My 1009 starts great in cold weather but then the idle increases and it dies after about five seconds. My starting sequence: Cycle the glow plugs twice. During the second cycle depress the accelerator to activate the cold start sylanoid. When the "wait to start" light goes out, I crank the engine and it starts right away, then idles high and dies. When I try to crank it again, it takes at least 30 seconds on the starter with the accelerator about half way down to get it to run. I have replaced all the glow plugs, and they seem to be cycling through the glow plug control card like they should. I bought a new fuel filter and will replace that tonight, but has anyone else had this experience and have they been able to solve it. I am in Nebraska with single digit temperature.
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cold start
- Thread starter rsh4364
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LittleM1010
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OK ... you have a female here with no knowledge of diesel (sorry to sterotype) and I got an M1010 for those snow days (instead of the sled I usually drive here in Ohio). It is cold and I have successfully drained the battery trying to get the girl to start. So I am gathering that I need 1) a block heater, 2) battery blankets or 60 watt heating pads, 3) oil pan heating pad, 4) Power Service Diesel Fuel treatment. FYI ... glow plugs are new so I know they are probably good. I have limited funds and figured the battery blankets/heating pad and the fuel treatment was easy enough but I will be attempting the install on the block heater myself (holding off of the oil pan for now). So the question is ... how easy is it do install and where is the stupid freeze plug? Anyone have a link that will tell me how to install one of these things? I am pretty good at following directions and good at fixing stuff around the house ... but a diesel truck is a new ballgame for me. Any help is appreciated!
cpf240
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Don't assume the glow plugs are working just because they are new. There is a nice glow plug system test procedure in the TM's. It's possible they are are not cycling the way they are supposed to. Possible causes could be the glow plug controller card, the glow plug relay, the big resistor on the firewall could be bad - though maybe you have done the 12v bypass mod?
In any case, with fully charged batteries, a good starter and functioning glow plugs, it should start, or at least try to.
In any case, with fully charged batteries, a good starter and functioning glow plugs, it should start, or at least try to.
Hasdrubal
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Pappydodd..If your truck starts and then dies after 5 seconds, you have air being introduced into your fuel system somewhere. This is not a glow plug issue. There are probably hundreds of threads on this, its a common problem many have had. Most likely cause is the o-ring on the fuel pressure sensor that sits in the back of your fuel filter base. It could also be any of your rubber fuel lines.
LittleM1010; dont assume your glowplugs are good. Test them; pull the leads, attach test light to + terminal, touch each plug, if it lights its good. The 6.2 will start in cold weather with none of the extras you are contemplating installing. Requirements to start a 6.2.In order of probability:
1) Glow plug system operating correctly
2) Fuel supply in sufficient quantity/pressure and free of air
3) Adequate cranking speed
4) Proper compression
LittleM1010; dont assume your glowplugs are good. Test them; pull the leads, attach test light to + terminal, touch each plug, if it lights its good. The 6.2 will start in cold weather with none of the extras you are contemplating installing. Requirements to start a 6.2.In order of probability:
1) Glow plug system operating correctly
2) Fuel supply in sufficient quantity/pressure and free of air
3) Adequate cranking speed
4) Proper compression
rsh4364
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Hasdrubal,are these the o-rings between the filter and filter base plate,and where can i purchase these o-rings,my 1009 runs awesome at anything above idle,but idles rough,seems like the more i change fuel filter the worse it idles.
My advice (coming from the great white north)- run the lightest oil you can and keep it warm. And have a good set of glow plugs and batteries. A oil pan heater might not warm the engine as a whole very much, but it keeps your oil warm and that's what matters IMO. I've seen videos of a 4cyl gas engine starting with the valve cover off at -25C, it took the oil a good 2 minutes to BARELY trickle out, i don't even wanna think what 15w40 would be like. And I've tried pouring 15w40 at these temperatures, it is literally like molasses, so thick you could almost scoop it up and dump it in with your hand faster than pouring, lol.
