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Clutch Replacement

cev65

New member
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Location
Keyser, wv
Getting ready to install a new clutch. Need suggestion on what to do since this is my first deuce clutch install. Should I just do a clutch disc or the whole shabang? I also am going to replace the rear main while I'm in there. Also where can I get a alignment tool for the clutch? Where is a good place to get a clutch at??
 
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steelandcanvas

Well-known member
6,187
85
48
Location
Southwestern Idaho
As long as you have it all apart, personally I would do it all, including re-surfacing the flywheel. Clutch parts can be found at numerous vendors. Erik's Surplus, Saturn Surplus, C & C, etc. An old, used input shaft works great for an alignment tool.
 

eagle4g63

Well-known member
1,544
34
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Location
North/west Indiana
There is loads of stuff on here about the clutch, search is good.

Now for a short answer then I'll let you look for the details.....Do the whole thing...the trans isn't the easiest thing to take out....very heavy.

I bought mine from C&C equipment....they are in lower Indiana, so not sure on the shipping to you.

Again search about the whole thing, I even had a thread about the very same thing you are asking about.
 

SCSG-G4

PSVB 3003
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,323
3,246
113
Location
Lexington, South Carolina
If you have a lathe (or a friend who does), you can make an alignment tool out of round steel stock. Take a 10 inch long piece of stock about 1.25 inches in diameter and first turn it down to 1.216. On what will be the front, reduce the diameter further for 1.5 inches down to .75 inches. Presto! (almost) instant aligning tool!2cents
 

Floridianson

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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2,485
113
Location
Interlachen Fl.
You have a hard top or soft. I love a soft to when doing a trans. Tall over head and a chain fall, I cheat and use a crane with a realy tall overhead and the trans. can be pushed into place with one hand as iti has so much swing cable. When I get the trans. pushed all the way in I use my foot to keep it up tight to the bell housing and my helper puts just the top bolt in snug then I feel comfortable takeing my foot off.
 

ptg530C

New member
175
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0
Location
almont, mi.
Rent a trans jack. take the trans out from the bottom. Not as bad as it looks. I would not replace the rear main if it does not need it and I would not r surface the flywheel if it does not need it. get the r/r manual and follow it. like i said its not too difficult if you are good with tools a 4 hour job. i would replace the trans lube while the trans is out.
 

cev65

New member
66
0
0
Location
Keyser, wv
Was up in the garage the other day and got looking at all the alignment tools i have from previous clutches i have put in. A alignment tool for a 7.3 powerstroke will work perfectlty!
 

PsycoBob

Member
211
11
18
Location
Auburn, NY
Replace 2 of the top-cover bolts with eye-bolts, with a nut to snug down against the cover. A short length of chain between them & a small come-a-long to a engine pick from the passenger side. I can swap a transmission in less than an hour, solo. Expect to remove the shift lever & reinstall it to help with aiming. Replace the brass bushing while you're in there. Don't forget to lube it before reinstalling the trans.

Uh, drain fluid first. May get messy otherwise.

If you pull the flywheel, get a bolt that matches the flywheel bolts- but 6+ inches long. Cut the head off & screw it into the crankshaft to help hold the weight. That bolt should replace the first bolt you remove & it should be the last one removed during reinstall.

Drop a bolt or two in the holes drilled around the edge of the flywheel to the chain/engine-pick to support the weight when lifting/lowering the flywheel. The crank bolts will only let it be reinstalled one way- expect to test-fit it repeatedly. It's a LOT heavier than you think it is. For added incentive, you'll likely be sitting under it, after lifting it to face height repeatedly, then trying for two full rotations to match the off-center crank bolt pattern...

Before you reinstall the fragile aluminum adapter ring, find the ground cable- if it's between the ring & engine/transmission when you tighten nearby bolts, you will break the adapter ring. Double & triple check this.

Remember to lube the throwout bearing & pivot points. Lube the u-jounts on the jackshaft & replace all the bolts with fine-thread grade-8's & all-metal pinch nuts. Add gear oil to the transmission & test it before reinstalling the jack-shaft.
 
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