DaveP
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can someone explain what the control box on my 800 series actually does ? this is the one on left side of firewall in engine compartment. having an intermittant short and i am trying to isolate the problem.
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control box
- Thread starter DaveP
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Are you talking about the large box with two connections comming out of the bottom of the box?. Do you have the 25 amp generator?
DaveP
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i have an updated alternator. i think it's 80 amp. the box i am refferring to has CONTROL BOX right on the tag. prob 4 in. wide 8 in. tall and 3-4 in. deep. has about a dozen wires out the bottom.
DaveP
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still having electrical issues with the XM818w/w . can anyone shed more light on this control box operation or purpose ?
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There was an article on the box in MV Mag several years ago. Told how to go through it. I have no knowledge of its function other than that.
DaveP
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thanks Kenny. having very strange occurances going on and i think the trouble is in that black box. it's a intermittant low voltage issue that corrects itself when the throttle position is varied ever so slightly. ODD ! VERY ODD. cant find that issue of MV mag.
Tom @ Snake River
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Control boxes
I have replaced both control boxes on my the 2 of my M-812 trucks. Memphis Equipment has them from Southern Electrical for $320.00 each. Main condition was that the internal sylimolds were not hitting in and staying very well. Resulting in you continuely flipping the switch to engage the sylinoids and then when you hit the starter, they would kick out or resulting in lower voltage to the starter.
I am experienceing lighting problems on one truck. I was hopeing that replaceing the control would solve the problem, but no such luck. Starter engagement and a stronger voltage are a lot better with a new box.
As stated, you can break into them and rebuilt the box, but it looks like a lot of work. BOYCE Equipment says they know how to wire around the box. Tom @ Snake River
I have replaced both control boxes on my the 2 of my M-812 trucks. Memphis Equipment has them from Southern Electrical for $320.00 each. Main condition was that the internal sylimolds were not hitting in and staying very well. Resulting in you continuely flipping the switch to engage the sylinoids and then when you hit the starter, they would kick out or resulting in lower voltage to the starter.
I am experienceing lighting problems on one truck. I was hopeing that replaceing the control would solve the problem, but no such luck. Starter engagement and a stronger voltage are a lot better with a new box.
As stated, you can break into them and rebuilt the box, but it looks like a lot of work. BOYCE Equipment says they know how to wire around the box. Tom @ Snake River