Coolant filter in CUCV

[m38inmaine]

I would like to install a coolant filter in my M1031. Would like to know if anyone can confirm the direction of coolant flow so I can plumb the filter through the heater hoses. I have flushed untill no tomorrow, used flush treatments and it is still not as clean as I would like it. Thanks.

 

[dieselpony]

copied from the . . .20 manual:

Walter

 

[dabtl]

Use the filter with the SCA additives when you install the filter. You will not be sorry.

 

[84cucv1ton]

whats sca additives?

 

[dabtl]

Special Coolant Additives, for diesel engines. Prevents cavitation and other bad things.

 

[Wolf.Dose]

If you have cooling problems a cooland filter will not realy help. The problem is a partly cloged radiator. Try to get a new one (which not realy will make happy due to the age of them). The better choise is to get the old one completely rebuilt at a radiator shop.
To my experiance that helps.
Wolf

 

[m38inmaine]

No overheating issues, just dirty coolant. Thank you for the diagram.

 

[Wolf.Dose]

Hey,
problem is known! Your truck has a replacement engine. The conservation matierial inside the engine makes the coolant look like dirty. I have the same problem with a 1984 built engine, which I bought in 1996 new out of the box (it was still in there) and fixed to my Kaiser Jeep M715 in 2003/2004.
The dirt is related simply to the conservation material.
Replace your coolant /antifresse mixture any 2 - 3 years, flusch 2 times with water with the engine running after refilling and worm up and time by time the "dirt" will be a little less.
The dirt in German is "Schwarzschimmel" which according to my dictionary is black grey house / mould/ mustiness (Sorry, it is a hundred years old).
Anyway, it is not very healthy. But it has basically no real influance on the coolin performance.
Wolf from Germany

 

[hobie237]

I can't see any time in which a coolant filter would be of benefit. So long as the system is regularly flushed (I do all my vehicles annually, although that's overkill) and all the parts are in good working order, there should be nothing to filter out. If the coolant gets dirty, it's time to a) change it and flush the system and/or b) figure out what's wrong.

 

[Wolf.Dose]

Your MIATA is in britsh racing green with light broun leather seats? The only fitting color to my opinion. By the year it should be a NA. I was involved in the homologation of this car (always was to small for me).
Wolf from Germany, in 1990 in Japan

 

[hobie237]

British Racing Green was only an option in 1991 and 2001 in the states. My current Miata is Blue, I had a red one for 3 years, but sold it after getting the current blue one.

 

[Wolf.Dose]

In Japan British racing green was always the first choise and available from the SOP. Anyway, the old Miatas start to get some value if in aceptable condition.
Wolf

 

[hobie237]

I've seen lower-mileage examples of early cars selling in the $15-20,000 range, and by "lower mileage" I mean "basically never driven." Pointless in my opinion, I'd rather just drive the car.

My current car I bought from the original owner about a year ago. It's got 165,000 miles on the car, about 10,000 on a '93-spec crate motor installed a couple years ago, '94M wheels, and an 8-9psi variable vane turbo that will outrun a 5.0 Mustang.

 

[Wolf.Dose]

I do not want you to park your Miata. Use it, drive it and have fun with it. Today you can enjoy the car. In 20 years you may be not anymore (or make ist 30 or 40 if you like) able do do so.
My opinion about the value just was a general statement and did not mean to keep the car in the garage.
I drive my M715 and the Mitsubishi J24KAI to the MVs. Some do it on a trailer to protect their MVs. But than they missuse their old iron off road. I prefer to go 500 km (300 miles) and back home to a meeting without damage than to fight 3 hour during a MV off road and trail my trucks back and repair them for ten or twenty hours.
I do not want to win a beauty concourse. Howerver I want to be shure that my trucks will be reliable!
Wolf

 

[AFC1]

I installed a twin coolant filter setup on my M1008 and it works sweet. Sectioned the larger (3/4) heater hose IN coming from heater box and OUT going to radiator port. Used FLEETGUARD part number #215617S. Mounted the filter head to the side of the passenger fender. Works great- you will not be disappointed!

 

[Somemedic]

I will be purchasing a NOS radiator in the 1009 and wanted to see what other folks had done. While I agree to a point that
a coolant filter is 6 of one/ half a dozen of the other when it comes to changing the antifreeze I'd like to see this next
radiator last a very long time. Going to a parts house will only net you a Chineese based radiator anymore which is in my
estimation, inferior at best.

A new, better made radiator in conjunction with a cooler filter and regular flushing intervals should set someone up with a
longer lasting and durable cooling system. I would also think that the flushing intervals would be extended to a degree. Not
sure that there wouldn't be SOME benefits.

 

[3dubs]

Find a radiator repair shop! they may even have on i stock for you. I had to replace the one in my wife's car with the oil cooler and trans cooler built in. Auto parts store over $200. Found a radiator repair shop and got one for around $70. If they do noot have one like yours they can fix it better than the Chinese stuff. They boil it out, much better than a flush. Preasure test it, fix any leaks. Then paint it to look new. When you buy a rebuilt one from a store they get it from a shop. The cheap ones with the plastic caps are different. Unless you have been in a wreck a shop can make it like new.

 

[Somemedic]

I dig it...

The cheapest recomended guy in the area said it needs to be soldered in 4 areas which he said was no big deal. $75 just to get started, maybe $125 for a complete job but said he could only guarentee it for like 90 days. He showed me where the cracks were and talked with me about 45min. Even looked up the AZone chineese cheapies for me saying they were $350 but were made not nearly as heavy duty as the one I had in my hand. I dont mind paying for a good radiator but the ones on Summits website are usually as much as $700.

I have a line on one thats NOS in my price range. The radiator isnt so much the issue here for the thread as the cooler filter was what I wanted to find more info on. NAPA sells a filter head kit minus the screw on filter for $46 that I was looking at. More thoughts on this would be welcomed. Will probably put one on the deuce as well.