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Cooking on the H45 Heater

Wildchild467

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It has been getting pretty cool out lately and it has been nice to start up my H45 and sit by it out in my driveway. I have a mix of about 50% UMO and 50% diesel for fuel. It feels like I am camping when I have the heater going, so I decided to do a little cooking. I made some Craft Mac and Cheese on it and it turned out very good! It took a while to get the water to boil, but it worked good and was fun to do.

Side note: I painted the heater a while back with some high temp paint. The paint said it was rated for 2000 degrees and it did hold up very well. I used the high heat primer and then then paint. It took the whole can of paint to paint it, so it worked out very well. When I fired the heater up and had it cooking, the area around the stack was glowing a little bit and still the paint held up well. Not bad.

20140912_221852.jpg
 

Wildchild467

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I just painted mine yesterday and was hoping to fire it up next weekend. Perfect timing with this thread. What setting did you have the regulator set on?

Bert
I have mine set on the "diesel" setting and then on number 2 or 3. If you turn it all the way up, it will get the top of the stove glowing. My stove pipe came in today that I ordered almost 2 months ago... so that will be nice to have. a 4 or 5 foot stove pipe is needed for proper draft.

What fuel are you using for yours? If you use WMO, make sure it is filtered. Also since it is getting colder out, it would not hurt to have some diesel mixed in to help it flow.
 

T. Highway

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Tom,

I run Diesel fuel only. I got 5 sections of stove pipe and rain cap with the unit when I bought it. I want to use it to heat my SICUP / MCP tent this fall and I bet this will be more heat then I will ever need. I have the tent wall liners and floor also.

I want to put a pyrometer probe under the base of the heater to check just how hot it gets. I need to know how much space I need between the heater base and my vinyl floor to keep it from melting.

Bert
 
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Wildchild467

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Milford / Michigan
Tom,

I run Diesel fuel only. I got 5 sections of stove pipe and rain cap with the unit when I bought it. I want to use it to heat my SICUP / MCP tent this fall and I bet this will be more heat then I will ever need. I have the tent wall liners and floor also.

I want to put a pyrometer probe under the base of the heater to check just how hot it gets. I need to know how much space I need between the heater base and my vinyl floor to keep it from melting.

Bert
I do not have any experience with putting these heaters in tents, but the bottom portion of the stove does not get that hot. I would still put something under it though. Maybe a thick wood pallet with a piece of sheet metal on top of that? My best advise is to assemble the heater and fire it up in your driveway so you can get familiar with the operation of the heater in a safe environment.

Obviously in your case, use the diesel fuel setting on the fuel metering assembly. I used diesel in mine when I first got it and from my experience, it starts getting real hot after #5 on the setting. Start off on the lowest setting and go up from there. It is not instantly hotter when you adjust the temperature knob... it does take 5 minutes or so to notice it getting hotter.

Post some pictures of your temperature gauge you are going to put on yours. I would be interested to see that.
 

T. Highway

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Tom,

I will not be attaching the temperature probe permanently, I will just hook up my Fluke 179 during testing as a safety precaution. I was thinking of using a small shallow drain pan full of sand to keep from burning a hole in the tent floor.
That is sound advice testing the unit in the driveway prior to actual use in the tent.

Bert
 

Flyingvan911

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We use the wood burning version at East Wind in March. At 20-30 degrees (outside) they will keep a small MGPTS tent nice and toasty. I imagine the diesel will do the same.
 

Wildchild467

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Milford / Michigan
We use the wood burning version at East Wind in March. At 20-30 degrees (outside) they will keep a small MGPTS tent nice and toasty. I imagine the diesel will do the same.
How exactly does the wood burning one differ from the fuel fired one? They look the same in the manual but must have another part that adapts it to wood some how. Do you have some pictures of this wood burning one? Thank you!
 

Flyingvan911

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I can put up some pics later today. The wood version has a grate and a shaker handle. We find they are best when the stove glows slightly red in the dark. The diesel version should be just as good as the wood version. The diesel are a little easier since you don't have to cut wood. The diesel also last for quite a while on a 5 gallon jerry can.
 
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T. Highway

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S.E. WI & S.E. TN, USA - Earth
Tom,

I just noticed that your heater top half doesn't have the second dimple like mine does. My stove has an imprint for a warming area and the door with a window. I will snap a photo this weekend.

Bert
 

74M35A2

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Location
Livonia, MI
I have mine set on the "diesel" setting and then on number 2 or 3. If you turn it all the way up, it will get the top of the stove glowing. My stove pipe came in today that I ordered almost 2 months ago... so that will be nice to have. a 4 or 5 foot stove pipe is needed for proper draft.

What fuel are you using for yours? If you use WMO, make sure it is filtered. Also since it is getting colder out, it would not hurt to have some diesel mixed in to help it flow.
When do I get my $100 4" stainless exhaust pipe back that you now turned purple?
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
332
83
Location
Livonia, MI
I do not have any experience with putting these heaters in tents, but the bottom portion of the stove does not get that hot. I would still put something under it though. Maybe a thick wood pallet with a piece of sheet metal on top of that? My best advise is to assemble the heater and fire it up in your driveway so you can get familiar with the operation of the heater in a safe environment.

Obviously in your case, use the diesel fuel setting on the fuel metering assembly. I used diesel in mine when I first got it and from my experience, it starts getting real hot after #5 on the setting. Start off on the lowest setting and go up from there. It is not instantly hotter when you adjust the temperature knob... it does take 5 minutes or so to notice it getting hotter.

Post some pictures of your temperature gauge you are going to put on yours. I would be interested to see that.
Setting something hot onto something flammable is not advised. Should use a sand base, or at least a piece of ceramic board from your local home improvement store. Thanks again for lunch today. No hot peppers next time. :not worthy:
 
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RangerBob

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NM/NH/AK

RangerBob

Member
699
11
18
Location
NM/NH/AK
Not about cooking...

I have two of these H-45 heaters now and have been looking for a solid fuel conversion kit (or simply a grate). I have found one retailer that includes a beautiful adapter ring and grate with the heater, but will not sell them separately! Makes no sense (and no dollars for them!). aua

http://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/us-military-dual-fuel-stove-amp-heater?a=1545208

582586a3_ts.jpg

Anyone know where I can find such a thing, or even the original adapter ring and grate from a 'Type I'? I am prepared to kludge something with a barbeque grill and muffler tape if I must :mrgreen:, but a ready-made drop-in would be nice... if it could be had for less than I paid for the heater!!
 

Guyfang

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Gents, a reminder. I have been in army tents twice that caught fire because we over loaded the heater with fuel. Both liquid and wood/coal. I would NEVER go to sleep with these heaters roaring along. They DO make nice heat. I spent a week in a tent on mount Rainier, Washington with both the Yukon and H-45. Both were super good.

I was in an Army surplus store in Utah, outside of the city of ROY, Utah. It was called Willie's or something like that. They had a pile of the ring adapters. Look up surplus stores in Roy Utah.
 
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