Cold Weather and CUCV's

[Sharecropper]

Up here the answer to fuel gelling is to use no 1 fuel oil. It's in all the outside home heating oil tanks and all the diesel trucks and heavy equipment here runs on the exact same stuff. We had 76 below official (without wind chill factor ) one year and regularly see 40 - 50 below each winter and all the houses oil stoves and diesel vehicles fuel keep flowing. I have a 55' of 3/8 copper tube running from my outside house oil tank to where it enters the house and it flows fine through all that tubing. Maybe you can't get pure #1 fuel oil but if you can it's the universal solution up here.

Post 28 - Also I have used a 1000 watt freeze plug heater on my CUCV, (Kat"s brand). They do make them and are easy to find at parts stores here and Amazon.

#1 diesel and kerosene are the same. Kerosene is lighter and has slightly less heat than pump diesel, which is #2 diesel. You can cut pump diesel with 10 - 20% kerosene and eliminate your gelling issue. If you do cut it however, you should also add a small container of 2 cycle oil to replace the lubricity that the kerosene does not have.
hope this helps.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

A couple notes.

A full synthetic will pour better at lower temps.

When I owned my CUCV, I changed my oil every 6 months, because I didn't drive it that much. I went with 15w40 in spring, then in fall changed it to 5W40.

The difference between 15w40 conventional and 15w40 synthetic was noticeable.
The difference between 15w40 synthetic and 5w40 synthetic in the winter was just as noticeable.
It cranked over considerably faster and started faster with the 5W40 synthetic, in 20* weather.
With the 5w40 @ 20*, it would crank over like 15w40 conventional would in the summer heat.. Nary a hesitation.
The faster you can get oil flowing through the engine, the better.. Conventional 15w40 @ 20* is like molasses.

If you don't drive your CUCV that much, and fill up in summer, and you still have that fuel left in your tank come winter, you're gonna need an anti-gel. There are no winter additives in diesel in summer, and will generally stay good to about 20*... Winterized diesel from the pump SHOULD theoretically be good to -20* but since I used power service anyway I just switched to the white bottle in winter, which includes an anti-gel that the grey bottle does not have.

Diesel 911 and other emergency anti-gel products to thin gelled diesel are HORRIBLE for your pump. Do not use them except in an extreme emergency, and do not use more than required. Diesel 911 (red bottle) is NOT supposed to be used as a preventative, because it can do a lot of damage using it frequently.

The stock fuel filter assembly DOES have a fuel heater built in..So it should help get fuel flowing..

 

[TechnoWeenie]

 

[TechnoWeenie]

 

[royalflush55]

A couple notes.

A full synthetic will pour better at lower temps.

When I owned my CUCV, I changed my oil every 6 months, because I didn't drive it that much. I went with 15w40 in spring, then in fall changed it to 5W40.

The difference between 15w40 conventional and 15w40 synthetic was noticeable.
The difference between 15w40 synthetic and 5w40 synthetic in the winter was just as noticeable.
It cranked over considerably faster and started faster with the 5W40 synthetic, in 20* weather.
With the 5w40 @ 20*, it would crank over like 15w40 conventional would in the summer heat.. Nary a hesitation.
The faster you can get oil flowing through the engine, the better.. Conventional 15w40 @ 20* is like molasses.

If you don't drive your CUCV that much, and fill up in summer, and you still have that fuel left in your tank come winter, you're gonna need an anti-gel. There are no winter additives in diesel in summer, and will generally stay good to about 20*... Winterized diesel from the pump SHOULD theoretically be good to -20* but since I used power service anyway I just switched to the white bottle in winter, which includes an anti-gel that the grey bottle does not have.

Diesel 911 and other emergency anti-gel products to thin gelled diesel are HORRIBLE for your pump. Do not use them except in an extreme emergency, and do not use more than required. Diesel 911 (red bottle) is NOT supposed to be used as a preventative, because it can do a lot of damage using it frequently.

The stock fuel filter assembly DOES have a fuel heater built in..So it should help get fuel flowing..

I have watched this also before and it always concerns me if proper amounts off each product are added as specified from each manufacture. I have seen these bearing test machines with grease in person and believe there is room for operator error in some of the comparisons. Remember it is one test!

I still believe the condition of the fuel has a lot to do with some of the results. If fuel has water in it it freezes or gels quicker.
Diesel engines operate better on Cetane rating above 50. The national average is about 45! This is a lot of difference from the start. This cetane number makes a big difference in starting ability all the time!

