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Control, we are detecting a shimmy.

Shiflett

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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28
18
Location
32789, Florida
Seeking advise on where to look for an issue. I drove and parked my truck, stock M1083, on a Saturday without issue, the following day the truck had a shimmy/vibration at 25mph which goes away, and then again at 35mph which also goes away the closer you get to 40mph.

1. engine rev's in neutral VERY smooth
2. rear drive shafts are tight.
3. front drive shaft has the slightest of play
4. transmission shifts normal
5. tires are evenly inflated and don't appear to have any damage
6. rear lower control arms are solid
7. I don't feel the shimmy through the steering wheel, leads me to think its in the rear


Any thoughts?
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
3,881
7,549
113
Location
Port angeles wa
What is the frequency of the shimmy?

Big tires turn relatively slowly, about 6 revolutions per second(HZ) at highway speed. I would expect a tire to oscillate about 3HZ at 30MPH... A DS would be 7.8X that... My limit for counting reliably is about 12HZ, so even at 30MPH a DS would be too fast for me to count.

On level ground, Jack up one wheel at a time, chock the other wheels. While it is in the air check for side to side play, top to bottom and front to rear(bearings and steering). Then put someone in the cab, start and engage a gear to spin that one wheel(and guard the brakes). look for out of round at the tread and out of true at the edge of the tread, sidewall and rim. Repeat for all wheels...

Where is the play on the front DS? yoke, u-joint or slip-joint? If you can feel play, it is too much... A DS would produce a very high frequency vibration, and not likely a shimmy. But at our steep DS angles and the fact we spin them way into the red zone for their angle, THEY MUST BE PERFECT otherwise bad things ensue...

Probably the biggest benefit of eco hubs, they bring our DS RPM back onto the acceptable range on the angle vs RPM chart...

If you steering is tight, its probably a tire, but could be a rim, or even a bearing...

Good luck
 

Shiflett

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
28
28
18
Location
32789, Florida
What is the frequency of the shimmy?

Big tires turn relatively slowly, about 6 revolutions per second(HZ) at highway speed. I would expect a tire to oscillate about 3HZ at 30MPH... A DS would be 7.8X that... My limit for counting reliably is about 12HZ, so even at 30MPH a DS would be too fast for me to count.

On level ground, Jack up one wheel at a time, chock the other wheels. While it is in the air check for side to side play, top to bottom and front to rear(bearings and steering). Then put someone in the cab, start and engage a gear to spin that one wheel(and guard the brakes). look for out of round at the tread and out of true at the edge of the tread, sidewall and rim. Repeat for all wheels...

Where is the play on the front DS? yoke, u-joint or slip-joint? If you can feel play, it is too much... A DS would produce a very high frequency vibration, and not likely a shimmy. But at our steep DS angles and the fact we spin them way into the red zone for their angle, THEY MUST BE PERFECT otherwise bad things ensue...

Probably the biggest benefit of eco hubs, they bring our DS RPM back onto the acceptable range on the angle vs RPM chart...

If you steering is tight, its probably a tire, but could be a rim, or even a bearing...

Good luck
Thank you, it’s definitely in the drive hrz range. The flex is in the slip joint. I’m going to pull it and have it professionally refurbished.
 

Keith Knight

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,006
1,905
113
Location
Wauchula, FL
After balancing my drive shafts and new unjoints. I still had vibrations changed tires and up the psi it went away. When mine was still an M1078 I ran 85 psi up front which stopped the heavy wearing of the tires. 65 psi in the back yes I had to disconnect the CTIS and do it manually. I feel 60-65 is way to low for on road.
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
3,881
7,549
113
Location
Port angeles wa
After balancing my drive shafts and new unjoints. I still had vibrations changed tires and up the psi it went away. When mine was still an M1078 I ran 85 psi up front which stopped the heavy wearing of the tires. 65 psi in the back yes I had to disconnect the CTIS and do it manually. I feel 60-65 is way to low for on road.
Yep, these things are pretty nose heavy when empty. you need to run different tire pressures with different axle weights to balance out the tire wear.

55PSI is considered an Offroad/Cross-country tire pressure in the Goodyear MVT documentation…
 

GeneralDisorder

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,076
5,308
113
Location
Portland, OR
The tire's load rating is at 100 psi according to the sidewalls on my 2022 MV/T's

But I prefer not to subsidize my dentist's kid's college fund. I find that I tend to run the 55 psi spec daily around town and switch to the 81 psi spec for high speed, longer distance travel.

CTIS is great. Push button, walk away.
 

MatthewWBailey

Thanks for this site. My truck runs great now!
Steel Soldiers Supporter
863
1,567
93
Location
Mesa Colorado
Even better, they installed AC and wired the fan in backwards so the system overheated. Now it won't hold a charge and they don't even warranty their own work. Tip of the iceberg of fun things I've found.
Ugh. That sucks. Mine is missing CTIS hub seals so the gear oil flows into the CTIS. Luckily lol they never replaced the frayed CTIS lines so I saw the oil flowing out onto the ground. "Gone through by our shop" means they changed the oil and put tire shine on the sidewalls.
 

GeneralDisorder

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,076
5,308
113
Location
Portland, OR
Yeah I've heard that line before. Pretty sure everyone knows which shop it is too.
Not just those guys either. Acela has done that to a bunch of trucks because the owner didn't want to source the bead-locks. Friend of mine with an Acela built A1R had one of his tires go flat from a leak and it popped the bead off the rim. He was not aware till that moment that his truck didn't have any bead-locks in the rims.

IMHO you are always better off getting a surplus truck and taking no one's word for anything having been done to it. The evil you don't know about vs. the evil masquerading as a warranty.
 
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