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Clutch slipping, can it be adjusted?

crazywelder72

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If you're ok with doing a clutch, the rear main will be easy!

Just remove the transmission as you normally would. Then remove the clutch (got to anyhow). You'll most likely want to have the flywheel resurfaced given the history. The rear main on these trucks are simple. Just a driven in seal. I popped mine out with a large flatblade screwdriver. Then drove it back in with a brass hammer.

The flywheel most likely will be serviceable with just having it resurfaced. The pressure plate might also be serviceable as well provided the springs and feet are in good shape.
Its all apart. No problems thank God... That flywheel is one heavy bastard. Bringing the parts to the machine shop tomorrow. I was debating doing the refinishing myself on my Bridgeport since i have a rotary table but i think it wouldn't turn out as good. I have parts shipping in from all over the place.

These message boards are truly awesome. I have never dropped a transmission in any vehicle before and i was able to do it without any problems.
Thank you to everybody that takes the time to post about all the problems they run into and the ways to do it better the next time.

it all helps so much.
 

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doghead

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When you are ready to reinstall the flywheel, there is one hole that is not concentric with the rest of them. It's not off by much, but it will only work in one position. Now you know.
 

crazywelder72

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just got back form having the flywheel done:mrgreen: but he couldnt do the pressure plate :cry:.

so has anyone ever disassembled a pressure plate to resurface it? i will give it a go but i was looking for any torque specs for reassembling it.

on another note, flywheel bolts should be replaced correct? as should the drive shaft bolts? anything else? what about all the bell housing hardware?
 

doghead

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Right or wrong, I reuse the flywheel bolts.

The driveline bolts I also reuse if they still look and feel good. If not I replace them. I get new crush type grade 9 nuts at a local fastener shop.
 

crazywelder72

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DH,
Do you torque them or loctite or both? Also what is the easiest way to remove the rear main seal and pilot bushing?

Clinto, thanks for the link.

While it's disassembled:

Machine flywheel

Replace rear main seal and inspect crank for groove (use speedi sleeve if necessary)
Replace pilot bushing (it's a bushing, not a bearing)
Replace disc and pressure plate
Replace throwout bearing
Take the opportunity to clean the bellhousing and transmission
Reseal transmission (input bearing retainer & bellhousing-the bolt holes are open to gear oil).
Replace jackshaft nuts (there are plenty of threads explaining why).

Remember to mark the flywheel, as it only goes on the crank one way.

I used loctite on flywheel and pressure plate bolts.
Tech manual describes how to adjust the clutch linkage (there is a procedure).
Use a takeout input shaft to align the clutch disc-my clutch aligning tool was insufficient and I had to pull everything back apart and re-do it.


Does anyone have a pic of the crank in need of a speedi sleeve?
 

doghead

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Torque, locktite if you like it(I do).

Show a pic of your crankshaft. Some blocks have a removable seal retainer, some don't.

Drive a sheetrock screw into the seal, and use visegrips to pull it out.

If your crank hub is worn, you can see and feel it.
 

crazywelder72

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The seal is out and the inner black line around the crank has a score mark that you can feel. I dont know if there is a allowable tolerance or not but i now need to order a speedi-seal i believe.

i am glad i jumped the gun and ordered a normal rear main seal.

Also noticed the crank is marked with a X at one bolt hole location. I assume this is for the odd flywheel bolt pattern. I haven't looked to see if the flywheel is marked also.

I still need some info on the transmissions rear bearing cover since i noticed that mine has 2 cracks around the 2 top bolts. maybe its been like this for 10 years or maybe it is recent. I dont even want to waste my time welding it if i can replace it inexpensively.
 

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doghead

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So, if it is not listed in the -20P, we look at the -34P(higher level).

There is says,
TRANSMISSION, MECHINICAL (SEE
TM9-2520-246-34P FOR REPAIR​
PARTS)


 

crazywelder72

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Today I was ready to just puke I was so upset. In today's mail my Speedi-sleeve arrived. Thats the good thing, however I started looking around for my rear main seal I ordered. I know I ordered it but I don't remember seeing it. What the ... GRRRR. So I go to my computer to look thru all my emails and I see conformations for everything but the rear main. Getting nervous I started looking thru all my PayPal payments and nothing is adding up, just a lot of dollars. Now I am beyond frustrated and on the verge of just wanting to quit. So i look up the p/n again and start doing the surfing for the best price (again). I found one for a good price so I bought it. Shortly after submitting the payment I found a nondescript email order conformation from TNJ. It didn't say what the order was for, but after looking up the seal on their site I knew I ordered it from there. So now I will have 2 rear main seals.

As if its not bad enough that reciently i ordered 2 seals for the output shaft of the transfer case by accident. At least those went to a good home on the pay-it-forward page.

I am just exhausted from trying to keep track of everything on this clutch job.

friction disc = $75
pressure plate =$143
throwout bearing= $40
pilot bushing =$18
flywheel machining = $60
wrong seals =$24
transmission output seal = $15
rear main seal #1 = $12
rear main seal #2 = $24
speddi sleve = $69
1 ton chain fall = $40
and a few cans of brake clean and misc gaskets = $40

Am i missing anything?
 
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