• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Convert to 12 volt or use a power inverter?

Irv

New member
138
0
0
Location
Noxon, MT
A potential problem with changing the deuce to 12v is the wiring. The wires are sized to conduct the current that you expect running 24v lights. If you operate 12 volt lights at the same power level (brightness equivalent), you will need twice the current. Therein lies the rub. The wires will not be big enough. The 3 lever switch will not be stout enough, either. They tend to melt when they get dirty a bit, and this doubling of current will exacerbate that. The breakers are sized for the current in a 24v system. You will have to change the breakers to ones rated at twice the current.

I recommend leaving the 24v system as it is, and add a 24 to 12 converter box. A good alternative would be to tap off of the top of the lower battery for small loads, but in that case, put two voltmeters in the cab, one reading each battery. If the voltages become imbalanced by more than a volt or so, I'd quit using that setup and get the converter. I've seen them for as low as $3 at fleamarkets and they work. New, is less than $100 by a bunch. Irv
 

zout

In Memorial
In Memorial
7,744
154
63
Location
Columbus Georgia
Lone - look back iny my thread of the 100 amp equalizer we use in the 109's. We give the Manufacturer and model # of the unit - they also make several models and different sizes and are made for the long haul.

There are numerous detailed sites that explain why not to use a tap off the 24v system to run 12v - rv'ers have tried it many a time and killed the batteries - may last a little while but the end will be in sight.

We also installed 3000 watt inverter chargers into the system as well - Magnum units. We run 440 total amp hour systems.

If that wiring starts to "fuse" you will not want to be in the cab smelling the insulation melting and you will have to find a great deal of speed to to get the HOT wires and disconnected from the source if there were to be a short.

We have seperate 110 v breaker panel - a sub panel - inverter chargers - equalizer - transfer siwtch's - automatic breakers all checked and rechecked before we put the hot to them.
The CB we run in the units is wired back into the deep cycle circuit - and not even stealing this off the 24v side.

Youi may not need all of this - but it will give you some idea's if you never want to have a problem with the electrical system you install.
 

Lonesome715

Well-known member
2,664
25
48
Location
Columbus, GA
Wow. That is a lot of information. I think I am more comfused than I was before I started this thread. I do see that there are multible pros and cons to each option. I guess the best thing to do is to start narrowing the options down by figuring out which ones have the most cons.

I do plan to run a lot of stuff on the 12V system. Along with AC extra lighting, and 12V trailers I also plan to severl other tools and accessories much like I have on my F350. I plan to make this Deuce fit all of our needs whether we are on the road or out in the woods.
 

area52

Active member
1,950
5
38
Location
San Bernardino CA
My .02 cents - use another alternator - cheaper, won't run out of "room" for the load, easy to install and can be replaced by going to the junkyard and getting another one.

If you go to the 12V system instead of the 24V - rewire, different lights, more current flowing = not good

Power converter - expensive and limited on how much current you can run through them.
 

steelandcanvas

Well-known member
6,187
85
48
Location
Southwestern Idaho
My .02 cents - use another alternator - cheaper, won't run out of "room" for the load, easy to install and can be replaced by going to the junkyard and getting another one.
I don't think it's that much cheaper. The alternator isn't the only item required to create the auxiliary 12 VDC system. You'll still need some cableing, battery, belt, mount for alternator, mount for battery. If anything, I think this route is a little more expensive. Looks cool though. I think the converter can be had for $168 + shipping, and will produce 30 Amps. No moving parts, no maintenance, etc.
 

JasonS

Well-known member
1,657
167
63
Location
Eastern SD
Why do you guys think that a third battery is necessary? The output of your 12V alternator will be at the same voltage as the midpoint between the two 12V batteries in your 24V system.

It is understood that, for the same wattage, a 12V system requires double the amperage, but you are jumping to conclusions thinking that the 14 gauge wiring is instantly insufficient. The duece wiring (and probably switches) is substantially more robust than my dodge pickup.
 

steelandcanvas

Well-known member
6,187
85
48
Location
Southwestern Idaho
Why do you guys think that a third battery is necessary? The output of your 12V alternator will be at the same voltage as the midpoint between the two 12V batteries in your 24V system.
So, let me get this straight, we have a 28 VDC alternator charging 2 batteries, then we have a 12 VDC alternator charging just one of the batteries?:confused::confused:
 

Lonesome715

Well-known member
2,664
25
48
Location
Columbus, GA
I have no idea where to begin with that. I do not know which AC system I am going to run nor do I know which lights I will select. Not to mention the other stuf I have to figure out.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks