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complete engine overhaul including head gaskets

Diecorpse

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Location
Grand Island, Nebraska
I have seen lots of threads about engine repair and what to do. I hope the info I provide will help anyone who may be doing the same.
I have a M35A2 with the hercules multifuel. It has 59,000 miles and 2200 hours. After I made my 1100 mile trip from Michigan to Nebraska, she ran fine. The first week in Nebraska, the bolt broke on the tension bar for the alt and the belts. My truck overheated because the water pump was not turning fast enough due to loose belts. This caused my head gaskets to fail. She got so hot that it bent a push rod and melted a piston which ended up breaking apart. So over the past few weeks I have torn the motor apart and removed the heads. It was fairly easy however alot of improvising was needed with tools and leverage. When I removed the bad piston and sleeve, I went from underneath. I removed the oil pan, disconnected the rod from the crank, removed grill guard and pulled out the radiator, removed fan blade, used a 3/4 drive breaker bar and socket to turn the crank pulley. This allowed me to more easil remove the piston. I dont recommend pounding it out, I used a long bar with a clean rag on the end of it and my floor jack with concrete block under it and pressed it out. I did get lucky because the sleeve came out with it due to all the melted metal in it, it would not allow the piston to come out. So far I have spent about nine hours do get this far. No air or power tools just the manual stuff. I took at least sixty pictures as I went. All I have to do is get replacement parts which the cheapest I have found was Tnj Murray's. I will take more pics as I go. If anyone has any questions about this topic, just reply or send pm and I will do my best to help.
 

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Diecorpse

New member
193
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Location
Grand Island, Nebraska
As a side note:
This was the first vehicle I have ever done with this much work involed so I am learning as I go. I have always done most of the work on my own vehicles except this kind. Car and truck motors seem to be more complicated and all that extra crap in the way and little room. I suggest you have quality tools and be able to buy ones you need. I have broke one socket and two wrenches so far, but I just had them replaced at sears because they were craftsman tools.
 

Diecorpse

New member
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Grand Island, Nebraska
Sorry that was my bad, I use my phone and for some reason it posted twice. Im still learning this thing. I tried to see if I can delete the other post since there arent any pics on that one but I could not find that option.
 

eagle4g63

Well-known member
1,544
34
48
Location
North/west Indiana
As I just finished a total rebuild on my motor......fired it up today:jumpin: I can tell you that it will be a bit of time. Anyway, one thing you want to do is see if your block is marked "TD" on the passenger side just a little forward of the data tag....it will be raised letters that are cast into the block. This will come in handy latter (for which torque specs to use) also on here is a member (m-35tom) to get the NEW style head gaskets......also a very great guy to deal with and very reasonable..........anyway, if you have any questions just give me a shout, more than happy to help with your build.
 

59apache

Chipmaker
1,299
29
48
Location
Bavaria / Germany
in the past, i found it was was so much easier to work on a removed engine..especially when it comes to cleaning surfaces and istalling new gaskets.
 

poppop

Well-known member
2,316
39
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Location
Brooklet, Ga
I like to build my own. Buy a takeout and its a crap shoot. Sure you can get a good one, but then maybe you won't. When I hold each piece in my hand and re-implant it I know whats in there. In frame is harder to get to but nothing wrong when its done right. The only time I pull an engine on my farm tractors is when they have to be line bored. We just did the bottom end on my Mack truck three months ago and did it in frame.
 

eagle4g63

Well-known member
1,544
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Location
North/west Indiana
I did mine "in frame":whistle: my homemade engine stand "frame":mrgreen:

This is a before picture.......too dang busy to get a done pictureaua and now it is in the truck, so I'll just have to get a pic of that.........it's SOOOO PURTY!!
 

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eagle4g63

Well-known member
1,544
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Location
North/west Indiana
Wait till I get it done.......gonna have a battery box, jerry can holder with pump and filter housing....and work spot for putting your tools and loose hardware......I have it set up so you can still mount the radiator and test fire the motor on the stand........very easy to pick up/deliver a motor with it also......4 bolts and it is in just like the truck so no worries.

Oh also going to make a set of fold up steps for the side......just a tad high to torque the heads down, had to stand on the frame rails.
 

welldigger

Active member
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Location
Benton LA
I did mine "in frame":whistle: my homemade engine stand "frame":mrgreen:

This is a before picture.......too dang busy to get a done pictureaua and now it is in the truck, so I'll just have to get a pic of that.........it's SOOOO PURTY!!
That is an awesome engine stand. Mind if I "borrow" the idea?
 

eagle4g63

Well-known member
1,544
34
48
Location
North/west Indiana
That is an awesome engine stand. Mind if I "borrow" the idea?
I'll even give you better pics of the motor mounts.......and the measurements if you need them. I do have to get off my butt and post a thread about it......been meaning to just been so dang busy with getting the motor done.....driving it home tomorrow, so maybe should start the tread about the stand this weekend........calling it my MES-105......Mobile Engine Stand-105
 

welldigger

Active member
2,602
15
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Location
Benton LA
It just so happens that a buddy of mine has a complete 105 frame left over from the bobber we have been building. We have been trying to figure out what to do with it. We hate the idea of scrapping it since its complete minus the bed. Your idea is a perfect use for it.
 

Diecorpse

New member
193
1
0
Location
Grand Island, Nebraska
You will probably laugh but. . . . I have to leave the motor in the truck because I dont have the equipment to pull it, and technically Im not suppose to work on vehicle at my rental home. So I got permission from the tow owner who towed my truck to his business yard, to work on it there. Plus I didnt have the money to pay the tow. Which is fine sin e he was cool about it and let me do payments. Funny thing is he used his military wrecker to tow my duece. He wanted my truck for parts and offered me scrap price but . . . I like my truck and I believe I can fix it. The motor does have TD on the side. I do appreciate everybody's help. I hope I will have her running again by next month so I can enjoy my ride and my woman will leave me alone!! Lol.
 

gungearz

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northwestern indiana
Actually, your doing it right by keeping the block in the chassis... He only hadthe block out because he switched from the LDT to the LDS 5 ton motor... Basically the same motor but a lot more pep... TD on the block means you have thick deck heads which is a good thing...
 

Diecorpse

New member
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Location
Grand Island, Nebraska
I feel good about what I've got done so far. I remember reading a thread where someone mentioned about TD on the block that it's worth fixing. I guess I didn't realize thats what it meant. Thanks, thats good to know.
 

eagle4g63

Well-known member
1,544
34
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Location
North/west Indiana
Yes the TD is for thick deck........however it is the block that is thick, not the heads........the block is thicker around the top where you have all the head bolts......that will allow the higher torque spec, so you can use the new style head gaskets and torque them to the high torque spec(you can still use the new head gaskets with the other blocks just have to use the lighter torque specs) this will help hold the head gasket from blowing as easy. Plus with the new style head gaskets you don't have to go back and re torque the heads again.

Just be meticulous and methodical about everything and you will be just fine.....not a very hard motor to rebuild, just heavy. The new liners should push in pretty easy, not beat them in and you have to watch cause just the turn of the crank will let the pistons push them back up.....pretty funny to see just use a soft rubber mallet and lightly tap them back down or use a wrench across the pistol from one stud, it will hold them down.
 
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