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Continuing brake issues.

icecreamman

New member
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Location
Huntsville,al.
I'm going back a while to try to create the whole picture.

When I recovered my non-running for 6yrs deuce last year, the MC was full and the pedal would go to the floor, reservoir was full and the air-pack would hiss when the pedal was released. I had proper air pressure built up due to extended cranking. I thought "no biggie, Master Cylinder replacement and drive on".

Fast forward a year. I finally "by the help of some good folks here" I got my truck running and mobile. I purchased a new MC from Clintogf and got prepared to change it. I pulled the cap, no brake fluid. I built a "power bleeder" and properly bled the entire system per TO's.

I now have rock solid pedal, zero leakdown after two weeks and definitely manual brakes. I think my air pack is the short type and appears new, granted at least six yrs old. The MC looks as new as my new one, The air pack is almost John Deere green with a sticker that says " manufactured for White Truck Co.
 

Jeepsinker

Well-known member
5,341
329
83
Location
Dry Creek, Louisiana
If you still have the skid plate under the air pack, get a big wrench and hit the bottom of the plate good and hard a few times. Sometimes that will free a stuck pack.
 

dmetalmiki

Well-known member
5,523
2,026
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Location
London England
When you say "rock solid pedal" do you mean the pedal is at the top of it's travel with no free play?. If so, some adjustment to the travel would allow the master cylinder to relieve pressure build up by (letting) the release flow port to uncover. Just a thought, as all else seems good?.
 

icecreamman

New member
158
1
0
Location
Huntsville,al.
Whenever the brake is applied, good solid pedal about 1/3 from the top and the pedal returns as it should. Everything looks and feels right but there is no power brakes. Feels like I have an air pack problem.

Jeepsinker, I just did that and I do feel better. Did no change to the problem though.
 

icecreamman

New member
158
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Location
Huntsville,al.
Just for clarification, what's the length of the piston housing on the short vs long air pack? Ive seen long vs short pics but unless one has both on a bench, it's not a really good reference point IMO.
 

icecreamman

New member
158
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Location
Huntsville,al.
Thanks to Gimpyrobb's help, I have confirmed that I have the long air pack. I have read in various threads to pull the small plug from the diaphragm end and see whats in there. If its full of brake fluid, rebuild needed. If its dry, squirt some compressor oil in it and see if it frees itself up?
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,785
748
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
I have found that even if the oil frees up the air pack, it will still have issuses or go all the way bad in a short amount of time.

There is about half as many parts in the short pack as the long one. If you can find one you can afford, I recommend swapping to the new style. Also, you should pull the old one out to see if rebuilding is even an option. Some are too rusted.
 

icecreamman

New member
158
1
0
Location
Huntsville,al.
Thanks for the direction guys. I'm afraid it's gonna be a little while before I'm under the truck again. I've been battling pneumonia (for the first time in my fifty years) and we here are having flooding like I haven't seen in over thirty-five years.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
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