On a bottle of Stanadyne Diesel Fuel additive it says to use 8 oz. to 30 gal. with no mention to temperature protection. It also says to store above 32*!

On a bottle of Power Service Arctic formula it says to use 16oz. to 40 gal ABOVE 0*, Then 16 oz. to 20 gal. BELOW 0*! This is double rate! It also says to store above 10*!

I have never noticed storage temperatures on these products before. Can anybody explain how this might affect performance if they were stored say below 0*? Do they not mix as well or does it ruin their intended purpose all together?

 

[Keith_J]

No fuel issues at 8 °F. But the starter needed some percussive maintenance.

 

[LT67]

We've had low temps in the teens this year and both of my M1008's fire up without hesitation. They just rattle louder at first because of the colder temps.

 

[royalflush55]

That loud rattle sounds good to me on a really cold morning! Sounds a lot better than a grinding starter with no start!
Just let it warm up good before you take off! Full synthetic Rotella is what I use in winter time!

 

[stanzuray]

37 below official airport temp this morning and CUCV started right up plugged in with just a oil pan heater and 24 volt trickle charge all night. Not pretty sounding but been doing it for years now in winters.

 

[RobM36A2]

My M1028 does not like the cold. it was -12 celcius here for about a week.
The 2 830 cca batteries glowed and cranked with ease. But there was no fuel coming in.
Guess the (20% bio) diesel in the fuel lines was not up to the unexpected deep freeze..
Lesson for next time: Normal (7% bio) diesel when fall rolls in.

Here in The Netherlands we have a few different types of diesel,
as environmental stuff here regulates a minimum percentage of biodiesel mixed in the normal diesel fuel:
At the pump we have 7% (regular), 20% (HVO20), 100% (HVO100) and synthetic (GTL)

The truck runs great on the HVO20, better starting and running

 

[2INSANE]

The most effective 4 things that has helped me with cold starts from 10 degrees down to -30 degrees are...

1. 600 watt block heater. 1000 watt block heaters get too hot and eventually burn out quicker. Make sure to run the motor 5 times to get the air pockets out after you install a block heater or you will burn it the first plug in.

2. Dual battery warmer pads. They are very effective! Cold temperatures reduce your cold cranking amps down 50%! No joke!

3. Diesel #1 or Howes Anti Gel additive. Fuel will start to gel at -10 degrees and prevent motor from running.

4. 5w-40 oil helps the motor crank faster during winter and will not thicken up as much.

Other options I have tried... Not as effective as the first top 4.

Oil pan heater
Dip stick heater
Inline lower radiator hose heater
Recirculating block heater
Fuel heater
Blow dryer
Intake air heater
Cucv winter kit
50,000 btu propane heater under motor

When it is VERY cold!

Disconnecting fan
Cardboard over grill

 

[royalflush55]

The most effective 4 things that has helped me with cold starts from 10 degrees down to -30 degrees are...

1. 600 watt block heater. 1000 watt block heaters get too hot and eventually burn out quicker. Make sure to run the motor 5 times to get the air pockets out after you install a block heater or you will burn it the first plug in.

2. Dual battery warmer pads. They are very effective! Cold temperatures reduce your cold cranking amps down 50%! No joke!

3. Diesel #1 or Howes Anti Gel additive. Fuel will start to gel at -10 degrees and prevent motor from running.

4. 5w-40 oil helps the motor crank faster during winter and will not thicken up as much.

Other options I have tried... Not as effective as the first top 4.

Oil pan heater
Dip stick heater
Inline lower radiator hose heater
Recirculating block heater
Fuel heater
Blow dryer
Intake air heater
Cucv winter kit
50,000 btu propane heater under motor

When it is VERY cold!

Disconnecting fan
Cardboard over grill

Why do you prefer the Howe s Anti Gel additive?
Do you use #1 diesel 100% or blended?

 

[2INSANE]

Why do you prefer the Howe s Anti Gel additive?
Do you use #1 diesel 100% or blended?

I use 1 or the other. Either 1/2 tank blend with diesel #1 or I add Howes. Howes has always worked for me if instructions are followed.

Howes is cheaper the diesel#1 and you get more fill ups with a bottle of Howes. I use it personally and commercially.

If I was in Alaska and it was colder then -30 I would use straight diesel #1.