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Coolant heater hose location

XchaosX

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I know the coolant heater is suppose to be installed how it is showed in pic 1 but both my trucks are installed like pic 2 and 3. Does it make much difference? I haven't had a chance to use the heater in either truck. Plus I want run a tee off both for coolant filters. I tried removing the bottom plug down by the water pump and it was a no go.
attachment-9.jpeg2014-06-03 19.08.19.jpg2014-06-03 15.13.37.jpg
 

doghead

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Yes, it makes a difference.
 

frank8003

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OK
As in picture 2+3 heater hose connections are deemed incorrect for a heater hookup
as that bypasses the thermostat then would it be a good place for just a coolant filter
since it bypasses the thermostat? This is for a no heater truck.
 

frank8003

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Coolant heater/filter hose location

I did read all I could find in SS (Thank You All) about coolant filters. After seeing the pictures of filters cut open, I decided this truck needs that.
I am using spin on oil filters. In 10 hours I will change it and cut it open to see what got removed. It now has 5/8" lines in and out. Florida truck W/O heater.
Pictures for the General are not in order.
 

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rustystud

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I know the coolant heater is suppose to be installed how it is showed in pic 1 but both my trucks are installed like pic 2 and 3. Does it make much difference? I haven't had a chance to use the heater in either truck. Plus I want run a tee off both for coolant filters. I tried removing the bottom plug down by the water pump and it was a no go.
View attachment 497018View attachment 497021View attachment 497024
The heater or coolant filter will work as your pictures show, but they will not work well. The best position is as the PS mag shows, the lower plug on the water pump. My truck came with the heater installed like yours, but it never really got hot enough. After researching it I found the lower hole on the pump pulls more suction then the upper one .
You should replace that filter with a coolant filter. The filter media is different between oil and coolant filters.
 
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frank8003

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Post #5 pictures is a TransDapt 1028 base because it uses 3/4"-16P spin on oil filters. Fittings from Zorro. Coolant filters use 11/16"-16P and are more expensive, and I need no additives anyhow.
Truck original was 5/8" valve out to the heater and 1/2" back into the water pump.
I put new water pump inlet valve in 5/8" (just above generator) which gives me 5/8" lines in and out of the filter head which has 1/2" in and out connections.
It has a Mobil 1 EP 301 synthetic fiber blend (no cardboard paper) filter on it now that I got for a buck.
The cooling system is in very, very good condition, so 5 or 10 engine hours and I will change it out.
I must find a filter with NO differential bypass, I want it to plug up if it should.
No need to filter coolant more as it could remove necessary components of the coolant!
Now next week I get to go someplace for hours just so I can change the filter and cut it open to see.................
 

frank8003

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The big deal with this was getting the engine stop valves to work. I can change out the filter head/filter easy now. I almost had to take the front of the truck apart to get the water pump valve changed without damage to the generator. My first rule is don't break stuff and disable the truck. I do appreciate all comments and re-directions of the SS members and positive and negative criticism, I still learn.
Santa brought me the filter head so I wanted to show Her that I used it, I just want to drive the truck, same as when I was 18.

As for filters for fuel, lube, coolants I just wish I could have had that Kaydon Turbo-Toc they junked. Now that was a filter!
 
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