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Cooling fan issue..... maybe?

topdrivejesus

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Magnolia, TX
I have read in some threads that the fan clutch should engage at around 220f and release around 208f. I've had my M998 for about 6months now and I've noticed that my cooling fan comes on at around 190f on the gauge, and stays on after that(even in cool weather at medium hwy speeds). The temp can drop at times to 170f to 185f on the gauge, but still the fan doesn't shut off. Is this normal or should it cycle with the operating temperatures that I'm seeing?
 

ryanruck

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Cincinnati, OH
I'd verify the temperatures you're seeing are correct. These temp gauges can certainly be off but, the fan should definitely be cycling on and off, not running continuously.

I would run through the troubleshooting flow chart in TM 9-2320-280-20-1 for the cooling system. It is section 2-164, page 248/890. It will give you testing procedures for the various components of the cooling fan system.
 

topdrivejesus

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Thanks for the reference to the tech manual. I will download and research this today. I'm thinking it may just be a dirty cooling pack, or possibly airflow issues. I'll know more once I complete the troubleshooting steps for the fan and clutch system.
 

topdrivejesus

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Magnolia, TX
Ok, so I went through all of the troubleshooting flow charts in the TM and my fan/clutch system is functioning as designed. I then decided to drain/flush the cooling system. I tested the coolant that came out and it was almost pure antifreeze. After a few drain and fills with water running to operating temp each time I got most of it out. The last straight water flush I ran distilled water to displace the tap water I had been using, and ran it for a day. Bingo. The fan cycled as it was supposed to while driving at highway speeds(50mph). I then drained and refilled with 50/50 antifreeze mix. Here's where it gets weird. After putting antifreeeze back in it the symptoms returned. Engine heats up normally, but after the fan kicks on the first time it never cools the engine quite enough to cycle off. Btw, neither the original coolant nor the water I ran through it had very much contamination when drained. And in case anyone is wondering I captured and bottled up all of the old coolant to dispose of at my friendly neighborhood auto parts.
 

Bighorn

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Ok, so I went through all of the troubleshooting flow charts in the TM and my fan/clutch system is functioning as designed. I then decided to drain/flush the cooling system. I tested the coolant that came out and it was almost pure antifreeze. After a few drain and fills with water running to operating temp each time I got most of it out. The last straight water flush I ran distilled water to displace the tap water I had been using, and ran it for a day. Bingo. The fan cycled as it was supposed to while driving at highway speeds(50mph). I then drained and refilled with 50/50 antifreeze mix. Here's where it gets weird. After putting antifreeeze back in it the symptoms returned. Engine heats up normally, but after the fan kicks on the first time it never cools the engine quite enough to cycle off. Btw, neither the original coolant nor the water I ran through it had very much contamination when drained. And in case anyone is wondering I captured and bottled up all of the old coolant to dispose of at my friendly neighborhood auto parts.
Maybe it is normal.
But there is the possibility your radiator is not quite doing it's job.
Have you had it cleaned professionally at any time?
Why I ask is that straight water is the most effective coolant.
Adding antifreeze actually makes the system less effective at cooling.
Of course we must run antifreeze.
I am thinking you may have a partially restricted radiator or weak thermostat or both that is causing your engine to stay warmer than normal which is causing the issues with the fan coupler.

Or maybe there is nothing wrong.
I would start by getting a temperature reading from a second device.
Check before and after the thermostat and at the entrance and exit of the radiator.
If that radiator is at all questionable it might be a good time to get it checked out.
 

Bulldogger

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Quantico VA
Definitely replace the thermostat if you haven't. They are cheap and you can buy the Stant one at the auto parts store, just get the right temperature for your model HHMWV per the manual. Mine is a 215F model, if I recall correctly. If the Tstat doesn't change the performance of the cooling fan, you could consider a new temperature sensor and/or gauge. If the sensor is off, it's not sending the right data to the control for the Cadillac valve.
Best of luck,
Bulldogger
 

gcbennet

Member
221
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Location
Trenton, ON
These are old machines and there's crud buildup throughout the entire cooling system, including the heater core. As well, pull the rad stack apart and clean away all of the sticks and leaves that get trapped in there. I used a cooling system cleaner/conditioner from a local auto parts store and all sorts of crap came out. I also had my rad done at a local business and my temps stay in the normal range now.
 

ryanruck

Active member
427
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28
Location
Cincinnati, OH
These are old machines and there's crud buildup throughout the entire cooling system, including the heater core. As well, pull the rad stack apart and clean away all of the sticks and leaves that get trapped in there. I used a cooling system cleaner/conditioner from a local auto parts store and all sorts of crap came out. I also had my rad done at a local business and my temps stay in the normal range now.
This is a good idea. I've had good experiences with using CLR to flush cooling systems and it will remove all sorts of junk. Most recently on an '06 Caddy CTS that wasn't putting out any heat because of a clogged heater core. Added the CLR, ran it up to temp for 15 minutes with the heat on full, let it sit for an hour, ran it some more, then flushed it very thoroughly. Can't emphasize enough how important it is to flush all the CLR out though!
 
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