rust, then the best thing is a weak solution of phosphoric acid and hot water to clean the inside of the tank converting the rust to a black surface ready to be sealed.
There is also a process using washing soda and a coathanger or bolt, along with a battery charger to remove the contaminats via electroalysis. The coathanger, or bolt in some cases acts as an anode and the tank becomes the cathode. It works, but take a bit of vigilance to keep changing out the coathanger/bolt as it gets contaminated with the material removed from the interior of the tank.
No matter what, muriatic acid isn't the best choice. It will work, but almost the instant you drain the tank, it will begin to rust that quickly. It is very caustic, and will find any weak spots in the tank. Neutralizing it is also a problem as well.
Barrman
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Both of my Gasser M35's had tanks that looked bad. Both also were so weak that they actually broke while I was removing them from the trucks to clean. I would suggest you push and tap on the entire tank before you spend any money on it. I have a multifuel tank on my Gasser now since I couldn't find a decent Gasser tank near me for a price I wanted to pay.
My M715 28 gallon cost me $52 at the local radiator shop to get cleaned. The same shop charged another M715 owner $65 for cleaning and solder patching of a few holes. A 50 gallon M35 tank should be about $100 or maybe a little bit more for cleaning at a good shop.
My M715 28 gallon cost me $52 at the local radiator shop to get cleaned. The same shop charged another M715 owner $65 for cleaning and solder patching of a few holes. A 50 gallon M35 tank should be about $100 or maybe a little bit more for cleaning at a good shop.
Memphisdoug
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What I Did
I once cleaned a plastic snowmobile gas tank that was gunked up with old gas/oil mixture. I mixed up a batch of TSP and swished it around in the tank for awhile. It took care of all the old sludge without a problem.
I once cleaned a plastic snowmobile gas tank that was gunked up with old gas/oil mixture. I mixed up a batch of TSP and swished it around in the tank for awhile. It took care of all the old sludge without a problem.
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disposing of muriatic acid
As earlier posts show, hydrochloric (muriatic) acid is a problem, as it vaporizes easily and can corrode nearby items. Randyscycle mentions phosphoric acid, which is the principle ingredient of "rust reformer" and probably a better bet to remove rust without causing further damage.
As to disposing of used acid, I suggest putting it in a tall pail and dropping baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) into it carefully, avoiding splashing . You can get large boxes sold retail by Arm and Hammer. To be a little safer, you can mix it with water and feed it into the acid using a hose with the end submerged. Take your time, as the reaction will generate some heat and a lot of carbon dioxide gas. After bubbling stops when new baking soda is added, the acid is neutralized. The liquid can then be put in the sewer, as can weak diluted acid.
What to do about the oily sludge portion? I don't really know. Since it won't mix with water, can it be skimmed off and mixed with kitty litter and then disposed of in a landfill?
As earlier posts show, hydrochloric (muriatic) acid is a problem, as it vaporizes easily and can corrode nearby items. Randyscycle mentions phosphoric acid, which is the principle ingredient of "rust reformer" and probably a better bet to remove rust without causing further damage.
As to disposing of used acid, I suggest putting it in a tall pail and dropping baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) into it carefully, avoiding splashing . You can get large boxes sold retail by Arm and Hammer. To be a little safer, you can mix it with water and feed it into the acid using a hose with the end submerged. Take your time, as the reaction will generate some heat and a lot of carbon dioxide gas. After bubbling stops when new baking soda is added, the acid is neutralized. The liquid can then be put in the sewer, as can weak diluted acid.
What to do about the oily sludge portion? I don't really know. Since it won't mix with water, can it be skimmed off and mixed with kitty litter and then disposed of in a landfill?
MouseGirl
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Used my hands to remove what I could then a shop vac, the Acetone . Now I have really clean tanks.