As far as the electrical hook-up goes, a relay is the only way to go if you want to maintain the black out light feature (running the convoy lights only when the head lights are on).
Cabell hinted at this in a previous post.
Below is a diagram that shows how to to it. A 25 amp mil spec relay can handle a 10-amp lamp load. Don't forget the inrush current.
The 3-lever lamp switch has a built-in 20 amp circuit breaker and adding lights, such as the convoy and marker lights will increase the possibility of suddenly losing all your lights. Another reason for using a relay.
At one time yours truly did experience the sudden loss of all lights when the turn signals and brake lights were appplied at the same time before making a turn. It took close to a minute before the circuit breaker came back on again. The road was deserted and no traffic was encountered, but it was not a fun experience.
Here is the perfect relay for this application:
http://cgi.ebay.com/CH-3PST-pn-9134...ryZ78205QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I now use several relays in my light/solenoid circuits to prevent this. The flasher unit is one other device that needs all the help it can get (= external relay).