conversion of 4 batteries to 2?

TwistedOaks

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TwistedOaks,
THAT is a thing of beauty! I would go so far as to say elegant.
Very nice work. Great minds (you and Ford) think alike. A spare 24 volt vehicle? I don't even have the jumper cable.
Gary
Thanks man! It's a labor of love. I spent a ridiculous amount of money just figuring out the best 2/0 wire, lugs, and heat shrink. Had I simply searched and read here first, I could've saved some time and money.

EDIT: for future searchers... 500V Ultra-flex welding wire available on amazon. Solder bullets and lugs and method from this post.
 
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kc5mzd

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The slave plug is for jump starting. It works well if it is wired properly and you have a military jumper cable. There are many different ways to wire it but here is the quickest, easiest and best way I have found...
 

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Voyeurger

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The slave plug is for jump starting. It works well if it is wired properly and you have a military jumper cable. There are many different ways to wire it but here is the quickest, easiest and best way I have found...
Thanks KC!
That's (almost) exactly how I did it and it fired right up. I omitted the slave cable hookups for now. Don't have the jump cable or another M939 to plug into. She runs like a Swiss watch ; 0)
 

kc5mzd

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Will expect to see some pics, lots of places to off road in Phoenix AZ. You should have fun with your new toy.
 

tobyS

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Post 62 has the basic electrical layout and there are others in the thread.

Here is one of mine.
 

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Choppers

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Did mine using diagram found on here Somewhere.

O'Reillys had what I wanted (950 cca).

Look for and find the diagram here on SS.

Its super easy, cheaper that OEM, and has worked great for me.
 

Larry Weibert

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I have used many of the cheaper trickle chargers which will over charge if you leave them on. I found using a cheap 110 timer from home depot works to eliminate that in the off season. Ill set it for like 1 hr a day and it keeps them up. I need a lot of them so its a way to not buy so many expensive ones. Just my 2 cents of whats worked for me.
 

Brutacus

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Here is picture from an M809 series with 2 batteries. I have the positive slave cable connected to the positive battery post (black cable under red cap) and negative slave cable connected to the frame, I don't have my 12v glow pug hooked up right now, you can see wire hanging up in the righthand corner on the splash shield. Other than the glow plug wire, my setup is the same as the diagram in post #62


battery install 5.JPG
 

m715mike

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I had four dead Hawkers on my M936 and swapped in two Auto Craft Gold batteries (Part # 34FT-2). They are a good fit with plenty of clearance.

The wiring is still a bit sloppy and I need to add some wood blocks to secure the smaller batteries. But the good news is that it worked and the truck fired right up!

8A35C277-0C21-4858-90A7-8AC53E14C43D.jpeg
 
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M936 Dave

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My solution to the clearance issues. Relocation! Easier to replace also.


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That's what I'm planning on doing this week. Ill be using 2 4d batteries for the extra cranking amps and get the batteries out from under the seat. All it takes is for a alternator regulator to peter out and here comes a battery explosion.
 

simp5782

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That's what I'm planning on doing this week. Ill be using 2 4d batteries for the extra cranking amps and get the batteries out from under the seat. All it takes is for a alternator regulator to peter out and here comes a battery explosion.
There are hole knockouts already in the box for cables.

If you have an NHC250 truck the cables aren't quite long enough.

You may look at running your existing ground to a frame hole behind the box with a bolt then add the ground from there into the box. The positive I generally bolt an eyelet to eyelet. Solder it. Then rubber coat spray it. Then use an asphalt wrap to insulate it more

If the regulator blows it takes out the control box as that is the protection for the system. It has diodes in it to protect the wiring and the batteries. Hint it's name "protection control box" LMTVs use a "polarity protection box"
 

M936 Dave

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There are hole knockouts already in the box for cables.

If you have an NHC250 truck the cables aren't quite long enough.

You may look at running your existing ground to a frame hole behind the box with a bolt then add the ground from there into the box. The positive I generally bolt an eyelet to eyelet. Solder it. Then rubber coat spray it. Then use an asphalt wrap to insulate it more

If the regulator blows it takes out the control box as that is the protection for the system. It has diodes in it to protect the wiring and the batteries. Hint it's name "protection control box" LMTVs use a "polarity protection box"
Looks like 0 wire from what I can tell. I have 2 m936 and m931? Whatever the semi is lol.
 

simp5782

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Looks like 0 wire from what I can tell. I have 2 m936 and m931? Whatever the semi is lol.
It should be 1/0 or 2/0.

The wreckers and tractors are broken down in 3 sub categories. Basic, what we call an A0 has dual tires on the rear, A1 which is an upgrade of the A0 but with super single tires, both A0 and A1 have a non turbo NHC250 engine, an A2 has super single tires, CTIS, different 8.3L turbo 6CTA and a few other changes.
 
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