Coolant in oil help plz

[2INSANE]

So I picked up a low mile 6.2 J code and replaced every single gasket on it and did a bunch of upgrades.

Since I put the motor in it has been eating Coolant very very slowly. No coolant on the ground. It is going into the oil. The oil is not creamy. It is a very dark dark green color when you spread it on a white paper towel.

I did a pressure test on the system and it loses about 1 psi every 3 minutes.

Other then a head gasket what could be the other reason why it’s eating coolant into the oil?

Could a timing cover be leaking internally?

 

[sneekyeye]

Crack in the head, surface imperfections in the block or head mounting surface. Crack in the block somewhere.

 

[2INSANE]

I found the source. The upgraded ARP Head Studs are leaking threw the threads. I did everything right. Cleaned the threads multiple times. Used the ARP thread sealer and torqued the nuts in sequence with Molly Lube to spec.

 

[Rutjes]

Maybe this write-up will help you.

 

[cucvrus]

I found the source. The upgraded ARP Head Studs are leaking threw the threads. I did everything right. Cleaned the threads multiple times. Used the ARP thread sealer and torqued the nuts in sequence with Molly Lube to spec.

I removed 2 sets of them studs from Ford diesels 1 from a 7.3 and the other from a 6.9. Both were leaking the same way. Both guys said they followed the instructions to the T. I replaced the studs with good old Fel Pro bolts. They never failed me yet. Sometimes I sit back and think how much easier it is to just stick to the design plans. Many of the mods that are done always cost more and cause another issue that needs addressed. Good Luck. But good old torque to yield bolts are always the best option. I mean a CUCV has 140 HP. I doubt putting studs on is going to make an improvement when they are already 35+ years old and the head bolts on many are still the original. Be Safe and Have a Great Day.

 

[cruzer747]

I have had great success with permatex high temp thread sealant. Also the activator (pricey) applied to the threads before hand helps. I have heard similar feedback about the arp sealer.

 

[cucvmule]

I have used permatex no.2 for over 40 years on every head bolt or stud I have ever removed and or replaced. I have never had one leak.

Even when using ARP on my HP engines I use permatex no.2.

I am sure that there is other newer sealants but why change what works.

 

[cucvmule]

Maybe this write-up will help you.

I just want to say Rutjes that it is great when someone posts useful information without having to write blocks of paragraphs.

Also the library of information here on the site is very useful as well. That is what brings me here to SS time and again, knowledge.

 

[cucvrus]

That's another great thing about Felpro torque to yield bolts. They have the sealer built right in at the under flange hex head and on the threads. Takes the guess work out of how much or how little do I need to use. The 1/4 turn after torqued has always been my puzzling point. I guess that is the strench and tight part of torque to yield. Thank you. Be Safe.