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Cleaning?

nspctr1

Member
187
6
18
Location
San Antonio TX
Finally got a little time to clean up the rig. About 2" of dirt in the rear foot wells and battery box. How do you clean all the material out? I scooped up what I could with my hands and then hosed the rest but there is still some remaining. Will probably vacuum it but not sure if it will pick it all up. Pulled the air cleaner out, its dated June2012. I will replace it even tho it looks brand new but, there was a lot of sand etc in the housing. Is this some what normal? I cleaned it as best I could. Read the TM and will try and disassemble it when I get time and clean it better.
 

Action

Well-known member
3,576
1,558
113
Location
East Tennessee
hose out the floors and make sure drain holes are clear.
There is a rubber thingy (dickbill) on the bottom of the air cleaner canister. It is a few inches across and near the motor. Squeeze it and let the dirt fall out.
 

ryanruck

Active member
427
46
28
Location
Cincinnati, OH
Yep, like Action said, make sure your drain holes are clear. Also, there are supposed to be small drain passthroughs from some of the more closed off compartments to the drain hole areas. Those plug easily. You may even have to (judiciously) add a couple drain holes if your truck didn't have any already added, I did. :mrgreen: Then just keep hosing and pressure washing it out until it's all gone.

Make sure you hose out your A and B pillars thoroughly too. Lots of junk can get trapped in there.

My truck had a ton of river mud/sand/pebbles everywhere when I got it. I had to spend several hours cleaning everything since I was coating my tub with Lizard Skin and Monstaliner. Any leftover dirt would have resulted in poor adhesion so I had to be thorough.
 

bikeman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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501
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Location
Ft. Bragg, NC
Remember, the Army has big pools of clean water and just "floods out" the trucks sometimes.
 

NormB

Well-known member
1,220
72
48
Location
Cloverly,MD
Yep, like Action said, make sure your drain holes are clear. Also, there are supposed to be small drain passthroughs from some of the more closed off compartments to the drain hole areas. Those plug easily. You may even have to (judiciously) add a couple drain holes if your truck didn't have any already added, I did. :mrgreen: Then just keep hosing and pressure washing it out until it's all gone.
Make sure you hose out your A and B pillars thoroughly too. Lots of junk can get trapped in there.
My truck had a ton of river mud/sand/pebbles everywhere when I got it. I had to spend several hours cleaning everything since I was coating my tub with Lizard Skin and Monstaliner. Any leftover dirt would have resulted in poor adhesion so I had to be thorough.
Guy I bought mine from did a pretty good job hosing/pressure washing out the truck, replacing the hood and doing some general painting, but the more I get into it, what's up with all those pick axe holes in the floor?

Looks like they had DoD-approved patches made but there's a couple of 'em that are about 1x1/2" like some kind of infant predator burst out of the body of the truck. Definitely not bullet holes, and the patches are ridiculously large.

Couple weeks ago I took an angle grinder to the worst of 'em and sprayed 3M body rubberized coating on the areas - thinking eventually as I'm rolling around under the beast I might get snagged by one or two of 'em, but wow, how in the heck do these happen?
 

ryanruck

Active member
427
46
28
Location
Cincinnati, OH
Guy I bought mine from did a pretty good job hosing/pressure washing out the truck, replacing the hood and doing some general painting, but the more I get into it, what's up with all those pick axe holes in the floor?

Looks like they had DoD-approved patches made but there's a couple of 'em that are about 1x1/2" like some kind of infant predator burst out of the body of the truck. Definitely not bullet holes, and the patches are ridiculously large.

Couple weeks ago I took an angle grinder to the worst of 'em and sprayed 3M body rubberized coating on the areas - thinking eventually as I'm rolling around under the beast I might get snagged by one or two of 'em, but wow, how in the heck do these happen?
:eek: those would be some pretty big field expedient drain holes! 1x1/2"... Maybe a bayonet or hatchet was used to make them?

Thankfully mine didn't have anything like that when I got it so I was able to see where water was pooling worst and add what I needed. Got rubber plugs for most of them while leaving the factory ones open.
 

Jakob1944

New member
314
10
0
Location
Copperas Cove / Texas
:eek: those would be some pretty big field expedient drain holes! 1x1/2"... Maybe a bayonet or hatchet was used to make them?

Thankfully mine didn't have anything like that when I got it so I was able to see where water was pooling worst and add what I needed. Got rubber plugs for most of them while leaving the factory ones open.
Rubber plugs is a good idea......thanks for the tip
 

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,401
4,185
113
Location
Brentwood, Calif
Te factory holes are not sufficient to allow for the truck to drain correctly, or fast enough when lots of water is introduced during fording. Add to that floor padding, garbage, dirt, rocks etc and the truck won't drain.
 

Wire Fox

Well-known member
1,252
161
63
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
So. How do you remove the floor pads/ mats
What RWH said. Some of mine were really stuck down, but it really was just mud holding them in. Just keep an eye out for metal straps or brackets that run over top of any of the pads or mats, because you'll have to remove those before those mats can come out. I think that would be the pad for the driver side (pedals, IIRC) and the mats that wrap up onto the tunnel have a rod running over them that helps act as a retainer. Pretty much, it's going to be very obvious what's holding these down-if you don't see anything, it's probably just sticking.
 

Ddk2001

Member
90
7
8
Location
Folsom/CA
Just took all of the mats / insulation out of my HMMWV except for the front passenger side. That requires removing the heater - which is on my to-do list tonight . . . . The screw-down retainer bars are along the tunnel and at the foot of the two front seats.
 

nspctr1

Member
187
6
18
Location
San Antonio TX
Thx. the ones in the rear foot wells are really stuck. I didnt want to damage anything trying to remove them. I read in the TM where there were retaining straps on the front mats but couldn't see any on the rears. I will try again tomorrow.
 
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