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Conversion to Electric Lift Pump on HMMWV?

tjonesdfw

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I know many may claim hogwash, but I've legitimately been through two factory correct mechanical lift pumps from a reputable HMMWV parts supplier in 2 years. An acquaintance who owns ALOT of heavy diesel equipment says he suspects the ultra low sulfur diesel is degrading the diaphragm in the mechanical pumps, causing them to weep. I know a lot of diesel would have to weep into the crankcase to cause an issue, and I check every fluid and system before we drive our truck once a week, BUT it made me wonder about using a block off plate and electric lift pump instead. Facet makes 12v and 24v pumps for other military equipment, wiring is easy, and a switch could serve as an additional theft deterrent. I know the mechanical pump is inexpensive and replacement isn't a huge chore, but having a spare electric pump in the toolbox would be an even quicker swap if and when it ever went out on the side of the road. I know many will argue about the mechanical nature of the factory lift pump being better for such a mechanical truck, running without power, etc.... but if I lose my 200amp generator and or batteries, then I lose my transmission controller, lights, and other accessories anyway, and will just park it until its fixed as its a third vehicle and toy. Curious if anyone here has made the swap and has any input. Thanks
 

tjonesdfw

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Coppell, Texas
I see you ave seen my post on my pump, just a heads up it will run with or without the electric pump running, not well but certainly not a theft deterrent.
Yes, I guess that makes sense if its a flow through electric pump. I have other theft deterrents in places, so that isn't the primary goal by any means though. Thank you
 

royg

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slc, ut
I replaced a mechanical pump in a CJ7 with electric and in hindsight it was a mistake I would never repeat. It's just trading one failure point(pump) with several(pump, power path, ground path, switch)

have you inspected your tank/pickup for debris that could be killing your pump diaphragms? Could be something going on that would kill electric pumps also...
 

Coug

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probably no consensus for any of them, but I like Optilube XL. I buy gallon jugs then use some HDPE measuring bottles. Was cheaper to buy a dozen pack of the bottles than buy 3 or 4 so I did the dozen pack and use them for other additives as well such as biocide, antigel, and others.

Optilube also makes some other additives for lubricity and other things such as antigel, but the XL version is the most cost effective.


There was a test done I think in the mid 2000's where the optilube XPD came out on top for lubricity. (okay, found the test and linked it at the bottom)

Optilube XPD

I don't need the storage stability, cold weather performance, or other stuff, and according to Optilube's chart, the XL is better for lubricity than the XPD and the same size jug treats twice as much fuel.
Optilube XL

The dispensing bottles I use:

the test from 2007
 

nikojo

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Location
Wisconsin and Illinois
Great information. Thank you.

probably no consensus for any of them, but I like Optilube XL. I buy gallon jugs then use some HDPE measuring bottles. Was cheaper to buy a dozen pack of the bottles than buy 3 or 4 so I did the dozen pack and use them for other additives as well such as biocide, antigel, and others.

Optilube also makes some other additives for lubricity and other things such as antigel, but the XL version is the most cost effective.


There was a test done I think in the mid 2000's where the optilube XPD came out on top for lubricity. (okay, found the test and linked it at the bottom)

Optilube XPD

I don't need the storage stability, cold weather performance, or other stuff, and according to Optilube's chart, the XL is better for lubricity than the XPD and the same size jug treats twice as much fuel.
Optilube XL

The dispensing bottles I use:

the test from 2007
 

Coug

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Olympia/WA
So everyone runs an additive? That’s recommended then? Lol
When these engines were designed, diesel fuel had a lot of sulfur in it, which acted as a lubricant.
With the change to ULSD in the early 2000's, that lubrication went away. The fuel seller does blend in lubricants to bring it back within the federal standard, but it's still not the best.
It's not required, but it's relatively cheap insurance to add some extra lubricity compared to replacing fuel pumps, injection pumps, and injectors.
 

Mogman

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Staff member
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Papalote, TX
I run an AirDog on my Duramax, it is way overkill for the Detroit as the Detroit does not have problems with aerated fuel like the high pressure common fuel rail engines.
A low pressure Raptor and a good filter is more than enough for the Detroit.
I ended up settling on 10-12 PSI, any higher it affects timing, 10-12PSI allows for as much bypass through the IP as possible to cool the IP.
The Raptor is the same pump used in the AirDog.
 

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