Cleaning out large fuel tank

[Jeepsinker]

Crawdaddy, have you put fuel in this tank yet? If not it would be a great idea to weld in a threaded bung in the bottom for draining off water.

 

[Crawdaddy]

Unfortunately, I've already got a couple hundred gallons in it. I'm trying to take advantage of the recently lower fuel prices. There is a threaded bung in the bottom, but it's stuck. I would have to drill it out or something.

But, I really should have for multiple reasons. When I stuck the tank after the last filling, I felt a nice layer of crud below the level of the output ball valve. I'm pretty confident this is just sediment and not the inside of the tank rusting. The current plan it to make a PVC suction pipe and attempt to use a pump to suck most of the sediment out of the bottom of the tank through the fill port and let it settle out of the diesel before filtering and pumping it back in. I took some shortcuts, and now I'm paying for them.

 

[Jeepsinker]

I have a few o the aluminum 600 gallon fuel pods over here. If you want one I could probably sell it to you for less than $1 a gallon, which is the going rate for a used fuel storage tank.

 

[Jeepsinker]

For the Goldenrod filter assembly, the tractor supply water block element is only a 30 micron. Napa carries a 10 micron water block element for it. The number is 4042 Gold.

 

[Crawdaddy]

I ordered the Goldenrod waterblock filter off amazon. It was a few dollars cheaper with free shipping. I'm not sure which filter it has, but I think it's the 10 micron. If not, I'll pick up the Napa one you mentioned.

 

[Crawdaddy]

When I'm plumbing this up, does it matter if I use galvanized or black pipe?

 

[cuad4u]

I would not use galvanized. Some people have posted that diesel fuel "does not like" galvanized pipe. I would go with "black iron" pipe.

 

[Jeepsinker]

You can use the black iron pipe. Just be sure to keep the water content at a minimum or you'll have lots of rust to contend with. Stainless is best but pricey of course. I used galvanized and haven't seen any ill effect. Diesel is supposed to pick up the sulphur from the galvanized coating, which honestly wouldn't be a bad deal for our trucks. Newer trucks would have problems with it though.

 

[Crawdaddy]

Today I finished plumbing up the tank. I used black pipe and pipe dope. The ball valve in front is for using the pump to fill the tank by putting the dispenser in the fill port on the top of the tank. It's plugged off for now until I get a hose for it. It still needs paint on the fittings and putting the DOT placards and labels on the tank, but it's done. I'm also thinking I might put a brace from the frame to the T-fitting to give the piping more support.

 

[Jeepsinker]

You shouldn't need any bracing for that fitting, but it won't hurt anything to add it. The structure looks pretty well self supported.

 

[Trailboss]

Looks good. I'd just wedge a piece of wood under the pump to support the weight of the piping and pump.

 

[Crawdaddy]

The T-fitting I was referring to was the one coming out of the tank outlet. It sticks out pretty far and I'd hate to somehow break the valve and fitting off the bottom of the tank. Here's a more top-down shot of it.

 

[Trailboss]

Supporting the T can't hurt in the event that something hits the piping or some numbnut steps on it to get on top of the tank. However, the weight of the pump may make the T gradually tighten on the tank valve piping, pushing the filters down. If you have to lift the pump back up, the T will back off and potentially start leaking at the threads. Putting a support on the nipple between the T and the filters will probably accomplish both goals.

 

[Humpy]

Several months ago I spotted larger underground gas tanks being dug up so I stopped to have a looksee and it was very educational. I noted they used acetylene torch to cut holes big enough for a ladder to be inserted therein and a worker to get down inside so I asked lots of questions. They put in steam and lower sniffers into tank that tells them when it is safe to apply torch. They also use pressure washers. The company is out of North Carolina and all they do is go around and dig up underground tanks.

Another source for fuel tanks is 100lb propane tanks that are out of date. Also I have a 250 gal propane tank the data plate fell off of and gas company won't fill it so I am thinking it could be drilled and tapped, the plumbing on the top removed and filled with off road diesel. It would take 75 years for one of them to rust through.

It is my understanding that Sea Foam is a fuel stabilizer and helps control moisture in fuels thusly it would seam a can or two in a large tank would be a good idea.

 

[Jeepsinker]

There are many fuel additives that are more effective in diesel fuel than seafoam. Do some research before you buy. Generally, you get what you pay for in this instance. Check out "Clear Diesel" made by Power Service for fuel storage stabilizing. Sta-bil also makes a stabilizer, but it is expensive and overrated. Look up AFC-704, or 705, can't remember which. It is made by AXI International, and it is pricey but works well and goes a long way. 1 ounce treats 40 gallons, and one gallon treats 5000 gallons. The small dosing bottle (16oz??, maybe 8?) is $30, one gallon is $200.
You can go to their website, or look up their products on Diesel-fuels.com. Lots of good stuff there.

 

[Humpy]

I see lots of 55 gal drums that I think are polyethelene these days, blue and white mostly. Anyone ever used any of them? Reason I ask is the fuel tank on my backhoe is black and appears to be same plastic. Obviously you wouldn't want them exposed to sun light long term.

 

[Crawdaddy]

Yeah, I still haven't treated my fuel. I can't decide which one to go with. I feel I need a stabilizer and a biocide, but figuring out what brand will negatively interact with other brands of the biocide and stabilizer is confusing.

Which products from the Power Service line are the compatible diesel stabilizer and biocide? I keep running across the upper cylinder lube or whatever, which I'm not looking for.

 

[Humpy]

It is interesting in that I have about 10 plastic 5 gallon fuel cans for my backhoe. Some have been full for three years and not used and I keep looking in them before adding to backhoe and I don't see anything growing. Wonder if their being metal causes a reaction and plastic less reaction?????

 

[Jeepsinker]

They have a good airtight seal. That is the difference.

 

[rustystud]

Yeah, I still haven't treated my fuel. I can't decide which one to go with. I feel I need a stabilizer and a biocide, but figuring out what brand will negatively interact with other brands of the biocide and stabilizer is confusing.

Which products from the Power Service line are the compatible diesel stabilizer and biocide? I keep running across the upper cylinder lube or whatever, which I'm not looking for.

"Pri-D" is just about the best diesel fuel stabilizer on the market today. I have used it for years ! and the fuel I treated over 8 years ago is still good ! The anti-algae agent I use is "Bio-cide" . It is a good match with the "Pri-D" . Of course if you want to use "Pri-ocide" you have to buy a 55 gallon barrel. Actually "tim29stro" in California is thinking of buying a barrel and selling off smaller quantities if he can get enough people interested. I for one would go in if we can get the cost down to $50.00 .