Lighter oil also lightens the load on the batteries because everything can spin faster. A good set of glow plugs should be able to do the rest of the work(...IF...your batteries are up to snuff). A coolant or block heater will just lighten the load on the glow plugs. Battery blankets do work when its not quite as cold but it gets so cold here if your battery is crap, you'll find out and a blanket wont do you any good
I use a 1500w coolant heater and a 75w glue/stick on oil pan pad heater. It's only 75w because 0w40 doesnt need the heat to thin it out that a heavier oil would.
For you guys/girls in the states with warmer winters id suggest 5w40 and a oil pan heater. A coolant or block heater will help the oil stay warm once the engine is running and the oil is circulating.
(very) Cold starts are one of the hardest things on an engine, especially with a diesel running heavier oil! It was -20c when i switched to 0w40 this year, the reduction in noise when cold starting was very noticeable It only sounds like a bag of wrenches in the dryer for 4 or 5 seconds then smooths right out
My cold start setup:
Napa group 31 1325CA 1060CCA batteries
24/12v resistor bypass (and new GP solenoid, old one wouldnt fully engage off of 12 volts, one thing to watch for if you do the conversion)
Manual GP switch
AC Delco 60g glowplugs with new wiring
Gear reduction starter
Power service winter additive, don't really know if it helps cold starting but i always use it and never have issues
K i'm done writing my novel, keep warm and happy cold starting!
Lighter oil also lightens the load on the batteries because everything can spin faster. A good set of glow plugs should be able to do the rest of the work(...IF...your batteries are up to snuff). A coolant or block heater will just lighten the load on the glow plugs. Battery blankets do work when its not quite as cold but it gets so cold here if your battery is crap, you'll find out and a blanket wont do you any good
I use a 1500w coolant heater and a 75w glue/stick on oil pan pad heater. It's only 75w because 0w40 doesnt need the heat to thin it out that a heavier oil would.
For you guys/girls in the states with warmer winters id suggest 5w40 and a oil pan heater. A coolant or block heater will help the oil stay warm once the engine is running and the oil is circulating.
(very) Cold starts are one of the hardest things on an engine, especially with a diesel running heavier oil! It was -20c when i switched to 0w40 this year, the reduction in noise when cold starting was very noticeable It only sounds like a bag of wrenches in the dryer for 4 or 5 seconds then smooths right out
My cold start setup:
Napa group 31 1325CA 1060CCA batteries
24/12v resistor bypass (and new GP solenoid, old one wouldnt fully engage off of 12 volts, one thing to watch for if you do the conversion)
Manual GP switch
AC Delco 60g glowplugs with new wiring
Gear reduction starter
Power service winter additive, don't really know if it helps cold starting but i always use it and never have issues
K i'm done writing my novel, keep warm and happy cold starting!
Hasdrubal
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No, the o-ring is on the back side of the filter base, you have to remove the entire assembly to see or access it. There is a fuel pressure sensor that is only used by the military with special testing equipment, its not needed. Sorry I dont know of a source off-hand. I replaced the entire filter base with a new OEM one. How are your google skills, maybe someone else will pipe up. There are threads that go into removing the pressure sensor and blocking off the port with JB weld or tapping and installing a threaded plug. Do you see any wetness on the side or bottom of the filter base?
That being said it sounds like your issue is something else entirely, as this would only cause hard start issues and not poor idle. What is the history of your issue? Did it idle properly before? If not.. have you tried adjusting the idle?
That being said it sounds like your issue is something else entirely, as this would only cause hard start issues and not poor idle. What is the history of your issue? Did it idle properly before? If not.. have you tried adjusting the idle?
scottladdy
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As far as the pressure sensor. Search the forum for Owens Export Service. I picked up several of these sensors for relatively few dollars. Steve has a boatload (I think literally). Phone is 818-772-0806.
I replaced the sensors in my trucks the first time I replaced the fuel filter. A very easy swap. The new pieces are boxed and heavily sealed. A much improved design over the original. O-rings are nice and supple. I also changed out the flexible fuel lines. My trucks start like champs.
I replaced the sensors in my trucks the first time I replaced the fuel filter. A very easy swap. The new pieces are boxed and heavily sealed. A much improved design over the original. O-rings are nice and supple. I also changed out the flexible fuel lines. My trucks start like champs.
