Communication cable or....?

[Gcelevator]

If i were to buy the cable that connect to this connector, what is this called? Radio cable? Communications cable? I have searched the TM's but i might have missed this section. My idea is to connect a couple of accessories from here instead of running new wires to the battery. If i am wrong on this, please let me know.

 

[Milcommoguy]

If i were to buy the cable that connect to this connector, what is this called? Radio cable? Communications cable? I have searched the TM's but i might have missed this section. My idea is to connect a couple of accessories from here instead of running new wires to the battery. If i am wrong on this, please let me know.

 

[Mogman]

It would be called a STE/ICE engine diagnostics kit, nobody just sells the connector that I know of and it is not designed to drive any accessories

 

[Milcommoguy]

TM 9-2320-280-20-1a. STE/ICE-R Description and Operation. The following describes the operation of the Simplified Teat Equipment/Internal Combustion Engines (STE/ICE-R) system and contains detailed operating procedures. It is used to test the serviceability of HMMWV vehicles and to perform primary fault detection and isolation.

Think of it as a simple break-out port. Not of much use, IMO.

Nothing to see here, CAMO

 

[Gcelevator]

It would be called a STE/ICE engine diagnostics kit, nobody just sells the connector that I know of and it is not designed to drive any accessories

That explains why i can't find it. Running new wires is my option. Thanks once again.

 

[Gcelevator]

TM 9-2320-280-20-1a. STE/ICE-R Description and Operation. The following describes the operation of the Simplified Teat Equipment/Internal Combustion Engines (STE/ICE-R) system and contains detailed operating procedures. It is used to test the serviceability of HMMWV vehicles and to perform primary fault detection and isolation.

Think of it as a simple break-out port. Not of much use, IMO.

Nothing to see here, CAMO

Thanks, i though i had all this sh...t figure it out that's why i couldn't find any cable for it. Going another route i guess.

 

[Bulldogger]

If I recall correctly a few people have removed that and replaced it with a different connector. It would take a while to find it but I also recall someone pointing out that this connector does have a 24V+ pin, so it can deliver a small amount of power (low wattage). Probably better to run new wires though, and blank off the old port's wires. Then you have more control/flexibility over what is used.
Bulldogger

 

[papakb]

And with a simple jumper between pins S and T you can start your truck if your control box has gone tits up.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Thanks, i though i had all this sh...t figure it out that's why i couldn't find any cable for it. Going another route i guess.

Not sure what you may be connecting? Most consumer products are likely 12 volts so that's not going to work here. More thought and research needed.

The connector being military grade likely going to cost more than its worth. Current requirements for the items in question, likely more than the individual pins in that connector. (could double up , but Y)

IMO, a good mechanic can make any test right after one pops the hood.... before GI Joe get the overpriced ICE-STE tester out and hooked up and looks up the fail code.

IMO, Best practice would follow along with the TM's in the installation of radio equipment, etc... with your own spin and no sparks.

IMO, the best thing for that connector is to punch it out and put a cup holder there. It's a better idea.

This is likely an opinion and free. Only on my second cup of JOE and watching the queen rolling down the road, lol. CAMO

 

[Gcelevator]

Not sure what you may be connecting? Most consumer products are likely 12 volts so that's not going to work here. More thought and research needed.

The connector being military grade likely going to cost more than its worth. Current requirements for the items in question, likely more than the individual pins in that connector. (could double up , but Y)

IMO, a good mechanic can make any test right after one pops the hood.... before GI Joe get the overpriced ICE-STE tester out and hooked up and looks up the fail code.

IMO, Best practice would follow along with the TM's in the installation of radio equipment, etc... with your own spin and no sparks.

IMO, the best thing for that connector is to punch it out and put a cup holder there. It's a better idea.

This is likely an opinion and free. Only on my second cup of JOE and watching the queen rolling down the road, lol. CAMO

My idea was to keep the connector original and pick and peel some wires out of the ICE harness usable for power instead of running wires all the way back to the battery box for a cleaner look. Probably i will remove the exisitng harness and run new stuff through it or leave it unmolested and run a new harness or wires as needed.
For the cup holder, i am making another piece and attaching it to the radio tray.

 

[Milcommoguy]

My idea was to keep the connector original and pick and peel some wires out of the ICE harness usable for power instead of running wires all the way back to the battery box for a cleaner look. Probably i will remove the exisitng harness and run new stuff through it or leave it unmolested and run a new harness or wires as needed.
For the cup holder, i am making another piece and attaching it to the radio tray.

I think one will find that the back side is encapsulated (a bitch to work with) If one looks to the left front of passenger seat on the tunnel...I would bet there a big hole ready to go right to the batteries. Maybe not. Anyway sound like one as it all dialed in.

Power to the HumV, CAMO