COMPLETE CTIS delete and removal on M1078 (A0)

[Littlejacy]

In regards to the "standard delete" (I'll call it), where as best as I can tell you simply remove the brain box possibly w/ harness I'd assume and then get some plugs for the wheels and...voila. However I have plans for some additional things I'd really like to use that wet tank port for where the CTIS valve currently resides.

My question thus: Any obvious reason that I cannot remove that whole valve body/block from that port and be free to utilize it for other endevours? I'm not bold enough nor do I require ALL of the lines to be pulled. But is that okay?

 

[Ronmar]

In regards to the "standard delete" (I'll call it), where as best as I can tell you simply remove the brain box possibly w/ harness I'd assume and then get some plugs for the wheels and...voila. However I have plans for some additional things I'd really like to use that wet tank port for where the CTIS valve currently resides.

My question thus: Any obvious reason that I cannot remove that whole valve body/block from that port and be free to utilize it for other endevours? I'm not bold enough nor do I require ALL of the lines to be pulled. But is that okay?

No, there is no reason you cannot pull the PCU valve and the lines. CTIS does nothing until the PCU is sealed AND pressurized, so without a controller it is not an issue. The air supply line to the PCU is Td to the fan control air valve right where it comes thru the floor, so the port on the T to the PCU will have to be plugged to remove the valve.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

You can also just T off the port and leave the CTIS intact.

Any reason you don't want to have it operational? You already have it and it's a really simple system that works well if you reasonably maintain it.

 

[Ronmar]

Yea its kinda nice to check the tire pressure from the drivers seat

 

[hike]

However I have plans for some additional things I'd really like to use that wet tank port for where the CTIS valve currently resides.

My question thus: Any obvious reason that I cannot remove that whole valve body/block from that port and be free to utilize it for other endevours?

Is he asking to remove the pressure valve off the wet tank's side?


Or the PCU solenoid valves behind the passenger side foot kick?

 

[Ronmar]

Is he asking to remove the pressure valve off the wet tank's side?
View attachment 912341

Or the PCU solenoid valves behind the passenger side foot kick?

You know thats a good question, re-reading the original post.

The valve in this last pic on the side of the wet tank is a pressure protection valve(only lets air exit tank when tank is above 85 PSI). It cannot be removed. It feeds CTIS, fan air, and cab suspension.

So @Littlejacy what exactly are you wanting to do?

 

[Littlejacy]

You know thats a good question, re-reading the original post.

The valve in this last pic on the side of the wet tank is a pressure protection valve(only lets air exit tank when tank is above 85 PSI). It cannot be removed. It feeds CTIS, fan air, and cab suspension.

So @Littlejacy what exactly are you wanting to do?

Ah...I should truly have been more clear in my motives. I having not looked at my TM's yet regarding this, but I simply thought getting rid of the CTIS(which is not functioning for me at any rate) would allow me to "free up" that tap on the wet tank. Having not yet read my TM's, I would have found out that you CANNOT yank out a pressure relief valve *yikes!*.
Can I tap into one of those blocks somehow and create a dedicated feed for my air horn and then quite possibly a dedicated air line to quick-connect?

 

[Littlejacy]

You can also just T off the port and leave the CTIS intact.

Any reason you don't want to have it operational? You already have it and it's a really simple system that works well if you reasonably maintain it.

Actually, would NOT mind having it. My box is fried and as of late I'm busy getting tires on this baby (not for the faint of heart), just did a really nice battery box transformation to 2 Gp31's, and then doing all filters, zerks, fluids, etc.. The fact that I haven't been able to focus attention to the CTIS, I simply thought never had it, wont miss it .

 

[ckouba]

A fried box is nothing to worry about. 3 switches and some wiring and you can have manual, discrete pressure control:

Manual CTIS, electric over pneumatic.

Ok, so my CTIS ECU is a brick with 5 solid lights and if I spend too much more on this project my wife will probably bury me in it:) That being said, I am also a bit of a control freak so I am converting to manual CTIS. I have looked at the valve and regulator method but decided to go about it...

www.steelsoldiers.com

I did mine like Ron shows and haven't thought twice about another box bricking on me. It's a super simple system once you have an idea of what's going on:

M1088 camper conversion

It's buttoned back up now but I can next time I have the cab up (passthrough is bolted back together and the grille is back on). It's easy enough to explain though... If you look behind the grille, you'll find the lines up to the heater core in the dash. One of them already had a splice in it...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[Ronmar]

Ah...I should truly have been more clear in my motives. I having not looked at my TM's yet regarding this, but I simply thought getting rid of the CTIS(which is not functioning for me at any rate) would allow me to "free up" that tap on the wet tank. Having not yet read my TM's, I would have found out that you CANNOT yank out a pressure relief valve *yikes!*.
Can I tap into one of those blocks somehow and create a dedicated feed for my air horn and then quite possibly a dedicated air line to quick-connect?

Yes. It is relatively easy to replace one of the elbows out of the wet tank with a T and add a pressure tap. Right above the protection valve is the CTIS pressure switch on an elbow. I replaced that street elbow with a street T and re-attached the CTIS switch. I put the original street elbow on the remaining port on the T and installed a quick connect fitting. I can chrge or draw air from the tank thru that fitting.

the output of the protection valve runs up to the passenger dash area in the cab already, to feed CTIS and the air for the radiator fan clutch. That is probably a better place IMO to add another T to feed an air horn, as you can put the valve for the horn there and the existing horn wiring is already there connecting to the squeeker behind the passenger side of the grill…

 

[hike]

Actually, would NOT mind having it. My box is fried and as of late I'm busy getting tires on this baby (not for the faint of heart), just did a really nice battery box transformation to 2 Gp31's, and then doing all filters, zerks, fluids, etc.. The fact that I haven't been able to focus attention to the CTIS, I simply thought never had it, wont miss it .

The Arduino controllers are very simple to program without diagnostic gear; the Dana Spicer units are more robust and easy to program with diagnostic gear. Both use the original wiring and air connections. We have both boxes and so far prefer the Dana Spicer units simplicity while driving: pick a button even by feel. Reading the Arduino screen is difficult on the fly and its cycle is shorter in duration, longer between cycles; so airing up and down takes longer. Both work great and I do like having a spare with me. Currently, @Plasa unit is in our M1078A1—

 

[DeMilitarized]

Actually, would NOT mind having it. My box is fried and as of late I'm busy getting tires on this baby (not for the faint of heart), just did a really nice battery box transformation to 2 Gp31's, and then doing all filters, zerks, fluids, etc.. The fact that I haven't been able to focus attention to the CTIS, I simply thought never had it, wont miss it .

It is actually super nice to let you know if you have a tire leaking that you would otherwise not see or know. If you have 5 solid lights the controller is fried. Anything else the controller is salvageable and probably just a bad signal from the pressure transducer.

 

[Ronmar]

It is actually super nice to let you know if you have a tire leaking that you would otherwise not see or know. If you have 5 solid lights the controller is fried. Anything else the controller is salvageable and probably just a bad signal from the pressure transducer.

Or a leak somewhere not allowing it to stabilize in the prescribed amount of time…