Clogging fuel filter

[mead]

Hello all,
my son's 1985 m1028 fuel filter keeps clogging up. I replaced the gas tank 200 miles ago and filter clogged again. Could this be because of the fuel lines, which I did not replace? Is there another possible suspect?
thanks for any advice.

 

[firefox]

I would examine the filter and check to see if what is cloging the filter is
rust particles. If it is, then my guess would be that the fuel lines are
rusting out. You will probably have to find someone to make the replacement lines.
I think someone on here just had someone make him some. Maybe he will chime in.
GoodLuck

 

[61sleepercab]

After Firefox's look in the filter element you might run a piece of mechanics wire down a steel line and pull it out and see what comes out on the wire. You might try a electric pump pulling fuel out into a bucket to try to remove loose rust in lines. If lines are rusty, the permanent fix is new lines. Good luck Mark.

 

[southdave]

I just re redid my whole fuel system supply and return with new filters and houseings.. pardon the mess, just clean up the hacked up wiring
filter on pass, side is a FM100 with 150watt heater and water bowl think 10 or 15 micron the second one is 5 micron.. the third is a frame mount with a electic pump .. with 3/8 supply return line is 1/4 need about 10ft of both.. note the return from pump is it own line I tee into return farther back, I am running a larger pump from 6.5 and 10psi on lift pump so..

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I would examine the filter and check to see if what is cloging the filter is
rust particles. If it is, then my guess would be that the fuel lines are
rusting out. You will probably have to find someone to make the replacement lines.
I think someone on here just had someone make him some. Maybe he will chime in.
GoodLuck

They aren't hard to make. Just some flare fittings. Buy or rent a decent flaring tool, get the brake/fuel line at your favorite auto parts store, and away you go.

Consider spending a bit more and using the cupro-nickel stuff. It's very easy to work with and it's more corrosion resistant than stainless steel. (Which, I have heard, is NOT easy to work with.)

 

[firefox]

Is there a tool that makes the rounded type flare similar to the original flare on the end of the original fuel lines? I ask, because when you make a brake line flare it seems that the edge of the
flare is not very round and I am concerned that it will eat thru the rubber.

 

[Skinny]

You want an ISO flare, very common on Euro stuff.

Honestly, a flare is unnecessary. We are only talking a couple of pounds of pressure. If you get proper sized tube and hose, a good double set of clamps is overkill.

 

[Skinny]

View attachment 514463
I just re redid my whole fuel system supply and return with new filters and houseings.. pardon the mess, just clean up the hacked up wiring
filter on pass, side is a FM100 with 150watt heater and water bowl think 10 or 15 micron the second one is 5 micron.. the third is a frame mount with a electic pump .. with 3/8 supply return line is 1/4 need about 10ft of both.. note the return from pump is it own line I tee into return farther back, I am running a larger pump from 6.5 and 10psi on lift pump so..

You have pretty much the same system as me. You are not going to like servicing or draining bowls in that location. The only downside to the FM100, little on the messy side draining water.

 

[the skull]

On the flare, you can just do the first half of the inverted flare
operation, and not crimp the cone into the back half. Makes a
good hose barb. Use the copper-nickel stuff, it works very easy.
It's PRICEY but it works. You'll be glad you did

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

You want an ISO flare, very common on Euro stuff.

Honestly, a flare is unnecessary. We are only talking a couple of pounds of pressure. If you get proper sized tube and hose, a good double set of clamps is overkill.

Yep. Unless you want to keep it stock, and use metallic line with flare fittings, ordinary fuel rated hose will do just fine.


If you want the ISO flare, try the Mastercool flaring tool. I have one, and it is VERY nice.

http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i:aps,k:Mastercool Flaring Tool

 

[mead]

Thanks for all of the replies. My son was out of town and he and a friend ended up replacing the fuel filter and the fuel pump and the truck started. Hopefully I will get a chance to look at the used filter, or at least have him do it when he can.
I think the fuel lines should still be replaced, as they are the original ones, and are probably suspect.

 

[Skinny]

I would probably think that the fuel tank has the corrosion issues and not the lines themselves.

Good practice to cleaning up an old tank is put some solvent in it with an old chain, and give it ****. The chain will break up the rust build up. Then flush it out before reinstalling. I would recommend for the $75 a new sending unit as well as the rubber lines that go to the frame rail.

Welcome to owning a 30 year old truck. When I first bought my Cuck, the IP was leaking. Rather than risk damaging my new $500 purchase, I installed two FM100 filters and replaced every rubber component in the system. Knock on wood, have never had a single fuel related issue since. You just have to bite the bullet and put the time/money into it. If you piece it together, one component in the line up will leave you stranded eventually.

It's like having glow plug issues but only replacing one faulty GP. You simply have to do the resistor bypass, install all new AC Delco's, and check to make sure you card functions correctly. Same thing with the starter. Do the relay mod, check the torque on all the bolts, and make sure your batts are clean/charged. Doing only one repair in the list still leaves you with future troubles.

 

[mead]

My local mechanic said that diesel fuel actually helps to preserve metal, and he doubted that the lines or the tank would need to be replaced, although he had not actually seen the truck. Does that make any sense?

 

[Skinny]

Absolutely...if you filled the tank before storing

Condensation can corrode if the tank is not full. Also remember that any water separates out and sinks to the bottom. Water on the bottom can be pulled into the system and cause corrosion. Just keep in mind these things are 30 years old. Anything is possible and most of the time the entire system needs to be removed, cleaned, repaired, and put back in to service to ensure it works trouble free for many thousands of miles.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I would probably think that the fuel tank has the corrosion issues and not the lines themselves.

Or both.

 

[southdave]

My local mechanic said that diesel fuel actually helps to preserve metal, and he doubted that the lines or the tank would need to be replaced, although he had not actually seen the truck. Does that make any sense?

Mead I have a tank out of junker... if you need it, I am out by maysville my gf lives in Alexanderia, plus gimpy robb has a line of fuel filters I have about six of the oem box type and about two dozen filters if you need one or parts... I replaced all my with stanadyne fm100 crap ( fuel heater and water sensor) about 3yrs ago. So now tractor bobcat dump and hoe all have same filter.